1953 Dodge Panel Truck

[rmac]

Ok guys, I have my choice between 3 Dodge panel trucks. All the same 1953 model in various stages of falling apart. The one with the least rust needs a donor frame on it. The other two have rust on the fenders, and on the side of the body just above the rear wheel wells. I have never done a frame swap before and I have zero welding skills ( I am going in a bit to get a HF 90amp flux core wire welder to practice) which would be the easier build for me to undertake? I'm thinking one with some cancer in the body as opposed to having to mate an S10 frame to the body. I need some advice please. Easier to accomplish the late model frame or repair rust in the body? I can handle all of the mechanical stuff but I have no history with body mods or repair. TIA

By the way: This is the look I would like to achieve with the panel truck

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/project-pilehouse/custom-hood-1/

 

[skull]

frame

any frame work needs to be done by someone who knows what they are doing, be a bad thing for a weld to fail when driving the rod around, not to mention the safety factor.

l took the frame on my truck and cut the frame off near where the firewall is & grafted a 1970's F-body sub-frame to it and she drives well with very easy obtainable parts at almost any parts store.

a S-1O frame would work, l don't see why it could not be modified to work.

what power plant are you using?

Later

 

[rmac]

I'd like to run a late model Hemi in it so that I can keep as much MOPAR as possible. That's what I'm thinking, I know enough about it to know that I don't need to be screwing with the frame and then expecting it to be safe to ride in until I get more experience. So you think that I should try to stay with the original frame and just patch the rust where needed? Im sure I could handle firewall mods to fit the larger engine. This is something that I have wanted to do for years, and now that I have the vehicle I am real stoked to get started, I just want to make sure it's done right.

 

[JBailey]

Personnaly I would say using the best body and a donor, S10/Dakota, would be the better route. You'd already have proper brakes and better bushings and such. The original parts are wore out and brakes aren't really adequate for more powerful power plant. That's my opinion any how.

 

[rmac]

JBailey what worries me is any of the fab/welding that has to be done to the S10 frame. Also, I don't know anyone round here with the skills to pull it off without charging me a small fortune that could otherwise be used for engine/tranny. Do you think that the swap would be something that I could pull off with no welding background using the info I can find on these pages?

 

[Willowbilly3]

It's a lot easier to learn to weld frame than to learn to weld sheet metal. The flux core is a waste of money, can't do anything decent with those little pos welders. If you are doing a frame swap there shouldn't be any safety critical stuff, just getting the cab/body mounts welded to the frame. So I guess I vote get the best body and do a chassis swap. Youtube has tons of pilothouse and S10/Dakota frame swaps so you can spend a little time to see what you are getting into. Even if you keep a stock frame, you have a ton of work to get one of those old relics safe and streetable.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

Im with JB the frames on the others may be worse than you think , till you get into them and see for sure , then your stuck with bad body and frame .. this way you will at least have a good body to work with ... how bad is the frame ?
can you tell ? I understand about the no body with the skills in your area . kinda in the same spot as you .

 

[Bamamav]

I would buy a stick welder instead of the flux core. Stick welding is real easy to learn, and even ugly welds that have penetration will have strength to them, where the low power flux is only good for thin metal.

Making some simple angle iron brackets to bolt the body to the frame won't be too hard. You could even design them to bolt to the frame, possibly using original holes. Think things through, ask a lot of questions, look at a lot of videos and pics. We were all in your shoes at one time, everybody has to learn.

 

[rmac]

Well, I picked up the flux core earlier today, maybe I can teach myself to do sheet metal sooner or later. I'll look into a stick welder too pricewise...you guys got some very valid points. I'm just trying to make sure I don't get in over my head on the fabrication part and wind up screwing something up. Very good points with the frame swap already having all the stuff on it too.

 

[zzrodder]

Well, I picked up the flux core earlier today, maybe I can teach myself to do sheet metal sooner or later. I'll look into a stick welder too pricewise...you guys got some very valid points. I'm just trying to make sure I don't get in over my head on the fabrication part and wind up screwing something up. Very good points with the frame swap already having all the stuff on it too.

I hope you got that flux core welder cheap and have better luck with it than I had. I bought a spool of flux core wire 10 years ago and still have 99% of it left - I can't understand wanting to chip flux off a weld, I never could get the hang of telling if I was seeing weld or flux going on... I've built a couple frames with a stick welder and found it easier. I know the idea of having to get a gas bottle filled for a MIG welder sounds like an expensive pain in the butt, but there is no easier way for a beginner to learn to weld and get decent results.
I also vote for the frame replacement, the Dakota frame would keep things in the Mopar family too, I get the idea of keeping the stock frame but fixing up 60 year old suspension is no picnic....

 

[rmac]

Yeah it was pretty cheap man! Hell who knows maybe I can find a use for it around the place. MIGs are high dollar, well when you think about spending the money on it only to find out that you don't have the ability to do it! Guess I'll find out though. I'll need one anyway I imagine if I want to chop the top a few inches. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[DougnDog]

My 2 cents

I agree with Willowbilly3 putting a modern frame under a old rod is much easier and safer than most people think. it takes PLANNING [S and choosing the right body to frame combo. I have done quite a few in the past. my 47 ford truck using a 76 chevy 1/2 ton frame, the 54 Ford cummings desel truck using a 92 chevy 1 ton dually frame, my old 46 ford truck using a 86 Ford 4x4 frame and 351 engine.for a few.
as for welding [with core wire its the best for all around welding on hot rods. the reason is unless you only weld in a closed shop using gas for shielding and in positions easy to see and easy to get to (bench work) its fine. but outside in the wind ( wind will blow your gas away) or in places hard to reach or hard to see core is best. you can take the cone off for easy to see weld zone and with some tape around the tip you can get into places that are hard to reach. I like my Lincoln with a rheostat controls. lots of tips out there for sheet metal welding like Copper backing for burn through and heat sink, also on rusty metal whose thickness varies. allowing the wire to reach farther out the tip also cools the weld zone when you come to a thin spot. splatter and bird S*** looking welds are no problem as long as they sound. 99% of welds get dressed up with a grinder anyway. only the purest among us need to have a weld look like untouched steel and will berate anyone who uses bondo. but I have found most those guys never finish their projects. Good luck and have fun

 

[rmac]

Bama

Would you recommend something like the Lincoln AC 225?

 

[Willowbilly3]

I would buy a stick welder instead of the flux core. Stick welding is real easy to learn, and even ugly welds that have penetration will have strength to them, where the low power flux is only good for thin metal.

Making some simple angle iron brackets to bolt the body to the frame won't be too hard. You could even design them to bolt to the frame, possibly using original holes. Think things through, ask a lot of questions, look at a lot of videos and pics. We were all in your shoes at one time, everybody has to learn.

I agree. I had nothing but a torch and a stick welder most of my life and I still crank up the old Lincoln SAE 200 and run 7018 for anything that needs structural integrity. I grew up and built many cars and trailers with an old Hobart 180 amp AC buzz box and 6013 rod.

 

[Bamamav]

Bama

Would you recommend something like the Lincoln AC 225?

Yep, that's what I have, along with a Lincoln Handy Mig with flux core wire. Ii use the stick on thick metal, the flux on thin.

 

[rmac]

Thanks a lot guys. Its very much appreciated! Anyone got any links to a chop job on a panel truck? Ive seen a lot of stuff on picjups and cars but none on a panel. Would lime to see how someone elses project went to see if its something I would dive into.

 

[Ricks Garage]

Before you go and chop a panel truck you will need to practice welding.
There is a lot of planning needed to make a chop, even on a pickup cab.
As far as welding on the frame, do ever use that flux core **** on a frame, it has low tensile strength. Find a used stick welder. Go to a large junkyard and measure frames to find one that is the closest to your panel truck. Dodge pickup ^ "keep it in the family" a late model Hemi will set you back around 1500 to 2000. Plus you will have to play with the electronics. Find a donor car or truck and get everything, trans, wiring, computers steering column, pedals and possibly the frame......


weld on..........[

 

[Ricks Garage]

as far as doing the actual chop, get and read this book by Tex Smith.....





weld on..........[

 

[DougnDog]

my post might have not been clear the Mig welder I talked about is used for Light welding......1/8 and less. I use a stick welder and 7018 for thicker parts.

 

[Headtripp]

anything happening here?