1947 Mercury Build

[Lightspeed Mike]

What engine is it?

Earthman your correct!!

I wanted to do something different, sbc are a great engine but boring. When I started this build the price of gas was $1.35/litre or about $4.00 / gallon. Since I planned to drive it regularly I figured a fuel injected 4 cyl would do the job. I found a complete 91 Toyota pickup with a 22-RE engine and std trans for sale and scored it up for $150. It only ran if you poured some fuel into the intake. But it would run long enough for me to know it didn't rattle or smoke. I took out everything but the body and frame. I used the engine, trans, rearend, driveshaft (had it shortened) wiring harness, pedals, steering column etc.
It wasn't perfect but the price was right. I had to replace some gaskets, timing chain, clutch and a few other items but it was a good score to keep my budget intact.

 

[falconvan]

That 22R is one heck of an engine. I've seen those things with 300K+ miles and still running strong.

 

[Lightspeed Mike]

Front suspension

With the engine and trans in place it was time to make it a roller. I wanted a tube axle and 4 bar because I like the way they look and work. Speedway had a complete package for the build so I ordered it along with steering arms, brake kit etc.
I got my stuff a couple of days later and couldn't want to start piecing it together. I assembled the 4 bars and axle together only to find out that it was made for a 24" wide frame. My frame at the mounts was 27". So ordered up some straight rod ends and cut the 4 bars apart and welded them together straight instead of the 7 degree angle that speedway puts them together with. Made up some weld in bungs out of 1" barstock and cut some tie bars out. Figured out where everything should made it straight and square and welded them into place.
I then patted myself on the back and took some pictures. (Pic 1 shows the short front spring perch)
Only to find out that where I mounted the axle I couldn't put in the cross link for steering because it would hit the front cross member for the frame.
Now I had a couple of choices. Raise the ride height so the steering won't hit. (Not an option) or move the axle out a couple of inches. So I made a new spring perch and longer 4 bars, Checked to see the steering was now going to clear. (pic 2)
I scored a set of Pete and Jakes street rod shocks at a swap meet. Figured the easiest way to mount them was to drill out the upper 4 bar hole on the axle to 7/16" and use a longer bolt. So far so good. Measured out how far out and up the upper mount should be and keep drawing in CAD until I had something I liked and cut the pieces out of 3/8" plate. Tacked in to place and then cut out a matching one and leveled and squared it to the other one and welded them up. I haven't driven it yet so I don't know how much defection I will get on the shock bracket. If need be I will gusset it later.

 

[bob w]

Looks like all your modifications worked out great.

 

[Lightspeed Mike]

Time to throw the body on

Well now that it's almost rolling I figured the body should go on. I wanted to channel it to the bottom of the frame rails, anymore and the body would scrub before the frame and wreck my doors.
First pic is the body as I put it on and lined it up. It fit good, nicely between the kick ups almost like I measured it or something.
I saw that the whole floor had to go. I welded in some 1" X 1" bracing and cut out most of the floor. Made floor bracing out of 3/4" square steel tubing. Bent up a couple of hoops to make the trans tunnel. Tried to get them as tight around the trans as I could to maximize foot room. I found out when you channel a vehicle this low, wow does the driveline ever come up!!
With most of the bracing done I pulled the cab back off the frame and stood it on the firewall to get at the bottom and weld up the bracing. It will be a lot easier to cut out the rest of the floor now too.

 

[Lightspeed Mike]

More cab work

With the floor bracing in to where the body was going to sit on the frame I found a slight problem. The back of the cab is going to hit the frame rails.
I didn't want to just notch around them and I really wanted to keep the body line along the bottom. What to do , what to do?
I figured the solution was to move the back of the cab up a couple of inches. I started by drilling out all the spot welds along the bottom of the cab. (pic 1)
So far so good, so what it ain't done yet!
Drew some lines a couple of inches up and cut the panel off. (pic 2) Cut a couple of inches of sheet metal out of the back of the cab and butt welded the panel back on.
Made up some filler pieces for the sides and welded them in. Lining up the trans tunnel to the back of the cab I drew some more lines and cut out a piece from the back of the cab and gently rolled the edge over 90 degrees for a lip to weld the trans tunnel to. Time to fix a little rot in the bottom the cab while it's easy to get at, then I'll throw the body back on.