1950 F1 front axle issue

[NitroJohnny]

I have a 1950 F1 that has all stock suspension and the frame / suspension ride heights are all stock.

The issue is that the body has a 10" channel so now the front tires hit the fenders when turning pretty quick. I doubt I could get into a driveway with one shot. So I need a solution.

I have searched for some 15x5 wheels that have more offset and cant find any with more than I have now and no one will change the ones that I have. I also searched for a new axle or spindles that will bring it in and nothing.

And advice?

 

[HOT40ROD]

Lets see picture.

 

[NitroJohnny]

 

[zzrodder]

If you find wheels with more offset, you will likely have trouble with the tires hitting the frame instead, or at least hitting the tie rod ends. Time for an S10 frame clip swap maybe....

 

[ratrodz]

cut the fender and add a couple inchs

 

[NitroJohnny]

Cutting the fender would ruin the look of the truck IMO. And It wont be getting any other clip. I want to keep it stock suspension and frame. I dont mind a shorter axle or different spindles. I just want to keep it original looking in and out as best I can.

I have already looked at the space behind the wheel and there is plenty. I can go in another 1.5 inches or more before it hits the tie rod and I really dont care if it rubs the frame a little during sharp turns. I deal with that in my 61 bug that is dropped. I just dont want to damage the fenders and need to get more turning radius.

 

[HOT40ROD]

Do you still have the stock 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern on the hubs?

I was thinking a wheel with most of an offset. something like a front wheel drive wheel. But with the 5 1/2 pattern that may be hard to find. There are also some companies out there that will build the wheels the way you need it.

i like the head light rings. do you know what they are off of?

 

[NitroJohnny]

Yea, still stock. I found a wheel company in Ca. that might be able to make a pair for me. I'll be calling them today.

 

[Old Iron]

If you can weld, cut the center of the wheel, at the factory weld (or knock out the rivets) move the center of the wheel to where you want it, true the rim to the center and weld it back.
I've done that a lot.
http://www.bart-wheel.com/stocksw.htm
Bart racing wheels have a lot to choose from, looks like 7" is the narrowest but they do have the 5-5.5
At one time you could buy the centers from them, I suspect you still can.
The reason someone else will not do it is they don't want the liability thing!!!

 

[NitroJohnny]

I thought about doing it myself, I am just worried about getting it trued back up right. I really dont want a wobble. I understand the liability thing as well. I also looked at wider wheels, but you are basically adding the wheel width to the rear of the wheel and the front isnt really being taken back any. So a 5" wheel with 3" offset is the same distance from the fender as a 6" wheel with 4 inches. I cant seem to find a ready built wheel that takes the front edge back.

 

[Old Iron]

You can do this
1. Get a spindle with a hub, fasten it to a work bench (with clamps is fine)
2. After cutting the center out of the wheel, bolt the center of the wheel to the spindle with the lugs, place the rim on the center (where you want it for offset) position the spindle so the side of the rim is close to the edge of the table ( 1/8" to 1/4")
3. Spin the wheel and true the rim close (doesn't have to be perfect yet) and tack weld one side [
4. Turn the wheel 180 degrees adjust clearance to the edge of the table and tack weld [
5. Turn the wheel 90 degrees adjust rim to the edge of the table tack weld [
6. Turn rim 180 degrees adjust to edge of table tack weld [
At this point you have 4 tack welds 90 degrees apart now spin the wheel and check for it being true (adjust if necessary)
7. If good, tack in between each weld [ then you have 8 tack welds
8. At this point you can weld the rim to the center [
Like I said take your time and you can do this

Good Luck
Jim

 

[NitroJohnny]

Jim, your making me want to try this. I'll post pictures on my build thread if I try it. [P Maybe by this weekend.

 

[Old Iron]

Kool, I'll be watchin [cl [P

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

I think you guys are putting the cart before the horse here.

First off, what size wheel and tire are you currently running and what is the offset?
The tire looks a little fat for the front.

I know that is a pretty heavy channel but I think with a stock 15x5 F-1 wheel and a skinny tire you should be fine. F-1 wheels aren't everywhere, but they aren't that hard to find...

 

[NitroJohnny]

I dont think the skinny tire is going to be enough. I already looked at that option. It will give me a bit more steering but not what it needs. It has the stock 15x5 wheels too. The backspace is about 3.25 inches. I need another inch at least. Plus a skinny tire as well.

 

[ratrodz]

geo trackers and suzuki sidekick have 5x5.5 bolt pattern they are dished in alot i cant remember if a hubcap will go on the wheels or not

 

[zzrodder]

OK, how about using a wheel adaptor to change to a more common bolt pattern like 5 on 4 1/2 or 5 on 4 3/4 , then you can use a FWD wheel - even though the adaptors will add an inch, FWD wheels may gain that back plus the extra 1 1/2 " you need ?

 

[NitroJohnny]

I dont know if the have a 5" backspace 5" wheel. So it may not do anything for me at all but I will check into it.

 

[Jimmy Wallbanger]

I have the Chevy/geo tracker wheels on mine for mock up and they have a large inset ! might get a pair from a junk yard and if they dont work see if you can take them back before you buy them

 

[NitroJohnny]

Will hubcaps fit on them?