GJunktionMike
Something's wrong with that boy!
If you are willing to go as far as removing the skin and try to make another one, try reworking the old one first with it off the inner frame.
1949 Ford bobber build
- Thread starter gold03
- Start date
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gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
You make a good point Mike. I will definitely keep that idea in mind. It might be tough to do. There is all that black sticky goop inside the door skin. I have that crap all over my tools now. Also the skin has been welded. That's hard on a E wheel. After some clean up and sanding this might be the ticket.
I did order a shrink disk. It can't hurt.... I think.
I did order a shrink disk. It can't hurt.... I think.
Kasselyn29
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2011
- Messages
- 190
Nice build as soon as I get more time I will read it all. Are you going to use tank valves on your air bags, or have a compressor.
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Just using a compressor. I'm not into the low rides. I have about five inches of clearance, and its not likely going to be enough. Edmonton is notorious for its bad roads. This year is the worst I've ever seen.
I used the air bags so I could get up out of the weeds not down in em. [S
I used the air bags so I could get up out of the weeds not down in em. [S
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
I have been dinging away on my door for it seems like three weeks. good learning experience. The first picture is before, and the last two are the after shots.
Thanks to gjunctionmike for some inspiring pictures on his metal work thread, I decided to try and straighten out the skin on the door.[cl
You can see by the photo with the pins welded on that I tried to pull out and shrink a bad crease. I already cut off the pins in the crease in the first photo. I should have cut it out and welded in a new piece. After the damage was done I had several more experienced guys say this was the way to go. Thats what I get for plodding ahead on my own with out asking for advice first.
Oh well, like I said it was a great learning experience. I think the door is smooth enough to hit with a shrink disk, when it arrives I will give that a try. I have been chasing oil can areas on the door as a result of welding on the pins to pull with. To much shrink and it collapsed the dome on the door. They are semi under control now, and the door has a dome again.
It has take a pile of hammer and dolly work to get it to this stage. This is my first time doing any, and I wanted to get a handle before I tackled the roof. The door is going to get some filler. I don't want to get stuck on perfection my first build. Gotta keep moving, get finished and move on to another project.
Thanks to gjunctionmike for some inspiring pictures on his metal work thread, I decided to try and straighten out the skin on the door.[cl
You can see by the photo with the pins welded on that I tried to pull out and shrink a bad crease. I already cut off the pins in the crease in the first photo. I should have cut it out and welded in a new piece. After the damage was done I had several more experienced guys say this was the way to go. Thats what I get for plodding ahead on my own with out asking for advice first.
Oh well, like I said it was a great learning experience. I think the door is smooth enough to hit with a shrink disk, when it arrives I will give that a try. I have been chasing oil can areas on the door as a result of welding on the pins to pull with. To much shrink and it collapsed the dome on the door. They are semi under control now, and the door has a dome again.
It has take a pile of hammer and dolly work to get it to this stage. This is my first time doing any, and I wanted to get a handle before I tackled the roof. The door is going to get some filler. I don't want to get stuck on perfection my first build. Gotta keep moving, get finished and move on to another project.
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icebox
Well-known member
Where did the pictures go ? I clicked one the first one and some little window popped up saying something so I clicked back and the pictures were gone.
icebox
icebox
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Sorry, I was fixing a screw up
I loaded a wrong picture, and had them out of order.
I loaded a wrong picture, and had them out of order.
GJunktionMike
Something's wrong with that boy!
100% better. Looks like that crease was good and deep. You really have to watch using pulling studs they will get you into trouble. I only use them for a last resort if I can't get to the back side.
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Yupp, they got me into trouble. I actually mig welded pieces of TIG rod and used them to pull. Lessons learned.
Torchie
Well-known member
Looks good from here gold03.
When you gonna chop it?
Torchie.
When you gonna chop it?
Torchie.
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Looks fine to me. [P What's next?
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Hey Torchie, I knew you were going to say that! You're right though. It's really getting to that point. I would like to have it rolling on its own wheels first though. My rims and tires haven't come in yet. its to high up on the frame table. That's my storey....
Torchie
Well-known member
Hey Torchie, I knew you were going to say that! You're right though. It's really getting to that point. I would like to have it rolling on its own wheels first though. My rims and tires haven't come in yet. its to high up on the frame table. That's my storey....
All good gold03.
You are right to get it back on the ground before the chop. You reallly want to be able to visualize the stance of the truck with the chop.
When I cut mine I looked at a 2 inch chop(What's the point)). A 3 inch chop(Better but not there yet) and a hard chop(5 or 6 inches. Too much) and settled on 4 inches. To me the stance is just right.
I am also considering reverseing the spring eyes to bring the whole truck down another inch. But with fenders i will have to look at wheel clearence as well.
Keep at it. At this point I am living my build thru you and dirtyrat and Icebox.
Torchie.
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gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Started to get ready for the chop. I removed the wind shield and rear window. I'm going to remove the cab brace that goes across the bottom of the rear window on a temporary basis. The four inch chop I'm going to attempt will line up behind the brace so it comes out till the final welding is done then goes back in. You can see the welds removed in picture four.
Four inch chop following the body line. The rear of the cab will slide down inside along the chalk line. Curved cut to eliminate some heat pucker.
I am going to keep the rear window the original size. Some don't like that look, but it gives easy rear view for an old mans stiff neck.
The A-pillar will get the same treatment Torchie did on his with a little twist. I'm going to undo a few spot welds on the header and cut around the visor mount to get my A-pillar to pull out. See chalk lines.
Thanks for the tips on the A-pillar treatment Torchie. You can see from the pictures my intended cuts at the top of the A-pillar. The header treatment and outer cut will make it easier to repair the header. I hope.[S
One question from a rookie. the A-pillar gets cut at 90* to the A-pillar, right? Straight cut, not at an angle. Perpendicular to the pillar. Is that right?
The last three pictures are a repair technique I have never seen before. Done by previous owner. A gob of Bondo with a piece of galvanized metal stuck into it to cover a hole[S The galvanization makes the piece pop right off, It don't stick. Got some clean and weld to do. [
Four inch chop following the body line. The rear of the cab will slide down inside along the chalk line. Curved cut to eliminate some heat pucker.
I am going to keep the rear window the original size. Some don't like that look, but it gives easy rear view for an old mans stiff neck.
The A-pillar will get the same treatment Torchie did on his with a little twist. I'm going to undo a few spot welds on the header and cut around the visor mount to get my A-pillar to pull out. See chalk lines.
Thanks for the tips on the A-pillar treatment Torchie. You can see from the pictures my intended cuts at the top of the A-pillar. The header treatment and outer cut will make it easier to repair the header. I hope.[S
One question from a rookie. the A-pillar gets cut at 90* to the A-pillar, right? Straight cut, not at an angle. Perpendicular to the pillar. Is that right?
The last three pictures are a repair technique I have never seen before. Done by previous owner. A gob of Bondo with a piece of galvanized metal stuck into it to cover a hole[S The galvanization makes the piece pop right off, It don't stick. Got some clean and weld to do. [
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Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
When I did my A-pillars, yes I cut perpendicular to the pillar.
Looks like you have things sorted out, everyone does these chops a little differently it seems, and you run into work no matter how you do it, but I sure would have liked to not split my roof in 4 pieces, but hey I learned a lot for the next one...
Looks like you have things sorted out, everyone does these chops a little differently it seems, and you run into work no matter how you do it, but I sure would have liked to not split my roof in 4 pieces, but hey I learned a lot for the next one...
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
I'm really looking hard at moving the cross cut forward toward the windshield. Start the cut in the middle of the door opening then up to the edge of the crown about six or eight inches from the drip rail. Then going toward the windshield then across at the edge of the crown.
See the photo, I was thinking about going toward the windshield because I could sit on the cowl to hammer and dolly it close to me.
Check out this chop.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=578435
See the photo, I was thinking about going toward the windshield because I could sit on the cowl to hammer and dolly it close to me.
Check out this chop.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=578435
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Torchie
Well-known member
Go to it man.
You will find cutting the top off your truck an extremely freeing experience. And when it is welded back on a huge sense of accomplishment.
If you pull that window brace out be sure to reinforce your cab along the back. With out it the back of the cab will get real floppy.
Here is a pic of my posts taped up for cutting. When I do the next one I will cut closer to the front of the cab on the roof as well.
There is another guy on the HAMB from New Zeland who just chopped one. Goes by fleet-wood and he did what you are talking about but cut the rear of the cab roof along the raise panel.
Lot of ways to skin this cat.
One thing you might try is making up a 4 inch template out of poster board and using that as you width maker insted of a tape ruler . Works realy good going around corners or compound curves.
Take a deep breath and have at it. Oh and post pics.
Torchie.
You will find cutting the top off your truck an extremely freeing experience. And when it is welded back on a huge sense of accomplishment.
If you pull that window brace out be sure to reinforce your cab along the back. With out it the back of the cab will get real floppy.
Here is a pic of my posts taped up for cutting. When I do the next one I will cut closer to the front of the cab on the roof as well.
There is another guy on the HAMB from New Zeland who just chopped one. Goes by fleet-wood and he did what you are talking about but cut the rear of the cab roof along the raise panel.
Lot of ways to skin this cat.
One thing you might try is making up a 4 inch template out of poster board and using that as you width maker insted of a tape ruler . Works realy good going around corners or compound curves.
Take a deep breath and have at it. Oh and post pics.
Torchie.
Attachments
gold03
He lives in an "Altered State"!
Thanks for the info Torchie. The template might be a good idea.
The rear brace will be going back in. I will be putting in temporary bracing. I was going to pick that up today, but ran out of time.
Thanks for picture of the A-pillar tape.
I'm really looking forward to cutting. Like Dr said, I am going to try and make a template of the roof dome to help preserve it when it goes back together.
The rear brace will be going back in. I will be putting in temporary bracing. I was going to pick that up today, but ran out of time.
Thanks for picture of the A-pillar tape.
I'm really looking forward to cutting. Like Dr said, I am going to try and make a template of the roof dome to help preserve it when it goes back together.
