1940 Plymouth Truck
- Thread starter bob w
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
I got these seats off of Craigslist for $50.00. They're out of an Infinity and have power everything including heaters. If this is going to be a daily driver, I need comfort.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
There's rust to repair around the front cab mounts and the foot board. For a Minnesota truck this is a remarkably small amount of rust.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
I dug through my pile'o'stuff and found this tilt column. It must be a Trans Am unit because it takes a euro-type steering wheel that attaches with about nine small bolts.[S I checked eBay & those steering wheels are expensive.
I have a leather wheel I put in an Isuzu pickup years ago & I can make it fit the column.The rear end, springs, etc are supposed to be ready to pick up at the junkyard tomorrow.
Gastrick
One of the Dirty Dozen!
Bob W, don't make that thing too cushy. You'll fall asleep in there....and where's the monthly toon been?[S
....and where's the monthly toon been?[Spushrod249
Well-known member
40
love watching you work
love watching you work
dmw56
Busted and Rusted on Route 66
Nice looking seats. The one's in my Stude are from a 03 Trailblazer 6 way power and heat. You've got the right idea!
I got the back half of the S10 Blazer and it took a full day to take it all apart. The frame had too many whoop-d-do's to it to be spliced to the Plymouth frame. The Blazer springs have about 3" less free arch than the S10 truck springs. They are 2 leaf plus a helper leaf whereas the truck springs are 3 leaf plus a helper. I wasn't sure if the Blazer springs would be stiff enough, so, assuming my daily driver S10 truck was about the same weight as the Plymouth, I jacked up the rear and stuck the Blazer spring under the tires. I was able to measure the amount the springs compressed under the load. Looks like the Blazer springs are strong enough. And, with the lesser arch, I can get the Plymouth lower in back without blocks. Curiously, my S10, which has Extreme suspension has 2 leaf springs with a helper. Almost identical to the Blazer springs except for a beefier helper leaf.
The frame brackets from the Blazer (left foreground) will mount nicely to the side of the Plymouth frame. It took a day to build cantilevered rear shackle mounts (not pictured).
I take a cholesterol medicine that is known to cause muscle problems. In the last 2 weeks I've strained my back and then my shoulder. So I've lost about a week of work. Seem to be healing well now so over the weekend the Plymouth should become a roller.
Gastrick, the reason for no more monthly cartoons is I lost them all when my previous computer crashed. I'm a lousy artist and even the simplest cartoon takes a lot of effort. Also, I haven't had any good cartoon ideas lately. Anyhow, I'd rather be welding.
Shea Laking
Well-known member
I dug through my pile'o'stuff and found this tilt column. It must be a Trans Am unit because it takes a euro-type steering wheel that attaches with about nine small bolts.[S I checked eBay & those steering wheels are expensive.
The rear end, springs, etc are supposed to be ready to pick up at the junkyard tomorrow.
Psst...hey Bob....
That little adapter with the nine or so holes in it will come right off. Look down in the center and remove the triangle clip and BIG center nut off the top of the steering shaft-then put your steering wheel puller on there, a few cranks and voila, off comes the adapter. Then, you can bolt on any old GM wheel (or adapter thereof) that you want.
Truck's lookin' good, BTW. Now go lay down and relax those muscles!
Regards,
Shea
Shea Laking
Well-known member
I got the back half of the S10 Blazer and it took a full day to take it all apart. The frame had too many whoop-d-do's to it to be spliced to the Plymouth frame. The Blazer springs have about 3" less free arch than the S10 truck springs. They are 2 leaf plus a helper leaf whereas the truck springs are 3 leaf plus a helper. I wasn't sure if the Blazer springs would be stiff enough, so, assuming my daily driver S10 truck was about the same weight as the Plymouth, I jacked up the rear and stuck the Blazer spring under the tires. I was able to measure the amount the springs compressed under the load. Looks like the Blazer springs are strong enough. And, with the lesser arch, I can get the Plymouth lower in back without blocks. Curiously, my S10, which has Extreme suspension has 2 leaf springs with a helper. Almost identical to the Blazer springs except for a beefier helper leaf.
The frame brackets from the Blazer (left foreground) will mount nicely to the side of the Plymouth frame. It took a day to build cantilevered rear shackle mounts (not pictured).
I take a cholesterol medicine that is known to cause muscle problems. In the last 2 weeks I've strained my back and then my shoulder. So I've lost about a week of work. Seem to be healing well now so over the weekend the Plymouth should become a roller.
Gastrick, the reason for no more monthly cartoons is I lost them all when my previous computer crashed. I'm a lousy artist and even the simplest cartoon takes a lot of effort. Also, I haven't had any good cartoon ideas lately. Anyhow, I'd rather be welding.
Since I'm just noticing it now..the Blazer/Jimmy leafs are lower than pickups
I'd always ass-u-me'd the Blazers were higher...4x4 and all.Anyway, how do the Blazer springs compare to pickups, in terms of overall length and location of the center bolts? Might be a good way to lower my truck, now that I think about it!
Thanks for any help you can offer. Blazers seem to be easier to come by than pickups in the boneyards around here, especially the "jellybean" style ones.
Regards,
Shea
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Well, it's up on all fours.
Shea, thanks for the tip on the steering column. I put both springs on the rear and the axle centerline changed about half an inch. So it looks like you could install the Blazer springs to lower a S-10 truck.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
The Blazer front spring mount worked out well. Just have to trim the top ears off a bit. It looks like a C-notch will be needed to get axle to frame clearance.
Last edited:
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
The rear shackle mount got a little complicated since it has to cantilever out instead of mounting under the frame. The wide stance of the springs should be good for stability. And, it still has 5 inches of backspace for the tires & wheels.
BigShem
Well-known member
looks great Bob i really dig it its comming out real nice....i think a c-notch is going to be needed just to be on the safe side....[cl
Shea Laking
Well-known member
Bob,
Lookin' GREAT
goose-em
Well-known member
Quick and easy....or so it looks on RRR.
Great work Bob, Happy Holidays to you and yorn.
Great work Bob, Happy Holidays to you and yorn.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Bob, I'm confused, how many projects are you working on? I have one project vehicle and stuff is spread out all over; I can't keep up. How do you manage all this at once?
This is a great project, as is the Crosley and the dragster. Thanks for showing us.
This is a great project, as is the Crosley and the dragster. Thanks for showing us.
dmw56
Busted and Rusted on Route 66
Don't worry, you'll have that C-notch knock out in probably about an hour! [
Lookiing good Bob!
Lookiing good Bob!
hotrod preacher
"Official RRR Chaplain"
hey this thing seems to be progressing FAST!....i was gonna share w/ya, Bob that i used s-10 springs on my 46 ford as well...and the spring-to-frame brackets and shackles came off of a 90-something ford f-150 --both the front and rear
on the rear mount, the ford style puts the bracket under the spring and works with the s-10 springs well...wish i had a pic...but i don't and i'm not gonna give you a 1000 words to explain....just look under a 80's-90's model ford truck you'll get it
like this build alot thanks for the pics and info[cl[cl
HRP
on the rear mount, the ford style puts the bracket under the spring and works with the s-10 springs well...wish i had a pic...but i don't and i'm not gonna give you a 1000 words to explain....just look under a 80's-90's model ford truck you'll get it
like this build alot thanks for the pics and info[cl[cl
HRP
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Who woulda thought I'd need to cut the firewall to put a V8 in where a straight six was? I needed clearance in front from the radiator support and also needed to make space for the steering shaft from the rack and pinion.
I'm currently working on this truck and reassembling the Crosley drag wagon. The head for the HAMB dragster is at the machine shop. Soon, I'll attempt porting it.
If the weather warms up, HRP, I'll look at the Ford spring brackets. The home made ones are just tacked in place, so they could be easily changed.
Once I get most of the weight on the truck I can figure out the amount of C notch needed. That's the theory anyway.
