Another New guy with ?

[skull]

start

looks like a good start[cl

tell us what ya have planned.

Later

 

[Sevo]

looks like a good start[cl

tell us what ya have planned.

Later

Thanks Skull. I am pretty pumped.

First I will start with the cancer on the cab. I have some feelers out for some replacement plates for the driver side cowl.

I am wanting to do a 5-6 inch chop and maybe do some suicide doors. I am still debating on the doors.
I have a question about the chop. Would you leave the floor pan in intill the chop is done? I will need to take the pan out to fix the cancer on the bottom of the cab. So would you do the chop then fix the bottom cancer of the cab or do the cab first? I was thinking I should leave the floor pan in to help keep the structure shape of the cab. Or should I just brace it up and take the floor out?

not sure about an engine for it. I was wanting to do a flat head ford v-8 but that is way out of my price range . I would like to do a small block v-8, any suggestions on that?

 

[skull]

chop

do the floors first, that way if ya channel it the chop may be only 3'' so you fit in the cab. the trans tunnel may have to be modified a bunch to get the right fit for the tranny bell housing and still get your foot clearance for the pedals.

look on craigslist for a running chevy cheap with a tittle, take what ya need then send the bones to scrapper. lots of people will take it off your hands. l have done this several time for motors, trannys, wiring and other parts.

suicide doors are always cool

Later

 

[Mike S.]

The journey begins!

Man, what a good looking truck to start with! The bed looks especially solid which is rare since back then trucks were used as trucks. You're very wise to lay out a couple extra bucks for a solid, first project. It will save you a lot of headaches. Don't be afraid of fabbing/replacing those lower kick panels. New ones are easy to make. I had to do both sides of my '40. Congrats and keep the updates coming! [cl

 

[Sevo]

do the floors first, that way if ya channel it the chop may be only 3'' so you fit in the cab. the trans tunnel may have to be modified a bunch to get the right fit for the tranny bell housing and still get your foot clearance for the pedals.

look on craigslist for a running chevy cheap with a tittle, take what ya need then send the bones to scrapper. lots of people will take it off your hands. l have done this several time for motors, trannys, wiring and other parts.

suicide doors are always cool

Later

Thanks Skull, I will do that for sure.

What size engine do you think would be best? My buddy has a 93 caprice with a 350 in it. He wants 1300 for it. I was thinking of snagging it. Engine was just rebuilt???

Man, what a good looking truck to start with! The bed looks especially solid which is rare since back then trucks were used as trucks. You're very wise to lay out a couple extra bucks for a solid, first project. It will save you a lot of headaches. Don't be afraid of fabbing/replacing those lower kick panels. New ones are easy to make. I had to do both sides of my '40. Congrats and keep the updates coming! [cl

Thanks Mike! I wanted a solid truck for my first build. I dont know enough not too I am following your build closely. I will be using yours as a reference for sure.

What gauge sheet metal did you use for your panels?

Thanks guys for the great posts

 

[Mike S.]

I used 18 gauge steel for everything I did on my cab except the trans tunnel, that is 16 gauge. If you have access to a box and pan brake, making the patch panel really isn't bad. Fabbing the actual panel only takes about 15 minutes and welding it in doesn't take too long either. Just remember to weld it in slowly or it'll warp on ya! Here is how I did mine, maybe it can help ya. Enjoy your build man, it's a blast! Good luck!

http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17439&page=2

 

[skull]

1000

offer him a grand

the tranny should be a 7OOR4. get the lock up kit that runs the trans and eliminates the computer. any good tranny shop should be able to help. new filter and a stage 2 shift kit and ya will be happy.

the other advantange is the motor and tranny is a matched set, so you know all the parts work togother. another advantange is ya can drive the car to check out the condition of the running gear.

keep your drive shaft so you can have it cut to fit. several shops offer this service. around here its about a hundred to a hundred fifty to do this. new u-joints are good insurance at this point.

being a full framed car , if you have the skill, the frame may be able to cut down and modified to be used under the truck.

also the roof, door, hood, deck lid , quarter panels and even the floor pan are a great source for usuable metal. l have used so many of this kind of stuff in my builds over the years l lost count.

the guage panel in my 33 dodge is part of a 1966 EL CAMINO roof.

the floor pans and trunk pan in my 1966 chevelle is a floor pan cut to fit outta a 1978 caprice.


the plastic wire looms, switches, brackets and odds & ends are a good thing to hang onto, they come in handy.


Later

 

[Oldrodder43]

Excellent find Sevo! Anything around the Coast here wouldn't be nearly as solid or rust free. Keep the pics coming please. perley

 

[Sevo]

I used 18 gauge steel for everything I did on my cab except the trans tunnel, that is 16 gauge. If you have access to a box and pan brake, making the patch panel really isn't bad. Fabbing the actual panel only takes about 15 minutes and welding it in doesn't take too long either. Just remember to weld it in slowly or it'll warp on ya! Here is how I did mine, maybe it can help ya. Enjoy your build man, it's a blast! Good luck!

http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17439&page=2

Thanks mike for the link! I do not have a break but I did find this. http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf I was thinking of making my own.

I hope mine turns out half as good as yours.

offer him a grand

the tranny should be a 7OOR4. get the lock up kit that runs the trans and eliminates the computer. any good tranny shop should be able to help. new filter and a stage 2 shift kit and ya will be happy.

the other advantange is the motor and tranny is a matched set, so you know all the parts work togother. another advantange is ya can drive the car to check out the condition of the running gear.

keep your drive shaft so you can have it cut to fit. several shops offer this service. around here its about a hundred to a hundred fifty to do this. new u-joints are good insurance at this point.

being a full framed car , if you have the skill, the frame may be able to cut down and modified to be used under the truck.

also the roof, door, hood, deck lid , quarter panels and even the floor pan are a great source for usuable metal. l have used so many of this kind of stuff in my builds over the years l lost count.

the guage panel in my 33 dodge is part of a 1966 EL CAMINO roof.

the floor pans and trunk pan in my 1966 chevelle is a floor pan cut to fit outta a 1978 caprice.


the plastic wire looms, switches, brackets and odds & ends are a good thing to hang onto, they come in handy.


Later

Skull,

great post as usuall. Very help full

I was thinking of maybe getting a completely rebuilt drivetrain. Is there any company that offers matched engine and drivetrain that has been rebuilt?

Also what are your thoughts on a 327 Vs 350. I see 327 are more expensive. I was wanting a more compact V-8 for this build. Any thoughts on this?

Excellent find Sevo! Anything around the Coast here wouldn't be nearly as solid or rust free. Keep the pics coming please. perley

Thank you! I was lucky that no one had snatched it up. He listed it for 2000 and I got it for a 1000.00.

One perk about living in the south west is the rust is a lot better here. Vehicles do well here.

 

[ripgut775]

hell yea bro thats a good strart and a wayyy good price on that truck! keep up the good work. [P[P[P

 

[ripgut775]

also did you have any pics on the front z?

 

[Sevo]

hell yea bro thats a good strart and a wayyy good price on that truck! keep up the good work. [P[P[P

also did you have any pics on the front z?

Thanks man! I hope to get started on fixing the rust on the driver door today.

I can get some pics of that front Z. He did not do a good job on it so I will have to redo what he did. I am going to box it in and do some better bracing.

 

[ripgut775]

ok cool thanks bro. lets see some pics when your done[

 

[Sevo]

I have been brainstorming the cab chop. I see when cutting the seam across the top of the cab some go straight across and some do a zig/ zag cut. What do you guys recommend


see below for the zig pattern I am speaking of

 

[cornfield customs]

i have done them both ways, they are both about the same to me. the point of the "zig zag" is to help aid in lining the roof back up once it is sectioned. depending on how much you want to chop it and the style of chop you might not have to section the center of the roof

 

[Sevo]

i have done them both ways, they are both about the same to me. the point of the "zig zag" is to help aid in lining the roof back up once it is sectioned. depending on how much you want to chop it and the style of chop you might not have to section the center of the roof

That makes sense, thank you for the explimnation.

I was wanting to do 4.5 inch chop in back with 5 inch up front. Does this give a nice raked look or should I just do 5 inch all the way around?

 

[Mike S.]

That makes sense, thank you for the explimnation.

I was wanting to do 4.5 inch chop in back with 5 inch up front. Does this give a nice raked look or should I just do 5 inch all the way around?

It depends on how much rake you're after. In my opinion, you don't perceive the 1/2" difference as a much of a "rake". It will look slightly raked but not really too dramatic. My GMC only has a 1/4" difference and below is a picture of my other cab. It is a '40 Chevy and it is chopped 5" in the back and 5 1/2" in the front. I wasn't going for a rake, that's just what it took to line the roof.

 

[Sevo]

It depends on how much rake you're after. In my opinion, you don't perceive the 1/2" difference as a much of a "rake". It will look slightly raked but not really too dramatic. My GMC only has a 1/4" difference and below is a picture of my other cab. It is a '40 Chevy and it is chopped 5" in the back and 5 1/2" in the front. I wasn't going for a rake, that's just what it took to line the roof.

Thanks Mike, Yeah I guess the 1/2 doesn't do much. I need to just lay it out and see how it will look. I am going to quit farting around and just get to it. Wish me luck [

 

[Sevo]

This may be a stupid question, but how are you guys figuring out the A pillar cut lines. I see they are at an angle. I am sure it has to do with true measurements. I am just trying to wrap my head around it. Sorry if that is really dumb

 

[justsomeguy]

Please keep in mind that I am doing my first chop myself, so take it all with a grain of salt.

When I laid out the A-Pillars, I marked out 5" to remove. 5" of length, not height. That is take your bottom point and mark it, then measure up 5" from there to mark your top point. On the back of the cab, I marked out 4" the same way. The reason I did this is that the slant of the A-Pillars would actually make the front chop less dramtatic than 5". Anything more than the 4" of the rear would just give it a little rake. I know that's hard to follow. If you need some pictures to visualize what I'm typing, let me know.

I would suggest laying out your planned chop and the photographing it. Post it on here and let's have a bit of a critique session and see if some of the experienced hands have any words of wisdom. On one hand I'm jealous of your cab, but on the other I'm glad I don't have it. My cab was a bit beat up with some good dents on the roof. I'm electing to not straighten it all out so I can (1) keep it real rough looking and (2) hide some of my "body work skiils".

Let me know if you have any specific questions I can try to help you with.