1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

[jfg455]

I pulled that right from GM for the 06 silverado 5.3 service documents.

I had forgotten about the later alternators being pcm controlled. To tell you the truth I have not converted one as I have always used the older or smaller GM units for my builds. I can shoot you the diagnostic for the alternator and see if it gives actual specs for voltage.

 

[DJ3100]

I pulled that right from GM for the 06 silverado 5.3 service documents.

I had forgotten about the later alternators being pcm controlled. To tell you the truth I have not converted one as I have always used the older or smaller GM units for my builds. I can shoot you the diagnostic for the alternator and see if it gives actual specs for voltage.

I am thinking that the GM "Generator Battery Controller" (which I didn't get) probably controls the voltage to the field wiring - not sure what else it might do. The LSTech easy fix, is to wire a light bulb in series with the field exciter (otherwise known as an alternator light). Does that make any sense to anyone?

I read through the Datsun turbo build - I had forgotten about it. New floor, 4 link, new front suspension, wheel tubs from trailer fenders, 5.3. Sounds a lot like this build. I'm still not putting in a turbo though.

 

[Bamamav]

I know nothing about the new computer controlled alternators, but I do know that is how you make a old style 3 wire GM alternator work, you have to have a bulb wired in or it will never kick in to charge. Maybe the new style just uses the computer to put the resistance in the circuit that the bulb does in the old style?

 

[DJ3100]

I know nothing about the new computer controlled alternators, but I do know that is how you make a old style 3 wire GM alternator work, you have to have a bulb wired in or it will never kick in to charge. Maybe the new style just uses the computer to put the resistance in the circuit that the bulb does in the old style?

Thanks for confirming the bulb thing.

The pinout calls the wire "charge indicator control", that sounds like a light. I I can include the bulb for safety and see if it works, unless I find more info.

 

[DJ3100]

I found some info on the Battery Control Module. It's purpose is to increase fuel mileage by up to 10%. It maintains battery charge at 80% capacity (not overcharging it). That also increases battery life. It also provides regenerative engine braking by increasing voltage when the brakes are applied.

It turns out I did get one. It wraps around the negative battery cable like an induction amp gauge.

It seems that they are rarely, if ever, used in engine swaps - not sure why.

 

[jfg455]

I found some info on the Battery Control Module. It's purpose is to increase fuel mileage by up to 10%. It maintains battery charge at 80% capacity (not overcharging it). That also increases battery life. It also provides regenerative engine braking by increasing voltage when the brakes are applied.

It turns out I did get one. It wraps around the negative battery cable like an induction amp gauge.

It seems that they are rarely, if ever, used in engine swaps - not sure why.

Funny about that time we started changing more alternators, batteries and PCM's for charge light issues...Give it a shot and see if it works. It is all PCM controlled so nothing extra to get...[P

 

[DJ3100]

Tail pipes

Been working on the through-the-bumper exhaust.

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The slip coupling should allow some adjustability for fitting the bumper. The tips had a rubber gasket that allows for expansion and contraction of the exhaust pipes, I'm going to do the same thing. Probably will make the gasket from RTV.

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Also made this to plug up the EVAP emission's purge valve. It has the same boss with the O-ring as the original valve.

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[DJ3100]

Funny about that time we started changing more alternators, batteries and PCM's for charge light issues...Give it a shot and see if it works. It is all PCM controlled so nothing extra to get...[P

I'm leaning toward the kiss principle. A part left off is one that won't go bad. I have a while to do more research.

 

[sixty8c10]

That took awhile...just read this whole thing, and am on board for the rest. WOW.

 

[DJ3100]

That took awhile...just read this whole thing, and am on board for the rest. WOW.

Thanks, welcome aboard.

 

[DJ3100]

undercoat

I spent part of the week finishing replacing the last bits of rusted out sheet metal. Got it primed and seam sealed. This morning I scuffed and tacked the primer and shot Bed Armor on the bottom.

I'm using the transmission jack as an adjustable height roll around stool. I've got the body as high as the cherry picker will go.

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Bought a cheap lid for the paint can and strapped the can on. Worked pretty well.

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I am happy with the result. One gallon coated the whole thing twice with an extra shot in the wheel wells.

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[DJ3100]

Changed the spark plugs. Here's 4 of the old ones. Do they look like they came out of a 60,000 mile engine? The top one was a different number than the rest, so maybe someone swapped them?

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[DJ3100]

I think I have everything done that needs to be done before I put the body back on the frame, except painting the firewall.

Can't paint the firewall until I purchase paint. Can't get the paint until I pick a color. I have narrowed the decision to a '50's solid, color - no metallic or pearls. But, I want a copper or burnt orange - Ford had none. Mercury had a couple.

I have checked out all the online suppliers and come to believe I'm going to use a local supplier. The online stuff is all in gallon kits. If 1 gallon prove not to be quite enough and another quart is needed it will be cheaper to get it locally than to buy 2 gallon kits on line. Plus, I won't have to wait for the second gallon to ship.

I'll be trying to make a color decision today.

 

[Torchie]

Looking great DJ.
Good luck on the color pick. I've narrowed mine down to 5 or 6.
Torchie.

 

[Bamamav]

DJ, check out this site, they sell quarts as well as gallons

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1970-Ford-pg01.jpg
Probably not the color you want, just used it as an example. Go to main menu and look around- http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/default.aspx

I've been looking, too!

 

[DJ3100]

DJ, check out this site, they sell quarts as well as gallons

http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1970-Ford-pg01.jpg
Probably not the color you want, just used it as an example. Go to main menu and look around- http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/default.aspx

I've been looking, too!

Thanks Bama. I have been all over that site. It's a really good resource.
The thing that bothers me about ordering on-line is that I really have no idea how much paint I will need. Chances are pretty good I'll mess up somewhere and need to start over or repair a panel or ??? So I really want to be able to go a few miles and pick up what I need.

The other issue I have is reducers. Right now it's 70 degrees. Two weeks from now it might be 100 or higher. So, a local source on the correct speed reducer would be pretty handy.

Right now I just need enough paint to paint the firewall and dash.

 

[DJ3100]

paint

I picked out 3 potential colors this morning and got spray out samples.

What I got (the colors on my monitor match the actual colors pretty well)

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What I thought I was picking out based on the chips at the store

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I like the '56 Chevy color - I think it's Sierra Gold. Maybe I'll go with that. Sherwin Williams didn't have formulas for '50's cars, I guess I'll need to check out PPG.

 

[sgtpontiac]

Guess they do if they've never been changed

Changed the spark plugs. Here's 4 of the old ones. Do they look like they came out of a 60,000 mile engine? The top one was a different number than the rest, so maybe someone swapped them?

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60,000 on a standard set of plugs....yeah...I could buy that...maybe the one was a quick replacement for a bad one many moons ago.... [S

 

[soltz]

Looking Good

I almost forgot what the body looked like [S The exhaust is super[cl

 

[DJ3100]

I almost forgot what the body looked like [S The exhaust is super[cl

Me too, the only part of the body I have seen lately is the under side of the floor. Hopefully I'm done looking at that part of it.

Weird thing about the exhaust is that the exhaust tips go on from the inside, so they get assembled into the bumper and the whole assembly slides over the exhaust.