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Great find on the paper work IB.[cl
My 2 cents on the lights.
I would go with the longer ones as well. Either will work but the longer ones add to the COOOOOOOL factor.:D
Torchie.
 
Haven't done any more on the truck. I wanted to have it Running/moving/stopping for a small local show but I fail . I did go though. The rat rods were well represented there were 6 I believe . There were only about 70 cars. I should of took some pics. One was a guy I sold my original F-11 frame to. I have been working on a tool for the rat rod though. I wanted nice straight brake and fuel lines. So I built a tubing straightener . I sort of copied the one Eastwood sells for $200.00 . I did it by hand with a scribe and a file.The wheels are casters I took apart and trued them up on the lathe.Then I turned a curve in each one. I had all of the parts out in the garage The only money I spent on it was to buy a 8mm. tap.It works great .
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Hunting season is over so it looks like I can get back out into the garage . I have most every thing to finish . Now I just need to do it.
icebox
 
IB, My vote is for the longer headlights, not because they're the nicest looking, but because you can mount old looking signal lights on them from Juliano's, and be cooool. Actually, you may be able to fit the curve of the little piggy-back lights on the short buckets also. The longer ones are cooler, though.
 

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Well I have finally got back to working on the truck. I need to buckle down and get this thing done. I want to take it up to St. Ignace to the auto show in the last weekend in June. I have most all of the parts I need to finish it . Friday I worked on a few things. I finally made the front tires move when the steering wheel was turned.and I worked on the shocks. I bought a set of 1950 F-100 front shock mounts. I had to shorten them 7/8 th. of an inch to make them work .I also used a 82* countersink on the mount holes . So I can use flush mounting bolts . I copied Mike at Cornfield Customs did it.I made steel slugs to weld into the frame so it would be stronger. For the bottom mounts I took the old ones and cut the spoon shaped part off. Then welded a 1/2 inch bolt to it. The steering shaft was to short so I had to weld the two pieces together. I turned to one end down and bored the other an pressed them together. I then welded them together. Then I turned it back down to 3/4 made a sleeve to go over the weld and rosette welded it on. Then turned it on the lathe to clean it up. It will never be seen inside of the column but I wanted it to look good.
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Either lights you use, i would like to see them up on stands so they are not on the frame.
Positioning for the right look is important with lights.
 
Tore the steering box apart today. It had a lot of play in the output shaft. It had a broken cover and the bushing was shot. It is out of a 1963/4 F-100 Having a hard time finding parts. Any help would be appreciated


Earthman
The lights will be on risers . I am going to make them like my shifter.
 
Tore the steering box apart today. It had a lot of play in the output shaft. It had a broken cover and the bushing was shot. It is out of a 1963/4 F-100 Having a hard time finding parts. Any help would be appreciated


Earthman
The lights will be on risers . I am going to make them like my shifter.

I approve :D
 
Well not sure if I found one or not now. I called the guy to see if he had it off yet. He said he is taking it off of a 1961 but the way he described it to me it sounds different. He said he didn't have to remove the pitman arm . I said how did you get it through the frame . hHe said it doesn't go through the frame. Well mine does .
 
IB. I can't remember what frame you used. Not the stock F series was it. If so then the arm goes thru the frame..
Post up a pic of your current steering box and I will see if it looks like the F-series box that I have here.
Torchie
 

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