1948 Thriftmaster

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Buttoned up the muffler hangers and 3/8" steel fuel line today. I made up a heat shield for where the fuel line runs close to the muffler, just to be safe. I think I'm ready to drop the cab back onto the frame now!
 

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Thanks JD, and I'm sure looking forward to it! Busy with holiday stuff but managed to find a couple of hours to hook up my power steering hoses this morning. Wow was that ever a tight spot!
 

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Those power steering hoses can cause quite a wrestling match. The quality of you work is outstanding.
 
Thanks again guys. I buttoned up the tranny cooler lines, at the tranny, and made another heat shield where they pass the header. Installed the O2 sensors and bolted the cab on. It feels good to see it coming together, but it's a shame to cover up all my work too!
 

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Thanks guys - and to answer your question Doc, no I haven't completely solved the steering connection. I'm working on that right now, and it's going to be an interesting one. I'm trying not to modify those headers, but I may have to.
 
Thanks guys - and to answer your question Doc, no I haven't completely solved the steering connection. I'm working on that right now, and it's going to be an interesting one. I'm trying not to modify those headers, but I may have to.

Just hoping to help, if it helps you at all...

On our '37 coupe project, we mounted the small block as low and as far back as possible, which put the (ceramic coated) header tube in harm's way. [S

My solution was to recess the column 3", giving necessary clearance, acceptable joint angles and "work around" the header, though still quite tight and snuggly.

If you haven't discovered this already, Sweet Mfg. makes high quality (Made In USA) joints without Borgeson/Flaming River price and polish. I believe Speedway provided the joints we're using... regardless, they're excellent quality and saved some money where pretty polished SS isn't needed or required...

.
 

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Just hoping to help, if it helps you at all...

On our '37 coupe project, we mounted the small block as low and as far back as possible, which put the (ceramic coated) header tube in harm's way. [S

My solution was to recess the column 3", giving necessary clearance, acceptable joint angles and "work around" the header, though still quite tight and snuggly.

If you haven't discovered this already, Sweet Mfg. makes high quality (Made In USA) joints without Borgeson/Flaming River price and polish. I believe Speedway provided the joints we're using... regardless, they're excellent quality and saved some money where pretty polished SS isn't needed or required...

.

Thanks Doc! You've really done some engineering there! I mocked some stuff up this morning and think I just may get lucky - possibly even as lucky as 1 coupling and two standard U joints! (that's still a maybe, I think I'll order a couple of pieces and see how it goes). The inner fender doesn't look like it will get off so easy though.....LOL.
 
The one thing I've just noticed, that might work in my favour, is that the original steering column isn't centered between the gauges. It's probably 1/2" or so toward the center of the truck? If I center the new column, it'll give me some additional clearance away from the header, so I'll likely go that way.
 
Every little bit counts when you're short on space!

Some more babbling, if you don't mind... since we were cutting and modifying a column anyway, my tentative plan B was to offset or "Z" the column with a couple joints inside the tube. [S

.
 
Thanks guys. I'm making progress, ordered a pile of parts the other day so I have no excuses. LOL. I had to fab up a couple little brackets and mounted the gas pedal, and brake pedal/booster/master cylinder this morning. The steering column I want is on back order, so I dummied a piece of pipe in it's place to make sure I have adequate clearance. So far it all looks pretty good.
Now that the master cylinder is in place I can finish my brake lines and get everything bled.
 

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