1956 F100 Angry Bird

[jclars]

Thanks Todd!

Attached is a pic of the front end now in place with inner fenders same aluminum color. It looks better with only part of the firewall glaring at you. I am thinking that I will maybe extend the color up to the curved area where the T-bird emblem is in order to eliminate the boxy look.

I'd be interested in any comments that might help me improve it. Yes, I am open to criticism.

Thanks,
John

 

[christcrusader13]

I like the way the color turned out it is subtle and gets the job done!

 

[blacksheep]

I like it. Kind of makes everything else visible under the hood.

 

[Todd]

Maybe try a scrap piece with some satin clear and see how that grabs you.

Or a summers worth of seasoning might do it.

 

[05snopro440]

I like the way the silver on the firewall blends with the patina up where the T-bird emblem is. I would leave that part alone.

 

[jclars]

Well, based on other peoples reactions, I guess it is growing on me...Thanks guys!

I did intend for it to set the unique engine off. But maybe I should have thought of a rusty scrap. Didn't even occur to me. Still getting used to this rat rod deal...

As you may have noticed, I shaved the radiator shroud up front. I have a flat cover that goes over it and I am thinking maybe to do that in the silver as well to help balance it out. It is easily changeable at least.

Thanks!

John

 

[animal]

Okay....here is something I did a few times. I painted the item silver, then used black, dark green, copper, whatever color(s) I thought would work best to "spot" the silver. You can play with a scrap piece to get the effect you want. I usually just used enough of the other colors to make it look like the original metal was pitted up, almost like old, discarded or hammered silver. I don't have any pictures (they're somewhere in the "guest house") but it tones down the silver and gives it a weathered, beaten look without actually being rusty or dirty. That's probably about as clear as mud...........................sorry.

 

[jclars]

I just couldn't project what it would look like in my minds eye (now that term dates me). But I can see potential with that technique animal. Perhaps with some fake rivets thrown in?

Next winters to-do list is starting...

 

[animal]

Yeah, I'm having a hard time explaining it....I just stayed back a ways and kinda let the paint droplets spatter the surface, without shaking the can much or anything. I put the spatter a little heavier in spots with the different colors, basically making a pattern of small paint drops that, when all together, looked like pits and imperfections in the metal. [S

 

[jclars]

I am finally current! Posting is now real time! And how fitting is it that I am doing the task that lured me to this website in the first place - the tech post on Peel n Seal!

At the time, I was considering the standard sound lining materials, having used Dynamat on a MGB several years ago. I got away with a single box on that project, only because the factory had somehow packaged 11 sheets of material in a box labelled for 9 pieces.

While comparison shopping for my truck, I ran across several hotrodder posts that mentioned the Peel n Seal product. So I did a brand specific search and there was RatRodsRule and their very informative webpage. I read the posts, and was sold on the product. AND the website!!

So here are pics of my soundlining job - and just like advertised - low cost, no smell, and lots of stickem. Finished the interior up to the lower window edge with 4 rolls or 50 Sq Ft. That includes a small amount to the door skin, but I will need to get one more roll to finish the doors.

Some tech notes of my own - Noticable difference in stick-ability by using a hair dryer. Even just a quick swish across the foil back after applying to the desired surface seems to somehow trigger the adhesive properties to the max. Found if you preheat it before application, you may not be able remove the backing paper because it sticks fast.

 

[jclars]

I knew I would get close this past weekend. Seats back in, rearranged seat belt hold down locations and managed to make them too short to snap. Can barely make a lap belt, so that will do for now.

Doors put back on. One replacement hinge from a swap meet last year was too wiggly, after I installed it of course. Had an extra one that was solid. Thought maybe the old latches would magically work better after solidifying the frame and cab mounts. Nah. Cant wait to get the bear claws in place.

Want the bed on with rear fenders before a true test run, so by Saturday night, realized it wasn't going to happen before Sunday, with rain in the forecast. (Hey, its Washington, what did I expect?!?)

John L.

 

[skull]

progress

looking like it will be driveable very soon[

Later

 

[jclars]

I did get the bed on, but it took a little more than just that piece of the puzzle. Last year I ran without any floor in the bed, and it got a great deal of attention with the IRS being visible. I kind of want to keep it open, so wanted to prep it with that in mind. Especially now that it is all trimmed in smoke gray, black and aluminum! So I found a couple of finished solid oak boards my wife had salvaged from the bank where she worked at the time. Must have been laying around our place for the last 20 years. But they were the perfect length and width. They also allow the perimeter of the bed to be anchored solidly, unlike last year where it was anchored at the corners and floated in between. These nice straight boards really helped line things up in the rear. Now thinking about a piece of 1/4" plexiglass that has also been laying around the place forever. Or maybe go with a hinged center panel in the bed, to expose the IRS and framework.

Anyone else seen this done for viewing purposes?

 

[05snopro440]

I did get the bed on, but it took a little more than just that piece of the puzzle. Last year I ran without any floor in the bed, and it got a great deal of attention with the IRS being visible. I kind of want to keep it open, so wanted to prep it with that in mind. Especially now that it is all trimmed in smoke gray, black and aluminum! So I found a couple of finished solid oak boards my wife had salvaged from the bank where she worked at the time. Must have been laying around our place for the last 20 years. But they were the perfect length and width. They also allow the perimeter of the bed to be anchored solidly, unlike last year where it was anchored at the corners and floated in between. These nice straight boards really helped line things up in the rear. Now thinking about a piece of 1/4" plexiglass that has also been laying around the place forever. Or maybe go with a hinged center panel in the bed, to expose the IRS and framework.

Anyone else seen this done for viewing purposes?

The IRS is cool but personally I would go with function here, so the hinged panel or just a regular bed floor. I wouldn't want to be crawling under the truck to clean grime off the bottom of my plexi floor. At least around here you would need to. Plexi bed floors always scream show off to me, but that's just my opinion. You're making great progress!

 

[jclars]

Plexi bed floors always scream show off to me, but that's just my opinion. You're making great progress!

Ha - I thought that is what this was all about - but at the same time, I hear you. I am leaning toward the functionality of a real bed, but with a hinged option for show.

However, I am going to jump ahead here. After a front end alignment last week, I scooted over to Harbor Freight to get a $17 pneumatic hacksaw to install some bear claw latches, and while at the check-out, I notice several people at my truck out in the parking lot. They were still there when I got out of the store and were talking about the IRS - two of them knew exactly what it was, having owned similar. One of them came up to the truck expecting a tricked out 302 and was so pleased when he saw a more modern engine and even better, looked into the bed to the matching IRS.

And these were young guys! They said that there had been 10 people around the truck at one point! I wasn't the show-off - my truck was! Without plexi-glass! But hey, isn't there a little bit of that attitude in all of us when we go about creating something like this? The best compliment from these young guys was how "bad ass" the truck was! Later that day, a pretty young tattooed gal said the same thing! If I had had a hood over the motor, and a bed in the back, I would have missed some great interaction with some young people who actually appreciated seeing ALL that had been done on the project!

That said, I really do want some functionality too...

Appreciate the feedback!

John

 

[Old Iron]

If that's what you're after just, raise the hood and the bed floor each time you go in somewhere [ddd[cl[P

 

[jclars]

Ha - what hood? (and so far, what bed?)

As long as we're covering it all up, I might as well paint it too!

 

[earthman]

For myself i like it the way it is. It's no longer a work truck anyway. Now it's a rolling metal sculpture for your own satisfaction and the enjoyment of people who see it right?

 

[jclars]

I mentioned earlier that I had my truck in for a front and rear alignment, following the rebuild of the suspensions over the winter months. I asked the shop to get hold of me just before the appointment so I could make sure the bags were full up to get on the hoist. When I got there, and pulled up to the hoist, I had to laugh. Someone had set up 15' of planks on a gradual slope up to the hoist! The owner had told them that I was low. It worked really well! Now that's service!

At the same time as the alignment, I asked the shop to see if they could get the rest of the air out of the brakes, as they were quite squishy and I couldn't get any pressure built up at all.

When I returned, they said that I had gotten all of the air out, because they could not get any more out. They started quizzing me about the winters rebuild and asked if I had taken the MC off the frame. Ah-ha! Had I bench bled it? Crap - it all came back to me as I visualized the original installation and the very explicit factory instructions.

So they kept it overnight and managed to do it while on the truck by lifting the front up high to get all the air to one place. Otherwise, it would have been a mess to dig that MC out!

It is so nice to have such good brakes! Stops quickly and surely. I now have a drivable truck again and will start to do some of the smaller, less critical details I have in mind (like maybe that hinged bed ).

Posts may get a little slower in coming as I need to catch up with some chores around the home! But I really enjoy this forum and appreciate all the good ideas and honest critiques so far!

Thanks!

John

 

[jclars]

Oops - first few details already happened over the weekend.

1.) Bear claw latches - too many popped doors going around the curves - caused some passengers a little distress.

2.) I also put new door seals all around. Really helped cut down on the road noise and rattly doors!

The combination of those two items really make for the feel of a solid truck! I think the only noise now is the occasional window rattle due to the bad window felt (details!!)

3.) The hood is on (but only for modelling purposes). As this hood is fatigued along the back edge and wont line up or lay down, I am going to...

do something with it...