Okay I've got a 1950 chieftain with a straight 8. Got it a year ago, same old story guy said it runs the batterys just dead. Yeah ok. Lier lol. So told the wife Id have it on the road in a week. It's now been over a year. The problems gas tank rusted through. Bought a used race fuel cell ended up cracked. Next I rebuilt the carb, carb still not spiting fuel like it should. Guess I need a pro to rebuild it. Okay the big problem I converted to 12 volt and my coil exploded because I left the key on... I am wondering if I was supposed to keep the voltage regulator that's on the firewall. I am starting to think the car gods hate me. So any help would be appreciated. If anyone is in the Hampton roads area of va. Pm me I could use a hand.
1950 chieftain need help
- Thread starter Ratlife
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
CR55
It's just a little surface rust!
I'm not 100% sure, but I seem to remember that you need to change the alternator/generator, starter, voltage regulator, bulbs and you need something to change the voltage to the gauges if you keep them. Hope you get the problems straightened out, sure will be a cool ride when you get it finished! [cl..CR
PhilJohnson
Well-known member
Your coil shouldn't have exploded. At worse you should have had a dead battery and a very burned out set of points. Was it the original coil? Also did you change over the generator? A six volt regulator will not charge a 12 volt battery. How much of the electrical system have you changed over after putting in a 12 volt battery?
I have heard of coil meltdowns myself. But you need to be sure to have the correct resistor if it is not an internal resistor type coil. Also, I am assuming you have the original point type ignition. I have heard in the past that leaving your key on could melt down your coil if the last time the engine was turned off, and the points happen to land in the closed position. if the points land in the open position the ground is broken to the coil (it gets it's ground though the points, and juices the coil when the points break contact during operation.). So, if the points happen to be closed when the engine is shut down, and the power to the ignition is left on, there is power threw the coil continuously until the key is turned to the off position. If you don't have a resister for the coil, there is nothing to burn off that power so it cooks the coil.
Hope that rambling made sense.. lol
Hope that rambling made sense.. lol
lowbuckrats
Well-known member
The original starter & points/condensor will work fine. You'll have to change the coil to 12v style, the 6v generator to an 12v altenator, all your bulbs to 12v and put a resistor inline to your gas guage and radio. For the carb, if that has the original 2bbl, a 283/307 small rochester 2bbl will work in its place (readily available, bolts right on, just modify the throttle linkage).Then I put in electric inline fuel pump ( none of the carb and fuel pump parts are available anymore for pontiac straight 8's, believe me, I looked!). Did all of this to my 54 Pontiac that had the flathead straight 8. That thing ran awesome and had lots of power after I did these things. I miss that car....
cherokee_64
Banned
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2010
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rebstew
Well-known member
Very nice tech.
Tat tech article cleared up a few issues. I already did the 12 volt coil, battery, 10si alt, removed regulator due to 10si have one internal. I believe because the key was left on it was sending power to the coil and it had no where to go and Boom! Alot of people didn't understand why I converted to 12 volt, I want and everyday driver and due to the horrible traffic here my toms wouldnt be high enough to charge the bat. Plus I have shaved doors and the actuator is 12 volts, radio 12 volts ( mine didn't come with the radio option). In the future if I plan to run bags it will need 12 volts. As far as the carb goes I pull the fuel line off the carb and it spits fuel fine when I tun over the engine. If I pour a steady stream of fuel down the carbs throat it will stay running till I stop pouring. I looked down the carb as I'm trying to start and the two nozzles are just barely dripping fuel so the carb is the problem. As it's a Carter wcd 719s parts are hell to find. You can find rebuild kits but it's just the gaskets not the jets or the throttle arm that missing ( I bent and cut a coat hanger to work for now). So I appreciate everyones help. Also as far as the coil exploding from the key left on could the fact that my car has a key switch and push button ignition have any thing to do with?( You turn on the key and then push the start button).
