Another suzuki gs1000 chop

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Decided to make a jog to hold the front end exactly where I wanted it. Gotta be creating in 1 man operations
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I never realized how out of level the floor was, till I needed to zero out the front end.
Shims got it where it needs to be.
New rake angle, 38*
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Bottom tubes in place, working on the top tube.
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The factory seat mount is really throwing off my eyes. It looks like crap, but I think it'll clean up once that mess is gone.
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Bars look really goofy now too.
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The backbone tube has two halves. The front half is permanent, and the back half is just temporary till I get the hard tail started. It will eventually connect into a new rear engine hoop, but I wanted to lock in in place for now till I get to that part.

All tubing joints get DOM lugs and rosette welds. I feel like it'll be pretty solid.
The neck area will get secondary tubes and gussets locking everything together, but I don't have the tank I. Hand yet, and I want to get that placed and see if I can't hide ops one of that under the tank.


That's it for today.
 
Time for an update! :D
I had drawn up the center hoop on google sketchup and put it out there to have someone with the Bend Tech software do all the calculations for me.
Guys sent them back and I set off to bend the hoop.

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Little Bo Peep
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Time to chop off the rest of the rear frame.
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The original motor mounts were utilizing the factory hoop, which I liked, so I opted to reuse them.
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The motor mounts needed a slight bit of fudging to get to fit well, but they worked out nicely. Pretty good considering they were cut with a sawzawl :eek:

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Next step is to complete the hard tail. I tasked my buddy to chase down the rear hosing bolt (which was a stud for the shock. It's big. 22mm with 1.5 pitch threads. I had sourced one of these a while ago, but ended up not using it. I wanted to use this on his.
While I wait for him to bring these back (it's been 2 weeks since he left with the original stud) I figured I would prep the rear mounting plates.

As usual, I go cave man style to cut stuff.
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A little cleaning up and they will work nicely.
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That's it for now.
 
Decided after dinner to fight the rear shock stud on the left side.
I KNOW these are a bear from previous experience.

Welded up a 4' cheater bar to break it loose.
Busted the bar off (only welded one side so I could twist the bar off once it broke loose) then went to town with the breaker bar and socket.
As you can see, it's not a pretty process. The stud fights the entire time out.
This will be replaced with a 2" long 22mm grade 8 bolt.

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Temporally using the old stud to hold the new rear frame mounting plate
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This plate will eventually get the corners rounded off and further beautifying before final welds of the rear tube to it, but I had enough of the angle grinder cutting the dang things tonight :rolleyes:
 
Hey buddy..... my name fits me very well. I have been working on so many projects for so long and none of them are done..... and you could have had the name first.... LOL you joined before me!
 
Does anyone see any catastrophic design flaw here with the rear section?
I really like the dropped look, and it allows the rear hard tail section bar to match the angle of the backbone, which is most appealing.
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My biggest concern with this is I'm drastically limiting triangulation of the rear end, and we all know triangles are strong.

Thinking of rolling a section of tubing to a radius and utilizing that as a support.
Like this.
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My other concern is the force of the backbone on the center hoop.
Normally, I would assume the rear section would provide support at the top of the hoop, but with the rear section dropped a few inches, it would allow the top half of the hoop to want to force back.
Of course it would take some serious force to move it, but rathar be safe than sorry.



Aaaaannnnnd discuss.......
 
I see your point.

I would think that if you doubled the thickness of the hoop you would be fine, otherwise I think that hoop will turn in to a question mark pretty quick. I don't think that you need to ditch the parallel bars idea but maybe reinforce a bit.
 
I dont venture into the bike section very often.... apparently I am missing some good projects over here.. Very nice work!
 
The look of this bike is amazing!!!

I dont venture into the bike section very often.... apparently I am missing some good projects over here.. Very nice work!

Awesome work man!

That is gonna be one sweet looking ride.[dr


Thanks for the kind words guys! It's a slow process, but I think it's worth it.
Owner came by tonight with some parts so we set them on the bike to get an idea of the next steps.
See below.
 
He brought over a rear fender. We initially thought about cutting it short, but it just looks way too cool long.
Also setup the mufflers he wants to use. I gotta say, these two things REALLY brought out the bike character. It's easy to see now what it's gonna end up. I fully expected a pro street/bobber kinda thing, but now with these parts, it brings in an old school kinda look.....which is perfect!

In the photo below, you can see the rear support tube I was thinkin of. Rolled 1" DOM. Looks nice in place

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At the bottom of the fender, I'm going to French in three 4" led strips for the brake lights.

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He engine is just so darn wide, these are tough to get good proportions I. The rear. You can only run so wide of tire, so it makes it look off. Adding the large mufflers adds some "weight" to the rear, which I feel really helps balance out the bike.
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Were gonna go with a 28" sissy bar /fender brace. I'd love some ideas on a good looking issy bar to make here. I'd like to use 3/4" tube for this so he has enough girth to mount a bag to.

Also, with this fender, it's screaming for a luggage rack. Nothing extravagant, but the fender tells me one needs to be there.

Got some signals/tails that will mount on the fender right behind the seat. He's ordered a crazy lookin headlight from London that'll use the factory fork brackets (which is nice, less fab work) and amber signals for the front.

He also picked up some craigslist forwards. Mounting is going to be a PAIN. We've decided to go away from foot shift and go jockey shift on the left side, with clutch on the shifter.
He's got a list of things I need to finish Moch up.

The engine in the bike now is just for Moch up, he's building and ceramic coating an 1100cc for the bike.
We talked color scheme for the bike and I gotta tell ya, this thing is gonna turn some heads.

Sometimes I wonder why I spend so much time building these for everyone else. Cause every one I've built and sent away, I've wanted for myself :rolleyes:

I think the fun part for me is working with the owners and incorporating their ideas. Things just seem to come out better with two brains brainstorming.

One of the local radio stations has a BIG car show they put on here in Denver every year, which is in August. So we've decided to make this the goal.

He's getting a Dakota digital speedo with every bell and whistle known to man. He also found an electronic fuel tank float/sensor out of some Honda brand that well mount in the tank and incorporate into the Dakota digital speedo for fuel level.


Need some input on the exhaust here. I'm trying to figure out a way to make the mufflers easily removable. I think I'll end up welding a few tabs to them (chrome is going away, ceramic coating) and mounting just the mufflers straight to the swingarm on each side. The swingarm is now stationary, however, the swingarm will need to drop to get the rear tire out. If I weld the headers solid to the mufflers, he'll have to completely remove the exhaust to get the rear tire out.
The way the forwards will mount, he'll have to remove those to get the headers off. Too much to remove just for a rear tire.
It might be easier just to remove the rear fender.
How do exhausts make that transition from tubing that slides into the muffler? I see band clamps, but is there some sort of gasket to prevent leakage?

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My favorite view.
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