50 Chev Truck cab rear body line help

[Moon]

G'day to all from DownUnder. Hoping someone might be able to give me some ideas as to a good way of repairing the rear body line on my cab, just below the rear window. Don't know if anyone makes these as a replacement stip or not, but it would be great if there was. These old trucks are hard to come by here in Australia, not to mention the price people want for them, so finding another body I could take this from is out of the question, so open to all & any info on good ways to overcome this problem. Hope to put up some pics of my build soon to share.
Cheers,
Moon.

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[smallfoot]

You could use sheet metal and a piece of pipe to use as a bending aid through the straight part. Same action through the curved sides but you'll have to make cuts along the edges to help in making the bend. Make your shape the best you can and leave a small apron on each side, then butt weld the piece in.

 

[Torchie]

You could use sheet metal and a piece of pipe to use as a bending aid through the straight part. Same action through the curved sides but you'll have to make cuts along the edges to help in making the bend. Make your shape the best you can and leave a small apron on each side, then butt weld the piece in.

Agree with smallfoot.
To my knowledge this section is not reproduced.
Look at using a pipe or a piece of wooden Moulding or anything that matches or comes close to profile that you need. Or using a piece of wood make your own buck that is an exact match as this reveal also continues around to the doors as well.
Make the piece some what longer than you need and as smallfoot said some relief cuts that will allow you to make the curve. Then get to welding.[ [ [
Look around on this site and you will see lots of metal fab work done with just some basic hand tools and lots of ingenuity.[cl
smallfoots build and others are a great example of that.
Good luck and have fun. And by all means. Start up a build thread.
Torchie.

 

[radford46]

What made it do that? Did the down under version have a piece of chrome strip there? Just a different spot to corrode that much.

 

[Moon]

Thanks for the input guys, very much appreciated. I thought that might be the only way to go, guess I got to get busy & try to find something close to the right shape.
Radford46- Don't know why it was so bad in this area, there was no chrome strip. It looks as though water has gotten in behind it somehow during it's time sitting out in the open weather. but the top of the lower skin isn't as badly affected, although it is still rusted, but still useable.
Anyway thanks again for the advice all,
Cheers.

 

[23crate]

hey Moon ,,

just over the ditch in NZ.. panel b by trade..

I wondering if you could locate some sheet metal folders ( even at a local shop) they may be able to give you advice,

id be looking to fold that section by way of small increments or bends, -it is do-able and a little time consuming not forgetting to reverse the sheet for the top of the swage. it may take a few practice bends with some smaller pieces - to get the swing of it.

measure from door shut to door shut , and divide in half, should give around 1 meter, make your replacement in 2 halves, as previously mentioned cut to wrap for corners . don't be afraid to rivet or use small self tappers to hold the panel firmly. these holes can be welded later.
lots of measuring .
when welding keep you welds short say 3cm, and distant (20cm apart ), this will help to lessen distortion

does it have a join between two sheets at that rusty point?,, will also need to reconstructed for overall panel strength . you can use a good stiff card for patterns, or some thick paper.

hope that helps

Bathurst Weekend should be a goody !!
crate

 

[Moon]

Hey Crate, thanks for the advice. I do have a mate with his own BIG folder, if all else fails, i'll give your method a try, I like the sound of it & enjoy learning to overcome these types of little challenges. Thanks heaps
Moon

 

[Old Iron]

With a bead roller and a shrinker, you can make what you need.
This is the die that you would need. If you turn the die around it'll make the curved edge.
The shrinker will make the corners then, run it back thru the bead roller to smooth.
Or, cornfield customs could make the piece cut it in half and ship it to you.
http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32228&highlight=cornfield

 

[Skip]

Something else for my wish list. [dr

With a bead roller and a shrinker, you can make what you need.
This is the die that you would need. If you turn the die around it'll make the curved edge.
The shrinker will make the corners then, run it back thru the bead roller to smooth.
Or, cornfield customs could make the piece cut it in half and ship it to you.
http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32228&highlight=cornfield

 

[Yankee Transplant]

would you think a piece of 2 1/2 or 3 inch tailpipe would be close to the same bend ? you wouldnt have to form it a lot . but then again it may be to thick to work with . Or maybe find a thinner pipe to work with [S I think I would cut it out 2 or 3 foot at a time to keep it strait . JMO
Old Iron that would be the ticket and the best way to go if he had any friends or new of a place with sheet metal tools

 

[Flipper_1938]

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-Rear-Cab-Outer-Window-Panel/productinfo/44-002/

You might try and contact them to see if they have any mis-stamps where the top is messed up, but the lower is ok or a part that is damaged that they would sell at a deep discount.

 

[studebaker59]

I have a cab I'm going to scrap, I would cut out the panel and give it to you. If you cover shipping.

 

[hansgoudzwaard]

If you use parts of a junkyard roof, panels/pieces could be cut to fit. Use paper patterns?

 

[Moon]

Can't thank you guys on here enough, all your ideas on this a GREATLY APPRECIATED [cl
So glad this site exists, such a wealth of information & advice, not to mention inspiration!! MANY MANY THANKS to you all,
& Studebaker59, I have sent you a message, please let me know when you get it.
Cheers all