1955 Ranch Wagon Cruiser

[MercuryMac]

I questioned the fit and finish of those extensions, too DJ, but Torchies' right again. Here's some pictures of a '55, four door sedan that has not been apart.

 

[DJ3100]

I questioned the fit and finish of those extensions, too DJ, but Torchies' right again. Here's some pictures of a '55, four door sedan that has not been apart.

Wow thanks for the photos of an original. They take away the question about whether they were installed them wrong. I didn't know there was welting.

Those extensions are die cast so there isn't much one can do about reshaping them. Mine look OK from the inside.

 

[MercuryMac]

I thank you, DJ, for worrying about all of the other details on your car until you got them perfect. It is a shame about these details, but they are factory flaws, and die cast at that.
The only solution I can see is, to roll your car out to the end of your driveway and put a sign on it and I'll come along and take it away to dump for you.[dr[dr[ddd

 

[DJ3100]

I thank you, DJ, for worrying about all of the other details on your car until you got them perfect. It is a shame about these details, but they are factory flaws, and die cast at that.
The only solution I can see is, to roll your car out to the end of your driveway and put a sign on it and I'll come along and take it away to dump for you.[dr[dr[ddd

Depending on how it goes with the mechanicals I might take you up on that.

I started bleeding the brakes yesterday. It went according to expectation. Well, in my defense, all the joints didn't leak. Once I got all the offenders fixed, I couldn't get my vacuum fitting to seal on the bleeder screw (I think I have had this MightyVac for 25 years). I tried grease, then heavier grease, non-hardening PermaTex and wire ties. I tried every hose I had and multiple adaptors. The leak isn't just the normal small leak, it's too big to pull fluid. It does hold vacuum pressure when I put my thumb over the end, so the leak has to be where it mates to the screw.

I You Tubed it and saw a recommendation for silicon grease ("don't use petroleum grease it could damage your components" - too late) and another to wrap the bleeder screws in Teflon tape - not sure that's a good idea. I also went to the hardware store and got some other hose that might fit better.

I am confident I'll have it today. But if anyone has suggestions - fire away.

 

[DJ3100]

The Teflon tape bleeder screw threads combined with 3/16" id clear poly tube solved the problem vacuum leak problem. The tube cost $ .23 per foot at Ace. I have pedal; when I get a helper I'll pressure bleed the old school way to finish them off. And I'll keep looking for leaks, but I think all is good .

Next up the clutch - after breakfast.

 

[Torchie]

[P [P [P [P
Torchie

 

[DJ3100]

Couldn't figure out how to do the clutch by myself. So, the wife is done working for a while and she has agreed to operate the pedal, tomorrow. We'll see how that goes.

I did get the ball joints tightened, cotter pinned and greased. Bleeding the power steering was uneventful. I crossed a few other things off the list, too - just can't remember what they were.

 

[DJ3100]

The wife did great, not even any attitude. We got the brakes done - I think. At least all 4 calipers bled with no air bubbles.

I am using a hydraulic release bearing on the clutch with a Wilwood compact master. It holds 1.4 ounces in the reservoir, so refilling while bleeding needs to be almost constant. At any rate, I tried a couple different methods and got is to quit burping air. With a mirror I can see the bearing releasing, so I think its good.

The clutch pedal dropped about an inch in its natural position. It will work that way, but it doesn't look or feel right. I don't have enough adjustment to bring it up that far - so... [S

 

[soltz]

DJ, at this point your very good a fabbing stuff, piece of cake for you [cl

[S longer rod from peddle to piston [S

 

[DJ3100]

DJ, at this point your very good a fabbing stuff, piece of cake for you [cl

[S longer rod from peddle to piston [S

Yeah, it's not a big thing, just a little annoying.

I'm getting stoked about firing it up. Oil, water, and fuel - it should be ready to try. I would like to pre-prime the oil since it has been sitting for 2 years. Got a plan, if I can get to one of the oil galley plugs.

 

[bob w]

Adding fluids means you're getting close to the finish line.[cl

 

[DJ3100]

Adding fluids means you're getting close to the finish line.[cl

Well I thought so. I figured out that the problem with the clutch not returning was actually the clutch pedal bending. It's going to require major re-engineering. Tried to get pics, but they don't really show the problem.

But before that ... I was thinking that if I was going to go for a drive it would be nice to be able to open the doors from the inside. Then I found that one of the springs was broken and that I had a spring that I ordered for the latch, but it didn't fit the latch. It did fit the door - sort of (Pic 1). I tried every pliers I had and then ended up cutting a slot in an old socket (Pic 2). And finally inside door handle.

 

[DJ3100]

Priming the engine with oil

Been looking around on You Tube for ways to prime the engine oil. Decided on the path of least resistance - the garden sprayer. I found a plug that matches the oil galley plug in the oil pan tray at Ace. Picked up a 1/2 gallon garden sprayer while I was there. Drilled 1/4 through the plug then drilled and tapped for 1/4" pipe thread.

I had the fittings and tube. The 1/4 npt male screwed right on to the sprayer after the valve - sweet. I couldn't believe how well it worked; didn't spill a drop until I removed my fitting from the block, then oil came streaming out until I could get the plug in.

 

[DJ3100]

Here's an older photo of the clutch pedal assembly. Easy to see why it's bending, hard to see why I thought it would work when I did it.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Did you turn the motor while pressured?

Just curious. I don't know if it matters, but I was taught to turn the crankshaft two revolutions, by hand, so the bearings receive a coat of oil before cranking 'er on the battery/starter...

.

 

[DJ3100]

Did you turn the motor while pressured?

Just curious. I don't know if it matters, but I was taught to turn the crankshaft two revolutions, by hand, so the bearings receive a coat of oil before cranking 'er on the battery/starter...

.

Yes, it was surprisingly easy to get to the balancer bolt from below and spin it around with a ratchet. I pumped in about 1 1/2 quarts and turned it; then put in another 1 1/2 quarts. I only did a little more than one revolution - didn't know about the 2 turns.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

I spin the crankshaft twice (at least) to make one turn of the camshaft.

I've never tried your method... but I spin a stripped distributor (less cam gear) with a drill motor. Pan full, pump spinning, pressure on a gauge, roll the motor over.

Ignore me if I misunderstand... but in my mind, you pressure the oil system, maintain the pressure and rotate the assembly.

.

 

[DJ3100]

I spin the crankshaft twice (at least) to make one turn of the camshaft.

I've never tried your method... but I spin a stripped distributor (less cam gear) with a drill motor. Pan full, pump spinning, pressure on a gauge, roll the motor over.

Ignore me if I misunderstand... but in my mind, you pressure the oil system, maintain the pressure and rotate the assembly.

.

What you're saying about maintaining the pressure and rotating the assembly makes sense. I had pressure when I rotated just didn't go as far. The logic on the stuff I read, was to rotate it to uncover covered up holes.

As far as spinning a stripped distributor - that's what I have always done in the past. But, this engine has no distributor and no where to put one. The oil pump drives off the crank.

 

[Bamamav]

Easy fix on the clutch pedal. Weld an upright from the bend just above the pedal to the bottom of the bracket that the pushrod mounts to. If it still tries to bend add one from the top of that upward and over to the pedal arm. That will make one large triangle. You might also have to add rib or t section to the arm if it still twists the arm

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

What you're saying about maintaining the pressure and rotating the assembly makes sense. I had pressure when I rotated just didn't go as far. The logic on the stuff I read, was to rotate it to uncover covered up holes.

As far as spinning a stripped distributor - that's what I have always done in the past. But, this engine has no distributor and no where to put one. The oil pump drives off the crank.

My apologies, DJ. I haven't followed close enough to know you're working with a different design, ignorant as I am...

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