1950 GMC build after 31 year slumber

[jfg455]

Are you going to try and remove the body line from the rear fenders?

I am undecided if I am going to remove the line on the rear fender or add a line to the fronts to match it. I really have to mount at least 2 of the wheel and tires for the truck and mock up the wheel opening to see which would look better. Right now I am leaning towards removing the rear line.

 

[jfg455]

so I messed around with the running boards a little. I think I need to find another set of boards to make the rears. Either that or I need to make a new bead roller die to match the contours of the old ones.

Also messed around with the wheels a little. They are 96 Impala SS 17X9.5 rims. The tire that is on there is a 255/60/17 but I think it is a little too big. I might go to a 255/50/17 in the front and a 275/40/17 in the rear. I was thinking of auto crossing the truck once I get it shook out a little.

 

[DJ3100]

What about cutting the beaded surface out of the running boards and replacing it with one full length flat sheet? Then extend the vertical sides to reach the rear fender. You could cover it with rubber like the 30'2 Fords or with bed liner.

Those bottom cab corners look like the cab corners on both AD Chevys I have and the '48 Ford. Even as good as the roof was, the bottom corners fill up with dirt that holds the moisture.

I think you should add that detail line to the front fenders. No one would ever figure out what was going on.

You're making great progress.

 

[jfg455]

For some reason in my mind I see the plain flat runningboards and I think the builder just took the easy way out. I think the ribs make them look lore factory. I did not realize the big AD truck boards are tapered front to back as well. I am thinking of making the rear board as a seperate piece instead of making on big long unit. They will bolt together where they meet but still be two sets. Probably way more work than it is worth but it satifies my brain. [

 

[jfg455]

Well no pics yet but both running boards (front half) are mounted. I did some little stuff that needed cleaning up as well like moving and shortening all of the stock 90 C1500 E-brake cable mouonts so they now all tuck nicely behind the running boards. Not sure if I am going to stick a large ugly pedal in the cab or try and sneak a japenease style pull handle. I have to see if I still have the stock unit out of the 73 Datsun 610 I am playing with. As soon as the snow bank melts in front of my second garage door I can roll the Datsun into the shed and start the body work on the GMC.....[P[

 

[jfg455]

So now that the shop is sorted out (not clean yet) I did get some time to start the tin work on the cab. Both door openings have collapsed and now I see why there was a bunch of washers under the lower hinge. The A pillar was bent forward about 1/4". Now that it is jacked back into place I can start putting some tin back in.

 

[DJ3100]

Ouch!!

And I thought my AD's were rusted, I only had a little hole at the bottom. The door jambs all stayed in place.

You've already done the hard part. Putting the sheet metal back will be easier than cleaning out the garage.

 

[jfg455]

At least working on projects is fun DJ3100. Cleaning, not so much.

I was surprised that all but 4 of the interior trim screws came out, all of the hood hinge bolts came right out. But then the truck spent most of its life in California. Most of the rust came from the last 31 years of sitting in the woods here in New England and getting covered in pine needles and such. I hope to have the cab knocked out in the next 2 weeks. Heres hoping![

 

[DJ3100]

The screws I always have problems with are the clutch head heater housing screws on the passenger side. I think the interior trim screws are stainless with would help in their removal.

Looking forward to seeing the cab done - when did you say, on May 3?

 

[jfg455]

Looking forward to seeing the cab done - when did you say, on May 3?

I hope to but I forgot I have to do the rear window area. Hope to get all the bottom side of the cab done by then[

 

[jfg455]

Well I have been working a ton at the day job so I spent most of the day with the wife. Kids are on Vaca and we sent them to FL to see the grand parents. I did sneak in about 1 1/2 hours to get a little more done on the drivers side pillar and floor. Got the rust repaired and the pillar pulled back to whare it is supposed to bo. Fixed the floor by the mount. Now I can make and install the kick panel, fix the inner fender brace and mount and then put the outer skin on.

 

[jfg455]

got a little done on the kick panel today. It appears the truck had been hit at some time on the drivers side pillar area. The chain fall is pulling the pillar back into the position it is supposed to be in. This crappy cell pic is of the mock up of the panel.

 

[DJ3100]

I always hate finding those little surprises, but at least you know what to do about them.

Do the louvers and the little vent door stay? I'd be tempted to eliminate both if i were you - actually I did eliminate them on the '53.

 

[jfg455]

I have hemmed and hawed about if I should lose the door or keep the door. It is getting an A/C unit in the build. The outer panel would cover the entire area where the door was as well. But I kinda like the door being there. I don't remember if the smaller trucks had the door or not. I have seen a ton without it. So at this point it is staying. I might change my mind before I cut the new outer panel.

 

[DJ3100]

I used Vintage Air on the '53. They have no provision for bringing outside air in. At the seminar that they put on, they talked about being sure all the weatherstrip and cowl gaskets did their job to keep hot air (and cold air) from entering the interior. It seemed easier to eliminate the door and cowl vent than to make sure the gaskets actually worked. Plus the linkage for the cowl vent was in the way of the evaporator/ heater box.

 

[falconvan]

I think I'd keep it for those days when it's a little warm but a dose of fresh air does the trick. I like opening mine and cruising around.

 

[Dirtyrat]

I like the look of the cowl vent, I'd keep it, make it work as designed.

 

[jfg455]

Being a 2 ton cab to start with it has the drivers side vent door, passengers side louvers for fresh air in and a cowl vent. The cowl vent area and the drivers side door vent both need some C channel attention. The passengers side louvers will be replaced with the new outer panel. And I see what you are saying about getting them all to seal so the Heat / A/C works well. I never do things the easy way! [S

 

[JG350]

Lookin good now on my to follow list [P

 

[jfg455]

So I am at the point where I need to either Shat or get off the pot as they say regarding the drivers side vent door. After smashing my old propane torch a month ago (valve leaked and drained a brand new tank![S) I finally went and got a new one. There was about 3 lbs of lead in the drivers pillar (remember I said it had been hit?) The crease was about 1/2" deep, went top to bottom of the panel and full of lead. I cut my teeth on panel beating in my Dads MG resto shop so the process came back pretty quick. I worked the area for about 30 minutes, most hammering off dolly to keep the stretching to a minimum. It is just roughed in the picture where it is black (guide coat I will sand) If I decide to keep the door I will dig out my smaller dollies and finish the area.