'47 Dodge shop truck

[MercuryMac]

I-R-POPS, I have learned that it's OK to weld teeth on something with acetylene or a stick welder, but don't build teeth with a MIG wire feed. You can file down the other welds to the shape you want, but the MIG stuff is too hard, you can't drill a hole in it or file it.
Dang fine truck you've got there.

 

[Skip]

I guess I had best try to rehab the regulator form my 38. It has steel teeth, and looks all good other than being frozen up. The one in the 39 was pot metal, and is nothing but a blob of corrosion now. No crank open windshield for the 39. Of coures, they are not interchangeable.

 

[I-R-POPS]

"Or maybe you could plasma cut a new gear."
[cl [cl [cl
Mmmmm wiring. The one step that brings life to a build.

I'm not that good and neither is my Plasma table!!

 

[AZRodDave]

Pops, that's not a truck, It's ART !!! Just like the other one.

 

[I-R-POPS]

Thanks guys. Still plugging away on this thing.

Wiring isn't my favorite, but I think I like it better than installing glass.... Great progress on the '47, it's looking really good.

This thing is all flat glass so it won't be bad.

I remember that fun last fall. I have a second regulator that works OK, at those prices I should try and list it. The gasket that goes around the outside of the windshield frame, I picked up from a power wagon place in Iowa I think. very reasonable. The glass guys did a silicone trick when they put the glass in the frame, I swore like a sailor try to use setting tape. Can't wait to get the chevy done and back on the dodge.

I really liked the rebel harness when I put it in the chevy. But, I like wiring too.

Yeah Rebel wire is the brand for me. This is the third one I've used and probably won't be the last.

I-R-POPS, I have learned that it's OK to weld teeth on something with acetylene or a stick welder, but don't build teeth with a MIG wire feed. You can file down the other welds to the shape you want, but the MIG stuff is too hard, you can't drill a hole in it or file it.
Dang fine truck you've got there.

I have a friend that says he can make a set of gears like that on a water jet table. When the time comes I'll give him a shot at it. Water jet is pretty precise I hear.

I guess I had best try to rehab the regulator form my 38. It has steel teeth, and looks all good other than being frozen up. The one in the 39 was pot metal, and is nothing but a blob of corrosion now. No crank open windshield for the 39. Of coures, they are not interchangeable.

I sure didn't expect the price to be as hi as it is for a replacement. For that kind of money I'll try lots of alternatives.

 

[I-R-POPS]

Pops, that's not a truck, It's ART !!! Just like the other one.

I don't know about art but thanks for the compliment.
Still having fun so still beating on it.

 

[DJ3100]

windshield regulator

$380 and 31 bids! That's insane. You'll be able to rebuild yours when the time comes. I bet there are off-the-shelf bevel gears that would fit, maybe even the flat gears, as well.

 

[I-R-POPS]

I decided to get my transmission cooler lines hooked up yesterday while
a little paint on the interior of the fire wall dried, before installing my fuse block.

Can any one tell me how much pressure is on the cooler lines? I'm thinking about using the rigid lines that were on the '99 Donor with rubber line at the cooler. Will rubber line clamped to the rigid hold?

I hate oil leaks but I don't want the expense of having rugger hoses made to go onto the rigid line ends.

Opinions????

 

[I-R-POPS]

$380 and 31 bids! That's insane. You'll be able to rebuild yours when the time comes. I bet there are off-the-shelf bevel gears that would fit, maybe even the flat gears, as well.

Insane is right!! I'd put a stationary windshield in before I'd pay that.
I guess that's the difference between me and a purist restoration type.

 

[Old Iron]

Not much pressure at all mainly flow.
If I might suggest the product to use is the Earl's pushon style hose and the barbed fittings to go along with them.
Compression to male flare for the hard line transition and male pipe to male flare to the radiator.
You'll not be disappointed or have leaks with this setup.
The rubber hose and clamps will eventually leak.

 

[DJ3100]

Not much pressure at all mainly flow.
If I might suggest the product to use is the Earl's pushon style hose and the barbed fittings to go along with them.
Compression to male flare for the hard line transition and male pipe to male flare to the radiator.
You'll not be disappointed or have leaks with this setup.
The rubber hose and clamps will eventually leak.

That's what I would use. I did use similar stuff (forgot the brand) on my fuel lines - easy to work with, not as pricey as the braided stuff.

 

[I-R-POPS]

Thanks Old Iron. That's what I need.

I was concerned about the small trans. cooler on the bottom of this radiator.
So I put on this finned cooler to help calm my fears of overheating transmission.

Things are getting tight on the drivers side as usual. A lot going on in that area.

 

[bob w]

It is tight but you did an outstanding job of fitting it all in there and making it look good.

 

[Skip]

When I was researching my trans cooler set-up, I read that it is best to use the cooler in the radiator to help warm the trans fluid up to operating temperature, then run it through the external cooler to keep it from overheating. A bit more complicated in the plumbing, and I had to sort out in and out on the trans lines, but it worked out.

Not as pretty as yours, but I am sure it will work.

I have used rubber hose and clamps for years without issue.

 

[DJ3100]

Could you skip the cooler in the radiator and just use the other one? It looks like it will catch a lot of air.

Strange seeing the starter on the driver's side. Where does the steering column go?

 

[Skip]

Could you skip the cooler in the radiator and just use the other one? It looks like it will catch a lot of air.

Strange seeing the starter on the driver's side. Where does the steering column go?

I think most people do skip the radiator, and I haven't heard about a lot of transmissions burning up from being too cold, so who knows for sure if it is a huge bid deal.

The advice I read made sense to me, because I figured the automotive engineers that designed the original set-up probably had some clue what they were doing. Where I work, most trucks have trans coolers in the radiator, but some really heavy duty applications have an additional cooler. Kind of like hot rods...

 

[jfg455]

Can any one tell me how much pressure is on the cooler lines? I'm thinking about using the rigid lines that were on the '99 Donor with rubber line at the cooler. Will rubber line clamped to the rigid hold?

Not sure on yours but most GM transmissions run right around 30psi of line pressure. I've never been a fan of the rubber hose / hose clamp idea on the trans cooler lines. I always use either hard line or some kind of fitting. Looks like you are getting close...[P

 

[Old Iron]

Trannies, without the lockup converters, create more heat from the fluid always being worked through the converter.
The trannies with lockup converters eliminate this process when locked up. As an added benefit, they run cooler while locked up.
I've ran my cooler lines all three ways, with and without going through the radiator and in series. All worked fine.
Sometimes you just can't hook all the hard lines to the after market coolers because, of their construction, so you have to use flexible.

 

[I-R-POPS]

It is tight but you did an outstanding job of fitting it all in there and making it look good.

Thanks Bob. I've got one more line to get in there and then a few wires.
Anything else is just gonna have to be in some other space. It's full up on the drivers side.

Could you skip the cooler in the radiator and just use the other one? It looks like it will catch a lot of air.

Strange seeing the starter on the driver's side. Where does the steering column go?

I thought about skipping the cooler in the radiator but it's there so I'll plumb it in.
The starter on the drivers side is a Dodge thing. I had the same space problem on my '48 dually.

The steering column fit in there during the last mock up. I hope it still does. I'll find out tomorrow.

 

[I-R-POPS]

I think most people do skip the radiator, and I haven't heard about a lot of transmissions burning up from being too cold, so who knows for sure if it is a huge bid deal.

The advice I read made sense to me, because I figured the automotive engineers that designed the original set-up probably had some clue what they were doing. Where I work, most trucks have trans coolers in the radiator, but some really heavy duty applications have an additional cooler. Kind of like hot rods...

Those automotive engineers were working with a 4x4 Dodge 3/4 ton pickup that was expected to pull heavy loads for extended times at freeway speed.

My little 1/2 ton cruiser is a different breed. I'm just using their power train.
I'm sure they would laugh at me using a '47 body on a '75 Camaro suspension and rear end, a' 60s frame., a carbureted '99 engine, a '95 transmission and torque convertor and who knows what else.

We are a weird bunch of hooligans aren't we?

Not sure on yours but most GM transmissions run right around 30psi of line pressure. I've never been a fan of the rubber hose / hose clamp idea on the trans cooler lines. I always use either hard line or some kind of fitting. Looks like you are getting close...[P

Yeah the clamps always seem to leak at some point and I hate leaks.
I've spent thousands of dollars because I saw a spot of oil under my vehicles.

I'm hoping to take a ride in this thing within the next 30 days. The anticipation is killing me.

Trannies, without the lockup converters, create more heat from the fluid always being worked through the converter.
The trannies with lockup converters eliminate this process when locked up. As an added benefit, they run cooler while locked up.
I've ran my cooler lines all three ways, with and without going through the radiator and in series. All worked fine.
Sometimes you just can't hook all the hard lines to the after market coolers because, of their construction, so you have to use flexible.

This transmission has overdrive and does have a lockup converter. I was told that they do run cooler but the radiator and cooler on the '99 donor was a lot larger than the radiator I bought to fit the dodge nose. Plus it had another trans cooler in front of the radiator. That just got me to thinking I might avoid a problem by adding the after market cooler.

I've decided to run both. It will really surprise me if I have a tranny heat problem on this little truck.

Thanks for all the input. You guys are the best.