1935 chevy sedan straight 6. what tranny will bolt up?

[93blazer4dr]

I have a 1935 chevy straight 6 with the factory tranny and im wondering if I will need to install a newer tranny.

far as I know its all factory, im not sure what size straight 6 It has or the tranny size. here is a pic of the motor and ill get one of the tranny. when it was running before the starter went out it would run smooth and shift very well(its a 3speed). its all mechanical, no hydro clutch just a rod going in the side of the tanny.


guess my main question is....would it be safe to keep this tranny after I have it checked out and would it be safe to drive on interstate roads around 55-60mph??

 

[93blazer4dr]

also will a s10 rear end fit under the car??? im thinking it will or should be very close but im 100% you guys know more about this then me haha.

thanks for the help in advance.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

I would think thats a 216 with babbit inserts , not positive . but I did bolt a 1972 chevy 327 strait up to a 49 chevy trans that was bolted to a 216 ? I dont think they changed ,, but I have been wrong before I also have a 79 camaro rear end under my 31 chevy truck , and it does not stick out to far .

 

[93blazer4dr]

what is babbitt inserts?? I think your correct on it being a 216.
thanks for the fast reply

I know its a 194 cubic inch and she does purr I just need to get a starter for it or fix the one on it and I need to find out about the tranny. I know it works good but I want to find out if anyone still runs one and how good or bad they are?? im not building a drag car so im not worried about racing haha.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

what is babbitt inserts??

Babbitt from Wiki:

Until the mid-1950s, poured Babbitt bearings were common in automotive applications. The Babbitt was poured into the block or caps using a form. Tin-based Babbitts were used as they could stand up to the impact loads found on the connecting rods and crankshaft. The poured Babbitt bearings were kept thin. The rods and caps would have shims that could be peeled off as the Babbitt wore. Ford was known to use two .002" on each cap and Babbitt that was 86% tin, 7% copper, 7% antimony (see the KRW catalogs for the Model T). Steel shims were used as the brass shims used today tend to compress over time contributing to shorter bearing life. The poured Babbitt bearings commonly get over 50,000 miles of use before needing replacement.

In more modern practice, the crankshaft and connecting rod big end bearings in a modern automobile engine are made of a replaceable steel shell, keyed to the bearing caps. The inner surface of the steel shell is plated with a coating of bronze which is in turn coated with a thin layer of Babbitt metal as the bearing surface.

The 194 and/or 216 will not accept the common chevy bellhousing, though I understand some 4-speed trucks used the larger pattern as Yankee discovered.

I'd run the trans you have, if it works properly. (You're dealing with 50hp so reliability shouldn't be an issue.)

Measure your rear axle from WMS to WMS and take it from there. You'll want to know the ratio versus the original so you don't spin the 194 too quick.

.

 

[JBailey]

I would think you'll have to change the transmission as I don't think there's a way to hook the torque tube up to and open drive rear axle. Also originally that engine/drivetrain was not designed to do those speeds. Just my opinion.

 

[93blazer4dr]

thanks again for the fast reply. I know this isn't made to do 50mph but I can upgrade the motor to help it out and make it cruse at 50mph without a problem. ill go ahead and use the tranny as it is very solid and from what I can see it might have been re-done at one time along with the motor as it looks very clean and it runs very smooth and it was being drove everyday all the way upto 2011 and was told it was parked to restore and it never happened and that's how I got it.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

thanks again for the fast reply. I know this isn't made to do 50mph but I can upgrade the motor to help it out and make it cruse at 50mph without a problem. ill go ahead and use the tranny as it is very solid and from what I can see it might have been re-done at one time along with the motor as it looks very clean and it runs very smooth and it was being drove everyday all the way upto 2011 and was told it was parked to restore and it never happened and that's how I got it.

My 327 that I put in mine did not help the speed .. thats going to be the trans and rear-end .. I bolted mine up to the original 3 speed and about 45 to 50 the engine was reving up past cruise .... My column shifter was worn out so , I put a floor shifter in and the gears were backwords for some reason I didnt have the room to make it right so thats the way I drove it . (shifter arms were on upside down and no room to turn them over ) Also the U-jount in that tube is very small. If I remember right two of the bell housing bolts go in from the inside (I think)

 

[93blazer4dr]

thanks for the info. i'll try it with the original trans and ill be changing the rear end out and ill see how well it works and if anything I can upgrade the trans, im not building a hot rod, just something to ride around in and then ill be selling it but I wont cut corners. if its not safe for me then its not leaving my hands until its safe, that's just how I am.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

Like JBailey said the trans has to stay with the rear end they are not compatible with the open shaft rear end. the rear 's tube is welded to the rear end ,, cant separate .. But if you get it going and ride a little wile , you may not want to change it