'47 Dodge shop truck

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Shouldn't matter side to side as long as pinion and trans tailshaft are parallel and straight, the angle should be the same on both ends. Up and down should be the same also, 3* up on pinion, 3* down at the trans. You could actually have the driveshaft level since it has a side to side angle. The angle is used to make the U joints work to equalize wear on them.
 
Well shoot, tried to copy it all on here but the diagrams didn't copy. The diagrams can be found along with this narrative here:
Pinion Angle:
http://wolferacecraft.com/pinionangle.aspx

Pinion angle is the difference between the driveshaft angle and the pinion angle on the differential.
See bottom of page for pinion angle recommendations

To measure it you must be able to work under the car with the suspension fully loaded and the car level. You can place jack stands under the rear-end and under the front control arms (as close to the ball joint as possible). A drive on lift will also work for this.

There are two easy ways to measure your pinion, depending on the measuring device you have.

Protractor Measuring Device

Using an angle measuring gauge (adjustable protractor) to measure the difference between the pinion flange and the drive shaft directly. These gauges are available for under $10 from a hardware store.

Place the edge of the gauge vertically against the front of the pinion flange, beside the driveshaft.

Extend the measuring arm forward parallel to the bottom of the driveshaft.

Extend a straight edge under the driveshaft to the measuring arm of the angle gauge.

Hold the straight edge flat against the bottom of the driveshaft and adjust the measuring arm to read the angle.

Depending on the gauge you use, you may have to subtract 90° from your reading to get the correct number.

Your final measurement should be between 0 and 5.

Examine the diagram at the bottom to determine if the pinion angle is nose up or nose down.



Angle Finder Measure Device (Gravity type)

Using a gravity angle gauge (Available at hardware stores) to measure the angle between the driveshaft and the ground & the pinion flange and the ground.

Hold the gauge on the bottom of the driveshaft. Align the gauge front-to-back under the car in line with the driveshaft and read the number from the gauge (Note if angle is up{+} or down{-}). Write down this number.

Next, hold the side of the gauge against the front of the pinion flange (beside the driveshaft). Write down this number (Note if angle is up{+} or down{-}).

Subtract the first number from the second number. This is your pinion angle

Examine the diagram at the bottom to determine if the pinion angle is nose up or nose down.




Pinion Angle Recommendations:

Suspension Recommended Angle
Using Full Wolfe Race Craft Suspension - all solid mounting points. -1 to -1.5
Half Solid & Half Poly Mounting points -1.5- to -2.5
All Poly mounting points -2.5 to -3.5
All Rubber mounting points -3 to -4.5
The more you get away from having all solid mounting points the more the rearend is going to try and rotate upward during launch. Therefore the more angle you must start with to prevent the angle from becoming positive (+). The idea is that when the rearend rotates you want the angle between the driveshaft and the pinion would be 0.
 
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Thanks for adding the pix OI. I just noticed my copy and paste added 2 extra narratives so I deleted the extras.

Bama, generally speaking the angles are right. But on a build where engine height in the frame may change from stock location, it changes the pinion angle. Adjustments then have to be made for the pinion angle change or you'll get that harmonic vibration. U-joints will survive some off angles but you'll feel it on a cruise...
 
That was what I was trying to say. Trans and pinion angles need to be the same or close, just one needs to be positive and the other negative.
 
Thanks for the refresher course guys. I got the pick up on the lift today to check things out. the pinion to drive shaft angle wasn't even close. Someone must have changed it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I got it set where it should have been and it took care of the vibration but it has a noise in it like a wore out rear end. You let off the throttle and it feels like excess back lash and it has a distinctive howl to it.

Does a ford 9'' with posi sound like that? I wouldn't think it should.

So next I guess I'll pull the Speedway rear end and check gear lash, pattern and bearings.
 
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On the road again. I took the differential apart and I'm not at all impressed with Speedways rebuilt unit. The back lash was way excessive and the heal/toe pattern on the gear set was not even close. Got it set up right and all is good.

I did some adjusting to the stance to get the front grill up off the ground a little. It rubbed the road on a couple of occasions. That also let me go back to my taller tires on the front. Never did get to liking the smaller tires.

Mounted the torque thrust mags. Still need to get some screws for the caps on the front.

Next is the 408 stroker motor if I ever get my parts.
 

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looks good pops!

Thanks. It took 3 times longer than it should have but I guess I got nothing but time.

Stance, tires, and wheels look great. How's it ride? Is there an improvement over the leaf springs?

It rides as nice as my moms new caddy. I love it. The difference over the leaf springs is like night and day. Plus it's adjustable.
 
I hinged the bed floor for ease of access. It just makes things easier to check things out once in a while.
 

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