8literbeater
Well-known member
Holy smokes Dan. That thing looks amazing! I've been thinking the last few weeks that I wanted to come by and check out your progress. It looks like you've just about got it wrapped up.
1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser
- Thread starter DJ3100
- Start date
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8literbeater
Well-known member
Hey, for that crack in your glass, just use the old trick for the check engine lights and flashing 12:00 on the VCR. Cover it with electrical tape. You won't see it anymore.
DJ3100
Well-known member
I have the new piece of glass and the new master cylinder, but haven't done anything with the wagon for a while. Decided I need a break, so I have been working on anything that isn't car related. And I get annoyed when I see the cracked window, so I haven't been driving it, either.
I'm working on a change of attitude.
I'm working on a change of attitude.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
I feel your pain. Back in the day I would say "Bummer Dude" but I'm trying to mature a little.
I was feeling like I needed to do something else for a while and have been building a bullet stop and using my shop for an indoor pistol range to blow off a little steam.
Find you an outlet and then go back to your hot rod.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Update
The wagon now has over 1000 miles. The brakes decided to make peace or maybe I just got used to them - anyhow they stop the car in a hurry if necessary.
It drives and stops straight. Clutch works well. The 5.3 LM7 (iron block LS) is a great engine. Fun car to drive.
The third driver's window glass has not yet been installed. I think the cracked glass gives it a real '50's vibe.
I made a Damascus shifter and knob. Painted it with a small amount of body color in clear to give it some rust proofing and a little tint.
Most people don't notice the grille. Probably not too many even know it's not stock.
The wagon now has over 1000 miles. The brakes decided to make peace or maybe I just got used to them - anyhow they stop the car in a hurry if necessary.
It drives and stops straight. Clutch works well. The 5.3 LM7 (iron block LS) is a great engine. Fun car to drive.
The third driver's window glass has not yet been installed. I think the cracked glass gives it a real '50's vibe.
I made a Damascus shifter and knob. Painted it with a small amount of body color in clear to give it some rust proofing and a little tint.
Most people don't notice the grille. Probably not too many even know it's not stock.
Attachments
Old Iron
Well-known member
That is a beautiful car 
I bet it's a ball to drive [cl
I bet it's a ball to drive [cl
Torchie
Well-known member
I said it before and I'll say it again. It's a great looking car and was a great build to watch.[cl[cl
Here's to the next 1000 miles.
Torchie
Here's to the next 1000 miles.
Torchie
DJ3100
Well-known member
Update what's good and not so good
My wife hates dark interiors. She talked me into this light color - I wanted a dark brown or black. The light stuff is hard to keep clean and I feel like I need clean clothes to even get in. She's ridden in it once.
Shiny paint sucks - well keeping it clean sucks. The compliments are nice, though.
It rattles (it's a Ford and a wagon) and groans. The 9" whines. It's got a hot rod exhaust. But crank up the tunes and I can't hear any of those things.
Nobody ever told me how noisy a 9" is. They tell me they are especially noisy with 4 links and coil overs. If I had known, the Jag rear I have would be in service.
Aluminum steering wheel and steel shift knob - you cannot believe how hot they get after an hour in the sun. Actually the whole car thinks it's a greenhouse, especially when the temperatures were pushing 120 F. Tinted windows are in the future. The Gen IV Vintage Air keeps it really cold - if it was been in the shade. It has a hard time cooling it down when it's been sitting in the sun.
Changing the rear tires are a real challenge (found that out when I got a non-sealing screw in one). The wheel well cuts across just above the wheel's centerline. To get the tire off I have to jack The frame a long ways and remove the shock to let the axle drop enough to clear. No sense carrying a spare or a jack. I do have a AAA card.
The wagon's 5.3 motor has caused a problem in an unexpected way. I can't stand the 200hp 350 SBC that's in my '53 3100. Look for the engine swap in the not so distant future.
My wife hates dark interiors. She talked me into this light color - I wanted a dark brown or black. The light stuff is hard to keep clean and I feel like I need clean clothes to even get in. She's ridden in it once.
Shiny paint sucks - well keeping it clean sucks. The compliments are nice, though.
It rattles (it's a Ford and a wagon) and groans. The 9" whines. It's got a hot rod exhaust. But crank up the tunes and I can't hear any of those things.
Nobody ever told me how noisy a 9" is. They tell me they are especially noisy with 4 links and coil overs. If I had known, the Jag rear I have would be in service.
Aluminum steering wheel and steel shift knob - you cannot believe how hot they get after an hour in the sun. Actually the whole car thinks it's a greenhouse, especially when the temperatures were pushing 120 F. Tinted windows are in the future. The Gen IV Vintage Air keeps it really cold - if it was been in the shade. It has a hard time cooling it down when it's been sitting in the sun.
Changing the rear tires are a real challenge (found that out when I got a non-sealing screw in one). The wheel well cuts across just above the wheel's centerline. To get the tire off I have to jack The frame a long ways and remove the shock to let the axle drop enough to clear. No sense carrying a spare or a jack. I do have a AAA card.
The wagon's 5.3 motor has caused a problem in an unexpected way. I can't stand the 200hp 350 SBC that's in my '53 3100. Look for the engine swap in the not so distant future.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Thanks guys. It is a blast to drive.
I-R-POPS
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
Still the best wagon build I've seen.. The demascas shifter is kool. You ought to show us how to do that.
I too didn't know how noisey the 9'' rear ends were but I guess I've gotten used to it, I seldom notice it in my Dodge any more.
I too didn't know how noisey the 9'' rear ends were but I guess I've gotten used to it, I seldom notice it in my Dodge any more.
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Good to see you posting again Dan. Just a wonderful car with gorgeous colors.
So an LS for the pickup now.
So an LS for the pickup now.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
A great build and a great wagon as a result. It's got "the look".
DJ3100
Well-known member
Damascus shifter
The Damascus is 3/4" wide banding strap and mild steel sheet (1018) cut the same dimension as the strap. The paint is removed from the strap and everything is cleaned with acetone. I alternate materials until I have about 1" thickness- 20 -30 layers. There are lots of methods, I clamp the billet very tight and TIG fuse weld the perimeter leaving about 1/4" unwelded so any gases can escape. Weld a handle on the other end and saturate the 1/4" unwelded end with kerosene.
Heat it to something above 1800 F, hammer it until it is twice as long, then cut in half, Fuse weld the halves and hammer it again. This piece was hammered to a square cross-section and twisted. Then forged to the tapered shape of the shifter.
The banding strap is higher carbon than the 1018. When the billet is etched in acid or ferric chloride, the higher carbon gets darker than the low carbon. The longer it is left in the etch the more texture it gets, so you can feel the grain.
It's pretty easy if you have a power hammer, forge, TIG welder and have done a few (100+-) before.
The Damascus is 3/4" wide banding strap and mild steel sheet (1018) cut the same dimension as the strap. The paint is removed from the strap and everything is cleaned with acetone. I alternate materials until I have about 1" thickness- 20 -30 layers. There are lots of methods, I clamp the billet very tight and TIG fuse weld the perimeter leaving about 1/4" unwelded so any gases can escape. Weld a handle on the other end and saturate the 1/4" unwelded end with kerosene.
Heat it to something above 1800 F, hammer it until it is twice as long, then cut in half, Fuse weld the halves and hammer it again. This piece was hammered to a square cross-section and twisted. Then forged to the tapered shape of the shifter.
The banding strap is higher carbon than the 1018. When the billet is etched in acid or ferric chloride, the higher carbon gets darker than the low carbon. The longer it is left in the etch the more texture it gets, so you can feel the grain.
It's pretty easy if you have a power hammer, forge, TIG welder and have done a few (100+-) before.
DJ3100
Well-known member
Good to see you posting again Dan. Just a wonderful car with gorgeous colors.
So an LS for the pickup now.
Thanks Earthman, sometime you need to see it in person. And yup an LS derivative for the 3100, I think.
christcrusader13
Zip-Tie Mechanic
LOVE your ride! And that shifter is AMAZING! So If you come out to get in one day and it is missing, you may see if in my truck . GREAT JOB!
. GREAT JOB!
forbigpicture
Please stand by.......
Good to see an update DJ... Beautiful car, beautiful job!!!
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2015
- Messages
- 3,254
I love the shifter. I made a lot of damascus in the past and planned on making a pistol grip shifter for my cuda, but in the end I sold it before that was done
Personally I always try to start with some higher quality steel to get better contrast as I like the dark versus shine to really pop, but in this case I really like the subtle colors of the metal. nice work
got a picture of the top of the knob?
Personally I always try to start with some higher quality steel to get better contrast as I like the dark versus shine to really pop, but in this case I really like the subtle colors of the metal. nice work
got a picture of the top of the knob?
DJ3100
Well-known member
I love the shifter. I made a lot of damascus in the past and planned on making a pistol grip shifter for my cuda, but in the end I sold it before that was done
Personally I always try to start with some higher quality steel to get better contrast as I like the dark versus shine to really pop, but in this case I really like the subtle colors of the metal. nice work
got a picture of the top of the knob?
I use this material because it's free. Not the best stuff for knives, but it makes a nice wood grain effect. The knob was turned on the lathe, don't have a pic now, but I'll post one when I get it.
smallfoot
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
Lots of great work went into this build! The damascus is an added touch...[cl
