Nice.
'56 Ford Club Sedan Mild Custom
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animal
Well-known member
Thanks!
animal
Well-known member
Front Suspension Redux
As some of you know, I had front lower ball joint failure on the Ford. Upon disassembly, I found both ball joints on the passenger side to be nearly impossible to move by hand. They seem to be "grinding", almost bound up. I got all new Moog parts for both sides to replace the new no-name parts I installed less than 4,000 miles ago. I'm replacing tie rod ends as well. While everything is apart, I'll be installing Viking double adjustable coilovers. I probably don't need all that adjustability, but like the bearings as opposed to poly urethane bushings, and I got the wrenches and Torrington bearings in the kit. The o ly thing I noticed is that on their ad, they say you can install them on stock lower control arms, but in the instructions it says not to mount them to a surface less than 3/16" thick. The lower shock mount area on the stock lower control arm isn't even close. I guess I'll make some spacer plates and tack them in place to make sure the mounting thickness is sufficient. No pictures other than one of the shocks ..I'll post more as things go back together.
As some of you know, I had front lower ball joint failure on the Ford. Upon disassembly, I found both ball joints on the passenger side to be nearly impossible to move by hand. They seem to be "grinding", almost bound up. I got all new Moog parts for both sides to replace the new no-name parts I installed less than 4,000 miles ago. I'm replacing tie rod ends as well. While everything is apart, I'll be installing Viking double adjustable coilovers. I probably don't need all that adjustability, but like the bearings as opposed to poly urethane bushings, and I got the wrenches and Torrington bearings in the kit. The o ly thing I noticed is that on their ad, they say you can install them on stock lower control arms, but in the instructions it says not to mount them to a surface less than 3/16" thick. The lower shock mount area on the stock lower control arm isn't even close. I guess I'll make some spacer plates and tack them in place to make sure the mounting thickness is sufficient. No pictures other than one of the shocks ..I'll post more as things go back together.
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Torchie
Well-known member
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Torchie
Torchie
earthman
Fascinated by rolling objects!
Yep, going to be better this time around.
soltz
The Rat Captain
Over building is good!!! [cl
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Old Iron
Well-known member
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05snopro440
Well-known member
I'd like to put coilovers on my 62, but my concern was the thickness of the control arm as well. With the prices of new tubular arms getting much more reasonable, it might just be worth it to go that way. I'm interested to see how yours works out.
If the ball joints were stiff, they definitely could have been binding up and trying to force the nut off.
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
With respect... spread the word, Larry! Those cheap parts nearly cost you your life!
For the love of god, don't buy any more eBay parts of unknown origin. If I were you, I'd fully plate the original control arms, unless you can find and afford a quality tubular arm made on this continent.
I never thought of that, but you're right. If the ball joint was piled up, the stud would turn inside the spindle and therefore, turn back and forth inside the seated nut... that kind of action could chew off a titanium cotter pin...
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animal
Well-known member
With respect... spread the word, Larry! Those cheap parts nearly cost you your life!
For the love of god, don't buy any more eBay parts of unknown origin. If I were you, I'd fully plate the original control arms, unless you can find and afford a quality tubular arm made on this continent.
I never thought of that, but you're right. If the ball joint was piled up, the stud would turn inside the spindle and therefore, turn back and forth inside the seated nut... that kind of action could chew off a titanium cotter pin...
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I'm with you, Doc! No more no-name parts. I realize not all Moog parts are made in the USA anymore, but at least they are made to Moog's standards (hopefully). I got lucky...all four ball joints I bought for the Ford say made in USA on the box. The Moog tie rod ends will be here tomorrow.
I'll make a plate to cover the area where the shocks mount and cover as much as I can, then weld it to the control arm. I honestly think that should be plenty. The coilover bolts in from the top, so I can cover up the hole originally used to remove the stock shock absorber and just drill the two holes for the coilover mount.
I'm battling a severe case of Plantar Fasciitis and going to therapy twice a week. When I get home from therapy, I'm pretty much done for the day. I'm hoping I can get out to the garage Friday and spend the weekend on the front suspension. Getting old ain't for sissies.
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05snopro440
Well-known member
Yeah, when I said the arms are getting cheaper I was referring to the nice stuff made by companies like Ridetech, Global West, and UMI.
http://www.globalwest.net/
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/
That too, if that's the case you would probably see wear on the spindle. What I was thinking was during suspension action, if the ball joint is stiff it's going to put extra upward force on the nut against the threads.
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
I'm glad you're no offended by my post, Larry. The old adage, "You get what you pay for" applies... again, I'm happy you lived to tell the tale!
I understand that's a painful affliction. My brother had it and I hope you can work through it, if it's possible.
Understood. Unbeknownst to me, a "fringe friend" sent his ill-handling, bagged, MII suspended disaster to a shop for a complete "undoing". (Had I known, I could have helped solve the problems.) Anyhow, the car came back chock-full of RideTech components and despite the cost, I was wholly impressed.
My comment was aimed at persons who buy Speedway and eBay crap on price alone. If RideTech wants $200 for a single control arm and Johnny Blow Hard Hot Rods wants $200 for all four, there's a significant difference...
.
I understand that's a painful affliction. My brother had it and I hope you can work through it, if it's possible.
Understood. Unbeknownst to me, a "fringe friend" sent his ill-handling, bagged, MII suspended disaster to a shop for a complete "undoing". (Had I known, I could have helped solve the problems.) Anyhow, the car came back chock-full of RideTech components and despite the cost, I was wholly impressed.
My comment was aimed at persons who buy Speedway and eBay crap on price alone. If RideTech wants $200 for a single control arm and Johnny Blow Hard Hot Rods wants $200 for all four, there's a significant difference...
.
Old Iron
Well-known member
05snopro440
Well-known member
I'm with you. If you want to buy a budget fuel pump or radiator, go for it. Parts that, when they fail, won't potentially cause a hazard to other highway users are just fine with me if that's what you choose to do. However, suspension and steering parts, driveline parts, and wheels and tires shouldn't be skimped on. Anything that is somewhat responsible for the control between your vehicle and the road, cost shouldn't be the major consideration when buying the parts.
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
You guys have triggered a rant from me.
There are lots of people out there that, after a lifetime of acquiring wisdom, [making mistakes and learning from them], still giggle and chortle all the way home with their new purchase, [a $50.00 item for $2.36]. But anger flares up when the piece breaks while they are unwrapping it. These people are not angry at the real villain, no, no, no, they are angry at the store that sold them the crap. ------ You get what you pay for.
End of rant.
There are lots of people out there that, after a lifetime of acquiring wisdom, [making mistakes and learning from them], still giggle and chortle all the way home with their new purchase, [a $50.00 item for $2.36]. But anger flares up when the piece breaks while they are unwrapping it. These people are not angry at the real villain, no, no, no, they are angry at the store that sold them the crap. ------ You get what you pay for.
End of rant.
05snopro440
Well-known member
Something I was told a lot while I was a kid has served me well "If it seems too good to be true, it probably is."
MercuryMac
Builder Junky!
Right you are, Snopro.
I don't mean to be offensive to you animal, I'm sorry. I was as surprized as you are to see a new ball joint fail. That was the second best place for it to break, though. Nothing ever breaks down in the best place, right by the shop.
I don't mean to be offensive to you animal, I'm sorry. I was as surprized as you are to see a new ball joint fail. That was the second best place for it to break, though. Nothing ever breaks down in the best place, right by the shop.
animal
Well-known member
I may have to sell the '56
July has been a tough month for us...I developed Plantar Fasciitis that makes it hard to stand or walk much...then I developed a mysterious inflammation that causes muscle and nerve spasms in my neck, shoulders and back.and yesterday a big chunk of one of the exterior adobe walls of our house fell out, exposing some really serious structural problems. Long story short, I think I need to get the front end fixed, have an alignment done, then sell the car to help finance a trailer house so we'll have a place to live after we knock the house down. I may need to go back to work, as well, if anyone will hire a 67 year old who can't walk or turn his head. I wonder what a 67-year-old "gently used" kidney is worth on the open market these days.
If things work out (and I win the lottery), I'll post any further progress on the car here. If not, I'll post a for sale ad in the appropriate thread.
July has been a tough month for us...I developed Plantar Fasciitis that makes it hard to stand or walk much...then I developed a mysterious inflammation that causes muscle and nerve spasms in my neck, shoulders and back.and yesterday a big chunk of one of the exterior adobe walls of our house fell out, exposing some really serious structural problems. Long story short, I think I need to get the front end fixed, have an alignment done, then sell the car to help finance a trailer house so we'll have a place to live after we knock the house down. I may need to go back to work, as well, if anyone will hire a 67 year old who can't walk or turn his head.
I wonder what a 67-year-old "gently used" kidney is worth on the open market these days.If things work out (and I win the lottery), I'll post any further progress on the car here. If not, I'll post a for sale ad in the appropriate thread.
Difficult circumstances Animal. Wish you the best with the health issues. Any way to repair your house and avoid a costly replacement.
I hope things will get better for you. Good thoughts sent your way.
