1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

[DJ3100]

So you are the one that did this!

Aaaaa, no. It's not that quick. Chinese rubber? Is that even real? [S

The info I have on the T5 is that first gear is the weak point. So, until I'm ready to pony up for a TKO, I probably won't be doing any burnouts.

Without the sway bar it likes the speed bumps a little more, especially at an angle. Still corners pretty flat. I may just leave that sway bar off.

 

[jfg455]

Back when I was running around in an 89 formula with a hot 400 SBC I would always tear 2nd gear out of the T5's Usually started with a grinding due to a mangled syncro, then secondary shaft whining in all but 4th gear, then carnage usually on a 6500rpm flat shift into 2nd...[cl

 

[DJ3100]

Back when I was running around in an 89 formula with a hot 400 SBC I would always tear 2nd gear out of the T5's Usually started with a grinding due to a mangled syncro, then secondary shaft whining in all but 4th gear, then carnage usually on a 6500rpm flat shift into 2nd...[cl

This T5 is rated somewhere in the 250 lb/ft range. The engine should be around 300 - maybe 325. It won't see anything over 4500 rpm very often, if ever. It should be OK for a while if I don't push it. I think the TKO 5 speed is a direct replacement if I ever need it.

Had jury duty today so didn't get much accomplished. I did get a chance to measure the resistance at the fuel sending unit. It's supposed to be 0 empty - 180 full. It reads 3 ohms and I just put 10 gallons in it. It worked when I put it in so, maybe it's stuck.

 

[Bamamav]

Reckon your float came off DJ? Or the arm got tangled up in the sending unit wires?

 

[DJ3100]

Reckon your float came off DJ? Or the arm got tangled up in the sending unit wires?

It will be interesting to see what actually happened. Hopefully, I'll get it out today and it's something easily fixable.

 

[I-R-POPS]

I had my sending unit out of my fuel cell 3 times before I got it to work right.
The problem with mine was the pivot point was too tight and binding up.
I put a longer screw thru it and double nutted it so I could leave alot of clearance in. I like to blame it on the stuff we get for gas not having any lubrication elliment in it.

Good luck with yours. I hope it's not a pain to get it out.

 

[DJ3100]

I had my sending unit out of my fuel cell 3 times before I got it to work right.
The problem with mine was the pivot point was too tight and binding up.
I put a longer screw thru it and double nutted it so I could leave alot of clearance in. I like to blame it on the stuff we get for gas not having any lubrication elliment in it.

Good luck with yours. I hope it's not a pain to get it out.

Thanks, I'll look for that issue. I have been thinking bad float. I have an access panel over the sending unit and pump. But I also didn't want it to leak when I put it in, so there may be issues with the gasket.

 

[DJ3100]

Fuel gauge sender

I love it when the problems is obvious. One of the mounting screws pinched and shorted the wire. Cut it shorter and put on a new terminal and it works!

Here are some photos of it in the sun.

 

[bob w]

Beautiful long roof, DJ,

 

[DJ3100]

Thanks, Bob

I still would like the front to get down where it belongs. It needs to be another 1+" lower for the lower A arms to be parallel with the ground. At this point I think the springs have probably settled all they are going to. I think the next step is to weigh the front wheels and get the proper front springs.

I'm working through the little problems and have been driving it in the mornings. We're still hitting 100 + degrees in the afternoons, so I haven't be too eager to take it out with no a/c, yet.

 

[Bamamav]

I love it when the problems is obvious. One of the mounting screws pinched and shorted the wire. Cut it shorter and put on a new terminal and it works!

I should have thought of that! Mine did almost the same thing, except it was the factory access door was touching the stud on mine. A couple of well placed blows with a ball pein gave me a bubble with clearance for the stud. I had forgotten about it until just now!

Car looks great out in the sun! [cl[cl[cl

 

[I-R-POPS]

I love it when the problems is obvious. One of the mounting screws pinched and shorted the wire. Cut it shorter and put on a new terminal and it works!

Here are some photos of it in the sun.

It's always nice to have a little good luck once in a while.
Your car looks killer outside. Nice job.

 

[Torchie]

All your hard work has paid off DJ. Congratulations. The wagon looks great. [cl[cl[cl
I would drive some more before putting in new front springs as you may still get that 1" you are looking for. From the pics it looks fairly level right. Are you going for a forward(California) rake?
Drive on........[cl
Torchie

 

[smallfoot]

You've done a fine job! that color looks great out in the sun...[cl

 

[DJ3100]

All your hard work has paid off DJ. Congratulations. The wagon looks great. [cl[cl[cl
I would drive some more before putting in new front springs as you may still get that 1" you are looking for. From the pics it looks fairly level right. Are you going for a forward(California) rake?
Drive on........[cl
Torchie

I am going for slightly down in the front, but mostly I would like to get the A arms parallel with the ground to reduce the bump steer. Now, it's up in the front slightly.

Driving it a while longer is probably a good idea, but the castor and camber is really bad, so I'd like to get it aligned. I think I got the toe within 1/8", but it doesn't coast well, so maybe not (might be those rear calipers are too tight). I'm concerned about what's happening with the tires.

 

[DJ3100]

Front springs

I have been thinking I might need to go with a lighter spring rate on the front. To figure that out I need the weigh on the front. So I made a 4-1 Ruggles scale and used the shop bathroom scales. Also needed something to hold the opposite tire at the proper height. Cobbled it up this am.

Each side weighs just over 900 pounds, about what I would expect and darn close the to estimate we used when I ordered the springs.

What I missed or had forgotten is the part of Speedway's spring description that says: " They will require cutting to the necessary length on the majority of applications. "

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Suspension-Front-Springs,45731.html

So, as Torchie suggested, I'll drive it for a while; then cut the springs to get the ride height.

 

[Torchie]

Nice job on the scale. I use the same system to weigh myself.
As I recall one coil usually equals about 1 1/2" in ride height. But I am sure with some research you can get a more accurate idea. Speedway my even have that Info.
In my misspent youth we used to "Torch" the springs to get them where we wanted it. I hear now from youngster that what we did was wrong of course but at that time it was a lot simpler then trying to get the coil spring out.
Torchie

 

[MercuryMac]

DJ, could you temporarily lower the front end somehow [like maybe add a bag of sand on each inner fender], and then look at the side view of your car.
You may find that you don't like a long car hanging in the front.
My opinion is it should be left where it is. You've done such a nice job making this car that I'd hate to see you take away from the good looks.
Keep on tinkering.

 

[soltz]

DJ, good job. kids are asking "why do i need to learn math?"

Torchie, i was just to lazy, got carried away one time and ended up with no spring, but it was low.[

MM, hard to get to low front or rear [cl

 

[DJ3100]

Until I put the springs in, I had a solid link in place of the shock which kept the car at the designed ride height, so I would be happy getting back to that height.

Did some serious measurement yesterday and the frame needs to come down 1/2" for the A arms to be parallel. I'm going to call that close enough for now. My plan is to get it aligned (today, if possible) and drive it.

The electronic speedometer is doing weird things, like showing 20 mph while it's sitting still. It is supposed to be wired to the speedometer output on the ECM. I have the wiring all bundled up, nice and neat. In the limited amount of time I had yesterday I couldn't find any of the wires that would help. That's looking like a time consuming fix.

I went after a fix for the power windows - always work on accessory; intermittent on run. Couldn't get them to not work. So, I left them alone.

Decided the cooling system is good. Drained a couple gallons of distilled water and added coolant. The air bleed that I put in the upper radiator hose came in real handy. Ran the motor with the bleed open until no air came out.

The only other thing on my list is the back up camera - haven't done any troubleshooting on that yet.