31 chev 5 window

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started to mount my front spring
 

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just about every one of the builds on here has mentioned that you need to setup a solid axle with positive caster. Caster provides high speed stability, and has other benefits with bump steer, etc.

I imagine you can angle the bracket itself or weld in an angled shim plate.
 
Good info!

Thanks for the info on this, I should get around to building my frame sometime next year and know I know why this puppy needs a bit of a tilt!
 
Just a quick suggestion, with little to no weight those shackles should end up horizontal.
Fully loaded you should be at about 45 degrees, you want to have room for that spring to extend when compressed, and not bottom against your shackle mount.
 
like what you are building! I don't know if i like the spring perch though. I am building something similar. what front axle are you using? this is how i did our's(not finished yet).
 

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As mentioned before, and I learned this from the other guys, you need to have the shackles parallel with the axle unloaded. That way when the weight of the frame and engine is resting on it, it forces the shackles to go to a 45 degree +/- 3 degrees. Both of you need to push your spring perches outwards. This is how I did mine. Mind you, I am also using a Chevy axle. Another thing, flip your drag link around. If you are having clearance issues, you will need to get steering arms that push out past the kingpins. This will require larger wheels(at least 17's.) Otherwise the steering geometry is way off. I have to do some work to mine also so that my geometry is right. If you guys want more pictures or info, check out my build thread.

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As mentioned before, and I learned this from the other guys, you need to have the shackles parallel with the axle unloaded. That way when the weight of the frame and engine is resting on it, it forces the shackles to go to a 45 degree +/- 3 degrees. Both of you need to push your spring perches outwards. This is how I did mine. Mind you, I am also using a Chevy axle. Another thing, flip your drag link around. If you are having clearance issues, you will need to get steering arms that push out past the kingpins. This will require larger wheels(at least 17's.) Otherwise the steering geometry is way off. I have to do some work to mine also so that my geometry is right. If you guys want more pictures or info, check out my build thread.

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mine has been fixed. I thought i had a newer picture. I just had my spring re-arched to the right length, ordered some speedway perches, and shackles, and the shackles do sit parallel with the axle unloaded. mine is a 55 chev, 1/2 ton axle.
 
Hey thanks for the great pics, I saw your bulid from the start and its really looking good. I fixed my front shackels as well I will post pics soon, I got my body on the frame Friday channeled 5 inches over frame and slid back about 10inches from original to make sure a big block fits!! Time to start fabbing up the rear frame section to bolt up the jag rear end
 
Ok so I need some advice... I started to full weld my chop job, skipping around putting my hand on the steel and not welding again till it was cold. I still got warpage how do I fix???
 
The purpose of the hammering is to relax the metal after shrinkage from the heat. Plus with gas welding the weld it's self stays malable longer so you are also flattening the weld as well. Makes for less grinding.
Can't say that hammering flattens the Mig weld but it does help to relax the metal.
Jump around. Take your time. Even with hammering there may still be some warpage. And unless you are planning to only metal finish your roof you will be fine. Your chop is looking great. Nice fit.
Torchie.
 
Ok that's what I thought to do but thought I would pick rodders with more
Experience. It is not that far out just bugs me :)
I'm going to paint the body so a little filler will be no big deal.
 

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