1952 F-6 Build

[Willowbilly3]

What about trimming a couple inches out of the fenders so they aren't so fat? Not that I don't think it looks great as is but I do agree the back tires look a little lonely in there from certain angles. I like the way you lined everything up, top of bed lines up with cab body line, front and rear fender creases line up. All things that make ones eyes flow across the whole thing without tripping. I'm kinda 50-50 on whether I like it better with skirts or not, which is sort of a left handed compliment because I'm not a fender skirt fan.

 

[Torchie]

More info as promised.....

Before I curl up with a book and some hot tea to fight this cold I went out to the shop and did some quick measurements.
The widest point on the rear fenders side to side is 76 inches.
The widest point of the front fenders side to side is 68 inches.
So the rear is 8 inches wider than the front.
Even if I remove the 3 inches from each rear fender it will not be narrower then the front.
Pic 1 shows how the running board would look if I aligned it correctly with the current width of the rear fender.This visual really shows off the difference between front and rear.
Now for another thought...... [ddd
If you look close at pis 2-3 you can see how the rear fenders tuck in towards the rear. This is evidenced by the fact that the tire setback at the rear of the wheel opening is narrower than at the front.
Since I am going to cut this fender I am considering a wedge (Wider at the front) shaped cut that would square up the tire in the wheel well.
See what happens when you start to think.[S [S [S
That's it for now............
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

[P [ [P

 

[Torchie]

What about trimming a couple inches out of the fenders so they aren't so fat? Not that I don't think it looks great as is but I do agree the back tires look a little lonely in there from certain angles. I like the way you lined everything up, top of bed lines up with cab body line, front and rear fender creases line up. All things that make ones eyes flow across the whole thing without tripping. I'm kinda 50-50 on whether I like it better with skirts or not, which is sort of a left handed compliment because I'm not a fender skirt fan.

That's more or less what is going to happen Willowbilly. At least 3 inches of width. That will bring the tire up closer to the wheel well lip. It's nice when people notice the things that you mentioned. Means that I am doing my job right.
I know that certain things like fender skirts or Wide whitewall tires are a Love or Hate proposition for many people but for this to be the era correct custom that I envision some of these items are mandatory.
But like I said I want to be able to run with the skirts on or off as my fickleness demands.
Torchie

 

[I-R-POPS]

I really feel your pain. Kinda makes your head hurt at times.
I see what you're talking about on the rear being so much wider than the front. All I've got to offer is get after it and make it what you see in your head.

It will look killer when you get it done your way.

Hope you feel better. Take care of yourself.

 

[Torchie]

I really feel your pain. Kinda makes your head hurt at times.
I see what you're talking about on the rear being so much wider than the front. All I've got to offer is get after it and make it what you see in your head.

It will look killer when you get it done your way.

Hope you feel better. Take care of yourself.

Thanks POPS.
After some more measuring and either due to my overthinking this or my failing eyesight I have determined that all I will need is a straight cut with a as yet to be decided on width for the fenders to be right.
Not as bad as some, these fenders have seen some damage and that is what is throwing off the tire being parallel to the fender lip. So after I do the narrowing out will come the hammers and dollies to get them back into shape.
Thanks for all the input gang....
Torchie

 

[Torchie]

Went out to the shop and laid out the marks for narrowing the rear fenders 3 inches as previously discussed.
Pics 1-3. Plan is to cut at the 1-1/2 inch mark leaving another 1-1/2 to bend over for the new flange.
Pics 4-5. Once I made the first cut I set the cutoff fender on top of the still mounted stock flange to have a look-see.
Pics 6-8. Here's the rub........
The back spacing for the tire/fender edge looks much better and now I am questioning narrowing it any more. Plus the tire/fender edge spacing st the top of the wheel opening is now just about the same as the front tire/fender spacing. Of course if I leave it like this I will have nothing to bend over to make the new flange with.....
One thing leads to another.
Thanks for stopping by......
Torchie

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

So... what's Plan B?

Is is reasonable to make the second cut and weld the two pieces back together?

.

 

[Bamamav]

So... what's Plan B?

Is is reasonable to make the second cut and weld the two pieces back together?

.

Looks that is what will have to happen, or get another fender and cut less....

 

[Torchie]

So... what's Plan B?

Is is reasonable to make the second cut and weld the two pieces back together?

.

Looks that is what will have to happen, or get another fender and cut less....

Well good Dr and Bama. One of the reasons that I left part of the top of the fender attached to the original flange was in case of a screw up. Then at least I would have something to work with. [cl
I know that people malign lap welding metal but one way to do it would be to just overlap it the way it is now and then plug weld it and weld the edges.
I am still not sure that my original plan of 3 inches won't work. I have an extra set of hands coming over in the morning and it will make it easier for me to hold up the fender and do some more measuring.
If I leave it at removing the 1-1/2 from both sides it will still make the rear width 5 inches wider than the front.
I'm not so much concerned about what measure what, as I am about how it all flows.
More to follow......
Torchie

 

[gold03]

If you butt weld it, there is less work than the roof. You could tack it together on the truck then unbolt the fender to make it easier to work on a bench or a couple saw horses. No big reaching and you could sit to do it. Break the stock flange bolts loose before you weld for easy access. Taking the fender off would make any hammer and dolly work a little easier as well. Same idea, sit and hammer.

 

[Bamamav]

Drill a couple or three holes in the fender and flange piece and bolt them together for mock up. Then you can sit in your favorite chair and look at it from all angles from a distance and see how it flows.

 

[Torchie]

If you butt weld it, there is less work than the roof. You could tack it together on the truck then unbolt the fender to make it easier to work on a bench or a couple saw horses. No big reaching and you could sit to do it. Break the stock flange bolts loose before you weld for easy access. Taking the fender off would make any hammer and dolly work a little easier as well. Same idea, sit and hammer.

Drill a couple or three holes in the fender and flange piece and bolt them together for mock up. Then you can sit in your favorite chair and look at it from all angles from a distance and see how it flows.

No problem removing the flange bolts as they are new and only 2 holding it on.
When I have some help tomorrow I will do some more measurements and mock ups. Unfortunately it is kind of in a cramped space so it is hard to step back and look at it from a distance.
I need to see that if I stick to the original plan weather or not the hub cap will stick out to far into the wheel opening when I put on fender skirts.
It would be easier for me to lap and plug weld it as my eyes are not what they were when I did the chop on the top and butt welding is becoming an issue for me sight wise.
Going to ponder it tonight while I watch a western......[P
Torchie

 

[Old Iron]

[ [ [
[p [p [p

 

[smallfoot]

Ponder?...I thought pondering is what ya'll do in the winter. Isn't that when you scoot out over the ice and drill a hole to fish???!?

 

[I-R-POPS]

Torchie I wish you were closer. I'd be glad to help you hold things
in place so you could figure out what looks right to you.

I've been known to use pop rivets when working alone. Pretty easy
to weld up the holes after drilling them back out.

I feel your pain with the eyes sight. I need a lot of light anymore.
Stay after it, Brother.

 

[Old Iron]

I use Clecos to hold panels together then you don't have to drill them out.

 

[Torchie]

Got the lower radiator hose installed and went to install the starter and it wouldn't clear the steering box so I will have to look into a mini-starter.
As far as the rear fenders go it looks like an 1-1/2 inch narrowing is going to be it.
Pic 1. My version of clecos. [ddd
Pic 2. After securing the fender I laid a steel tube across the wheel opening to check for hub cap clearance. About 1/4-1/2 inch or so.
Pic 3. The old Ford axles have that stub on them that sticks out as well so even without the caps there is only about an inch clearance.
Seems like a lot of work but the tire placement does look better. Oh well. What's a little more welding at this point.
Thanks for stopping by.....
Torchie

 

[bob w]

Looks really good, Torchie. Well worth the extra work.

 

[smallfoot]

"What's a little more welding at this point"....Torchie

That's the right attitude man!