'65 Rover Half Cab

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I salvaged the receiver portion of a trailer hitch that was purchased used for my big truck but didn't fit. It goes through the 2" by 4" crossmember and is welded on both sides. Added diagonal braces to firm things up back there.
 

Here's what it looks like with the box in place. There will be a slpit bumper made from either 2" by 3" or 2" by 4" rectangular tubing. I'd use formed channel if there was some available locally.
 
Reminds me of when I was about 10 years old. My uncle had one of these Land Rovers (stock 4x4 4cyl) and he borrowed our car trailer. Mind you the car trailer was about 3000 lbs empty as it was made out of 8"x8" box steel and 10K axles...we were coming down a hill into some S bends and that's when we realized the trailer was driving the Rover! :eek: needless to say the next time he borrowed the trailer he took the 1 ton too...Lol [cl
 
Reminds me of when I was about 10 years old. My uncle had one of these Land Rovers (stock 4x4 4cyl) and he borrowed our car trailer. Mind you the car trailer was about 3000 lbs empty as it was made out of 8"x8" box steel and 10K axles...we were coming down a hill into some S bends and that's when we realized the trailer was driving the Rover! :eek: needless to say the next time he borrowed the trailer he took the 1 ton too...Lol [cl
LOLz
I built a race car trailer. Single mobile home axle. No suspension. It was for short hauls to the race track a couple miles away. My little brother had starter trouble with his '66 Cheby 3/4 ton. So he borrowed the trailer, hooked it up to his Courier PU, hauled the Chevy home. Hed did mention that it got a little squirrely at around 25 mph. Glad he drove slow. [S
 
Hitch looks like it belongs there! Bob you have alot of surface to play with back there. You gonna do stock lights or figure something custom?
 
Yes, I'm concerned about using an aluminum bodied, 88" wheelbase Rover as a tow vehicle.The dragster weighs 1,600 pounds and the trailer is light at about 700 pounds. I know if I slow down in a curve the trailer will push the Rover. Even if I can't tow the dragster with it it will be handy to have a hitch for towing my little trailer made out of a Model A box.
smallfoot, I bought 4 LED tail lights for a '39 Chevy, not including the torpedo housings. They are very close to the stock Lucas lights that are on Rovers.
Thanks for the kind remarks, guys.
 
Seems to be coming along very well. That hitch certainly looks beefy enough. Sure do enjoy watching your projects and learn a lot from you as well. Thanks.
 
Yes, I'm concerned about using an aluminum bodied, 88" wheelbase Rover as a tow vehicle.The dragster weighs 1,600 pounds and the trailer is light at about 700 pounds. I know if I slow down in a curve the trailer will push the Rover. Even if I can't tow the dragster with it it will be handy to have a hitch for towing my little trailer made out of a Model A box.
smallfoot, I bought 4 LED tail lights for a '39 Chevy, not including the torpedo housings. They are very close to the stock Lucas lights that are on Rovers.
Thanks for the kind remarks, guys.

Two words: Trailer Brakes

Good trailer brakes will slow down the tow vehicle. Dad has a trailer with brakes on two axles. It is a little extra money up front, but way better than getting squashed by your toys!
 
Two words: Trailer Brakes

Good trailer brakes will slow down the tow vehicle. Dad has a trailer with brakes on two axles. It is a little extra money up front, but way better than getting squashed by your toys!

^^^2^^^ I'm not towing much anymore. Retired my F350 puller and use an under powered c10 with trailer brakes while pulling loads that out weigh my truck. If the pulled weight is more than the puller, that's the only way to go.
 

Small steps lately. I extended the rear crossmember to both sides to accomodate the full width of the box. Cut out the unsavable rear panels and left a 2" flange for attaching new aluminum. I think I'll try construction adhesive. Removing the rear panels provided more access to the lumpy rear box sides. I'm makeing some progress there ironing them out. Will probably have the box and doors sand blasted soon.

After this there is just reassembly and it should go smoothly (famous last words).
 

Small steps lately. I extended the rear crossmember to both sides to accomodate the full width of the box. Cut out the unsavable rear panels and left a 2" flange for attaching new aluminum. I think I'll try construction adhesive. Removing the rear panels provided more access to the lumpy rear box sides. I'm makeing some progress there ironing them out. Will probably have the box and doors sand blasted soon.

After this there is just reassembly and it should go smoothly (famous last words).

Hey Bob, great work as always. I'd like to offer some advice if you don't mind. I noticed your thinking of trying construction adhesive to bond those panels. I'm pretty sure that won't hold for very long, as it's not formulated to bond metal. You will have much better luck with a product like Fusor 108B metal bonding adhesive. It does require a special gun to apply it, but if you have a good relationship with a local body shop they should have something like this and may let you use it.
 

Thanks rodguy1. Dr. C also suggested Fusor. Now thinking I will rivet the panels on. Maybe put a bead of seam sealer on first.
I straightened the areas behind the wheel wells on both sides. The aluminum was really stretched and I couldn't do a lot with it. So I flattened the high spots and got out the Bondo. I wish I was better at this so I don't have to sand so much. Very tiring on my worn out old body.
Not a lot of progress as I was tied up from Wednesday through Sunday. I watched all or part of 18 hockey games and about 20 hours of video streaming from the March Meet at Bakersfield (nostalgia drag racing). A guy needs a break now and then.:D
 

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