1955 chevy
- Thread starter Maine Boy
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
05snopro440
Well-known member
The patina on your truck looks awesome!
I've had to learn a lot about patina myself, and I'll try to communicate it as best I can.
-The first thing to do is clean your truck using a mixture of CLR and Water, and a scotch brite pad (green). I used the knock-off ones with a sponge on the backside, they work well. It will take off the oxidation and any surface rust that is on top of the paint. You'll be surprised at the color of your truck after and what is actually present.
-Linseed oil remains glossy and sticky. The vehicles I've seen with linseed oil applied get dust stuck to them, and it just doesn't look right.
-I won't clear coat over the patina on my truck. If the clear doesn't adhere well, which is very possible, then you ruin the patina. Any I've seen with clear have a textured finish, kind of like orange peel, which I don't like.
-My truck has much less paint than yours, and what's important to realize is that the rust is not actually active. So there's not a lot of need to clear over it in my opinion.
-I might try the Eastwood Patina Preserver, just to slow the oxidation of the paint so I don't have to CLR as often.
I hope that helps.
I've had to learn a lot about patina myself, and I'll try to communicate it as best I can.
-The first thing to do is clean your truck using a mixture of CLR and Water, and a scotch brite pad (green). I used the knock-off ones with a sponge on the backside, they work well. It will take off the oxidation and any surface rust that is on top of the paint. You'll be surprised at the color of your truck after and what is actually present.
-Linseed oil remains glossy and sticky. The vehicles I've seen with linseed oil applied get dust stuck to them, and it just doesn't look right.
-I won't clear coat over the patina on my truck. If the clear doesn't adhere well, which is very possible, then you ruin the patina. Any I've seen with clear have a textured finish, kind of like orange peel, which I don't like.
-My truck has much less paint than yours, and what's important to realize is that the rust is not actually active. So there's not a lot of need to clear over it in my opinion.
-I might try the Eastwood Patina Preserver, just to slow the oxidation of the paint so I don't have to CLR as often.
I hope that helps.
Blue Eyed Devil
Devil's Advocate
Don't clear it.
Rust is always active. It never sleeps...
Rust is always active. It never sleeps...
Willowbilly3
A *real* tin magnet
Do the clean up and hose it down with cheap penetrating oil, then wipe it off. You have to re-do it fairly often but it leaves a nice look. I do it to most of my junk sculptures and have a lot of people ask how I get that look.
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
Welcome to RRR.
I've never liked clear over patina... whether it be "flat" or "satin" clear, the results are still too glossy and (in my eye) looks like a greasy slab of canned pork...
I think of it this way... it took 60 years of "neglect" to look like it does today. The next 10 years (with some of the care already mentioned) should serve you better than a clear, which would have to be stripped when it fails (and it will) along with your patina.
My opinion only and welcome again!
.
I've never liked clear over patina... whether it be "flat" or "satin" clear, the results are still too glossy and (in my eye) looks like a greasy slab of canned pork...
I think of it this way... it took 60 years of "neglect" to look like it does today. The next 10 years (with some of the care already mentioned) should serve you better than a clear, which would have to be stripped when it fails (and it will) along with your patina.
My opinion only and welcome again!
.
bruno
Crusty Rusty Old Rat Rodder!
I agree with the Dr. I think clear over patina looks bad, always looks too shiny.
RickBright
Active member
Really kind of hate to put a picture of my '50 International 5.9 Cummins up after the canned ham picture, but if I can get a picture posted here it is. I think to polish or leave as is depends on the finish you have. My truck had mostly faded heavy oxidized paint so I elected to polish. Had it been mostly surface rust I would have left as is. No clear coat, heavy duty rubbing compound and wax. Man it kind of does look like canned hamb lmao
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RickBright
Active member
lowbuckrats
Well-known member
Try Flood Penetrol. I use it to preserve the patina, works good. I brush on a new coat every year. Easy to use, just brush it on, no need to tape off anything. Doesn't leave any brush marks either. Get it at Lowe's.
cycledog
A really rusty biker
Good looking truck.
cycledog
A really rusty biker
If you go the dual carb route check out http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/ for their carbs, Carter-Weber progressive 2bbls.
They don't have that old timey look but drivability is 1000% better than the stock carters. I have used them on a couple of six's and couldn't have been happier. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
I like "new not rebuilt" when I looked at the carter's at Langdon's. Price is right too...
Thanks again..
