1936 DiamondT meets 1978 Dodge motorhome

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Getting titled can be more stressful that actually building the hot rod. Nice to see it all worked out the way you wanted.
 
plate

assigning the plate was simple, I just took it in with me when I hauled the ratrod up to the dmv. When they filled out the paperwork, I told them I wanted the plate on it.
it has lifetime registration. no stickers.

I am very excited to get it on the road. Getting all the loose ends tied up this weekend. Should be able to get insurance this week.
 
frustration level rising

Ugh.
can't get the brakes working right. spongy pedal.
questioning the master cylinder. or the adjustable proportioning valve?

I used a master cylinder from Speedway. residual valves on the front(2psi) and rear (10psi) and a adjustable prop. valve on the rear.
I am running the unmolested 1978 Dodge motorhome brakes.

Very frustrated- I've bled the brakes 4x over. and the pedal is still soft. I'm suspecting either an air lock in the adjustable proportioning valve. ??
or a problem with the master cylinder. I'm thinking I may need to replace it. ??

it's new, but I could have messed it up installing it.


AND, the electric fan is not working. It turns on usually for a few seconds and then shuts off. I have it on a fuse. 20 amp i think. it's not blowing the fuse. Maybe a loose connection. the ground is solid.

Oh, and it won't start now. :(:(
Anyone want to buy a nearly done rat rod??:mad::mad:
 
Well crap

It's probably your suspicious air lock. Low systems light these can be very difficult to blead.

Sart by bleading at each joint closest to the master. Did you bench bleed it? Bleed at both sides of the residual valves and proportioning valve.

How do the rubber lines look? Do they bulge at all when you pump the pedal?

Go slow and if you need a hand let me know. I could stop by before here weekend.

Kurt
 
I know this will sound crazy but.....

did you make sure you were adjusting the manual proportioning valve correctly?? Friend of mine had his adjusted too much to the front and the pedal was really low and soft....cranked in the backs and the pedal felt normal.....Just a thought.....
 
closed and nearly closed the proportioning valve doesn't seem to make a difference.

I am going to bench bleed the master now. I've got a couple lines that I can thread into the bottom of the master and they are bent around to empty into the reservoir. I'm hoping that takes care of it.:(
 
pulled one of the drums. the shoes look nearly new. the slave cylinders looked fine. I don't think that was the problem.
So, I re bled the master and got no bubbles, so it doesn't seem like that was the problem either.

I'm thinking that there is an air bubble/pocket stuck somewhere in my system.

I'll try breaking apart more of the joints and bleeding more, then I'll limp down to my local mechanic and see if he can get it for me. ??

[S[S
 
master

is the master cylinder below the bleeder valves on the axles? is so you may need to install a one-way in line check valve or sometime called a brake residual valve.

l had this problem on my roadster when the master was under the floor and sat real low, put these in and re-bled the system and it was fine after that.

2 lbs for discs/1O for drums

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search.html?query=-+Wilwood+Residual+Pressure+Valve+-10psi

Later :cool:
 
I'm thinking that the master cylinder you are using does not have the capacity to operate your wheel cylinders properly. It looks like the average GM style disc/drum master which may not move enough fluid per stroke. Do you still have the master from the motorhome? Even though it was probably meant to work with a power booster I think you'll find it has a larger bore size. Shouldn't be too hard to adapt to your pedal assembly, worth a shot.
 
skull,
Yes, I do have the residual valves on the front and rear.

ZZrodder,
you may be right about the master from the motorhome being a larger bore. the overall size of the master looked the same, but the bore may have been larger. I'm pretty sure it's been scrapped:( but I'll take a look in my shop.

I'm now thinking that my pushrod may not be adjusted properly on the master.
I'll take a look at adjusting that and see if that helps.
I may need to figure out a larger bore master for it if that doesn't work.

thanks for the suggestions!! I couldn't have done this build without this community.:)
 
Finally got the brakes working.
I had mistakenly run the lines from the master to the wrong ends. (flipped back for front:( )
Now that it's straightened out, i got the lines bled (again) and it works well.

I went ahead and got insurance lined up for Saturday.

first test run then. I'm pumped. I've had it running around the driveway, but not on the road yet. I'm pretty excited. :p:p
 

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simple

sometimes the simple things are the easiest to mess up, and when ya do it drive ya nuts, then ya find it and go D'0H.

l have done messed up some simple things too, so don't feel bad, it happens, glad ya got it fixed. :D

Later :cool:
 
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Good work on getting that straightened out MM.
Fun in the sun now! Camera phones poppin', thumbs up and miles of smiles! :)
 
As woke

This great news! Now you'll have more credibility when you pull up to someone's junk pile looking for your next project! [cl[cl[cl

Kurt
 
I drove it on the road for the first time!!! It went well. No problems. Steering was about what I expected for a motorhome chassis converted to a ratrod. Brakes were good. Gotta play with the proportioning valve, I think the rear brakes are not doing enough, the front brakes locked in the gravel and the rear didn't.
 

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