48 Plymouth

[MercuryMac]

Icebox, I am secretly working on a '46 Dodge D23 which is a rare rebadgeded P15, so is similar to your car. There probably are brake conversions at rustyhope.com. My local Mopar guru says the front end of those Dodges were very good, so you don't need to go to a lot of trouble changing them around. We are both putting big blocks in our cars though, so we might have to be careful. The reason I have to be secretive is that I have three other hot-rod projects started and not finished. That's breaking my own rules.
I don't seem to have the flat topped wheel well opening that Bam talked about, but here's how I'm correcting it. My car will be a tail-dragger with fender skirts.
Anyhow, I will be watching your car unfold and learning the tricks so when I come out of the closet on this Dodge project I'll be smarter.

 

[Bamamav]

That's what I was talking about on the rear wheel well. It just looks better to me if it's opened up on top, there is too much metal between the opening and where the fender bolts on with the stock opening. Those skirt lines are about what I think looks better on the Mopar wheel well.

Mercury Mac, we're gonna have to change your name to MoPar Mac![ddd

 

[MercuryMac]

Ya Bam, I can't even argue with you on either point, the sedan wheel wells are not round enough and I don't seem to be working on any Mercurys lately. To make things worse my 'builds' waiting list keeps going sideways and the Mercurys keep getting further away.
Sorry about hijacking your thread Icebox, but I gotta straighten Bam out once in a while.
Keep working away on that Mopar.

 

[icebox]

Do you guys know of anyone that makes floors for this car?

 

[hansgoudzwaard]

Floors

Do you guys know of anyone that makes floors for this car?

Saw a reference to this on an online forum. Apparently, still requires a lot of fitting and snipping.

I haven't used them so I would not know.

http://www.c2cfabrication.com/collections/all/dodge+1948

 

[Torchie]

IB.
Here is a link to a build thread over on the HAMB. This guy is putting an entire floor in his car and fabing it using just basic hand tools and a lot of creative thinking. More time involved but but most likely less out lay up front.
Torchie
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1939-mercury-build.981440/

 

[icebox]

Change of plans .For Chrictmas I bought the wife a Parts car. I got it for the motor and tranny . It is a 1989 Chevy Caprice Classic . It ran good and shifted good. I got it for less than I was going to pay for the tranny. Plus Now I can keep my big block . I put my 50 Ford outside so l could bring the Caprice in. Need to get the engine and tranny out. Then get the Plymouth in. Still need to find more info on the rack swap.

 

[falconvan]

Change of plans .For Chrictmas I bought the wife a Parts car. I got it for the motor and tranny . It is a 1989 Chevy Caprice Classic . It ran good and shifted good. I got it for less than I was going to pay for the tranny. Plus Now I can keep my big block . I put my 50 Ford outside so l could bring the Caprice in. Need to get the engine and tranny out. Then get the Plymouth in. Still need to find more info on the rack swap.

There was a company making floor pans but they were really expensive. I built mine from flat sheet metal on a 51 Plymouth I did and it looked good when finished. The R&P swap is easy if you have a decent MIG and are comfortable with welding. I've done two, the first used some brackets that came as a kit, the second one I did I made my own brackets. But truthfully, the stock steering is fine if your steering box is in good shape and now that you're using a small block, you can make it fit with the stock steering.

 

[icebox]

Finally got the motor and tranny out of the Caprice .It has been in the garage for several weeks. I tweeked my back and didn't feel like working on pulling the motor for the last 3 weeks. The wife and I used the tractor and got the 46 in the garage Sunday. She started taking the interior out. Does anyone know how to get the door handle and window crank off of the door?
The motor has a throttle body fuel injection on it now. The plan is to put a new intake and Holley on top of it. Looks like I found a spot to spend some of my overtime money . Not sure if I am going to put a new cam in it or not. It is just the wifes cruiser and not a speed machine.

 

[Torchie]

They may be pinned like the Fords were. Push back the trim ring if you can and look for a pin.
Use a small nail or pick to drive it out.
Torchie.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

You need a trim removal tool to get the GM door handles & window cranks off. Available at any parts store...

 

[soltz]

You need a trim removal tool to get the GM door handles & window cranks off. Available at any parts store...

Thats probably the best way, it's an "e" clip thing, i use a small pointed tool and work at it, more time than money. [S

 

[icebox]

Torchie was right they were pinned in . the door panel had a spring behind it . I pushed the panel in and the wife pushed the pin out. She said she was cold and went back into the house. I stayed out in the garage and took the whole interior out.The plymouth even came with the optional heater

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[Bamamav]

Galvanized patches or is that something else? Rest looks pretty good.

 

[icebox]

Those are two patches. That whole front piece is bolted in. I wish I could fine one to replace it .

 

[icebox]

I am going to order some steel for the floors . I was going to use 20 gauge . Is that the right gauge? on the truck I just used a fuel oil tank .

 

[Old Iron]

Ya want at least 18ga

 

[icebox]

Thanks

 

[Torchie]

I agree with OI.
I used 16 gauge on mine but it was flat and when I had to bend it over I used a hand sledge and a thick piece of angle iron. You could get away with 20 gauge but you would need to have a bead roller to roll in some stiffening ridges or weld in some bracing.
18 is more manageable when working with just hand tools.
Torchie