Old Iron
Well-known member
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'34 Dodge Brothers, double build.
- Thread starter MercuryMac
- Start date
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Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
Good man, OI. [cl
Post them in the other place, too, huh?
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Post them in the other place, too, huh?
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MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Good man OI.
My cheeks are starting to dry already.
Thank you.
My cheeks are starting to dry already.
Thank you.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
OI, your second picture, [ the one with the aluminium tappet covers], triggered a memory.
A couple of years ago a couple of sisters showed up at A&W with a '56 T-bird with aluminium tappet covers and I took quite an interest. The thick aluminium quietened the ticking of those solid lifters and adjustable rockers set a 19 thou, so it sounded good.
Anyhow, today I went sideways a wee bit on the Dodge Brothers. I took the cross steer draglink off to see what I've got and what I needed to mount a rack and pinion cross steer set up. I haven't really got a plan yet. The draglink was really, really worn out. I did this today so I can order in the parts that I dream up and hopefully they'll get here about the time I'll need them.
A couple of years ago a couple of sisters showed up at A&W with a '56 T-bird with aluminium tappet covers and I took quite an interest. The thick aluminium quietened the ticking of those solid lifters and adjustable rockers set a 19 thou, so it sounded good.
Anyhow, today I went sideways a wee bit on the Dodge Brothers. I took the cross steer draglink off to see what I've got and what I needed to mount a rack and pinion cross steer set up. I haven't really got a plan yet. The draglink was really, really worn out. I did this today so I can order in the parts that I dream up and hopefully they'll get here about the time I'll need them.
Old Iron
Well-known member
I have always loved the bird on those covers.
You won't be disappointing in the rack.
I used one from a Dodge Omni and it fit well. People don't even notice it's on there.
You won't be disappointing in the rack.
I used one from a Dodge Omni and it fit well. People don't even notice it's on there.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
OI, I have some chrome tin Y-block covers. They have a decal glued on them. I think the decal is the word Thunderbird on a background of the 'bird'.
Today it's mid March and supposed to be getting ready for spring. It was -35C* or -30F* this morning,--- Torchie, what's with that, eh. It's bright and sunny outside, though.
Today it's mid March and supposed to be getting ready for spring. It was -35C* or -30F* this morning,--- Torchie, what's with that, eh. It's bright and sunny outside, though.
DozerII
Well-known member
-15c here snowing and we have a winter storm warning.
Old Iron
Well-known member
LOL I was bitching about the 43 we have today
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
Internal threads? External threads? Draw me a better picture, Mac. I can't imagine what you're doing. [S
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Old Iron
Well-known member
[P[P[P
05snopro440
Well-known member
Start wiping
That T-Bird has been one of my favourite gassers for a long time. I'd love one. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/t-bird-gasser-1955-ford-thunderbird-unusual-cool-starting-point-1960s-gasser-treatment/
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Doc, I've drawn a picture for you but let's see if I can get it on this thread. I have to talk to my machinist friends to see what they can and can't do. If there was an internal right hand, fine, 11/16 thread on there I could just screw it on to the end of the rack and pinion shaft.
With an external left hand, fine, 11/16 thread I could put a tie-rod sleeve over it and have ease of adjustment.
With an external left hand, fine, 11/16 thread I could put a tie-rod sleeve over it and have ease of adjustment.
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Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
I see. A tie-rod sleeve would be nice... a little graft job, perhaps...
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05snopro440
Well-known member
Could you find a tie rod end that would work and then just ream your spindle to the right taper? That way it would be easy to get replacement parts if needed? Just a thought.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Snopro, I have a brand new old stock Mopar tierod end and tried it but the spindle steering arm hole is too big and the taper is wrong. Also my cross-steer rack and pinion has a short rod out the right side so I need about 18" yet to get over to the wheel. There are probably long tierod ends with the right stud, but the parts man would have to do some impressive digging and with my luck of the draw I wouldn't get that type of partsman.
Doc. while I was explaining that I could go two different ways with the threading, this morning, I got thinking there might not be enough meat left over on the draglink if I lathed in 11/16 internal threads. Sure enough, when I measured the shaft, I would have paper thickness of metal so that's out. I will have to put external, lefthand, 11/16", fine threads on the end and get one of those turnbuckle sleeves.
Today I tackled the back of the front springs. The old hangers came out, with a bit of coaxing, but the new ones are trying my patience.
Doc. while I was explaining that I could go two different ways with the threading, this morning, I got thinking there might not be enough meat left over on the draglink if I lathed in 11/16 internal threads. Sure enough, when I measured the shaft, I would have paper thickness of metal so that's out. I will have to put external, lefthand, 11/16", fine threads on the end and get one of those turnbuckle sleeves.
Today I tackled the back of the front springs. The old hangers came out, with a bit of coaxing, but the new ones are trying my patience.
Old Iron
Well-known member
I had a taper and size difference on the tie rod ends I used too.
I took a piece of rod, drilled out the spindle for a pressure fit to the rod, drilled a hole thru it for the tip of the ream to start in, pressed the blank into the spindle and tacked the blank into the spindle. Took the correct taper ream for the tie rod and used an end mill to taper the inside of the blank then dressed the tack welds off so the tie rod nut had a flat surface to tighten up to.
I took a piece of rod, drilled out the spindle for a pressure fit to the rod, drilled a hole thru it for the tip of the ream to start in, pressed the blank into the spindle and tacked the blank into the spindle. Took the correct taper ream for the tie rod and used an end mill to taper the inside of the blank then dressed the tack welds off so the tie rod nut had a flat surface to tighten up to.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
That is an option, OI.
If I have to buy a tie-rod end then I should look for one that is the right size.
I'm still dreaming.
If I have to buy a tie-rod end then I should look for one that is the right size.
I'm still dreaming.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
After getting some parts and the nod from my machinist friend on threading my drag link, I imagineered my rack and pinion cross-steer setup and made a cardboard bracket to mount everything to the frame. It seems to take me longer to dream up a workable set-up than to make it. I've thought for a long time that a cross-steer rack would be easy to install. Well it might be on a Ford or maybe Mustang ll, but on a Dodge the parallel springs are in the road. Well the drivers one is. The unused end of the rack shoots out the left side quite a ways when you turn right, right into the left spring, if your not careful.
I also was building a bushing to shim the new bushings on the back of the front spring. That was going slowly.
I also was building a bushing to shim the new bushings on the back of the front spring. That was going slowly.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
As previously mentioned I made a cardboard template for my steering bracket, so now I transferred that to half inch steel and bored my holes in it. [pic one] Then I mounted my cross-steer set-up for the first time. [pic two and three]. The cross-steer aluminium bracket has a flare in the back of it at the bottom that I didn't take into account so I have to take it apart again and trim a wee bit.
