Bonehead
Skull Master
You can ask em here if you want, or as a question for the whole gang in it's own thread. Or PM, or what ever you want. I am just glad to know someone is paying attention.
Bonehead is back to work
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maverickmk
Rebel Rodder
Lol, always watching Wazowski, always watching (from Monsters Inc)
'49 Hank
Active member
ok here goes my first round of silly questions...............
Here is what I have, a '52 F-1 cab that I am wanting to chop between 6" to 7". I also have a '49 F-4 cab that I figured I would need when I lowered the copped top. Figured that I would be cutting the top section into four pieces and the using the '49 cab as donor sheet metal for the strips to fill in the gaps on the top.
It does not appear that you will be cutting this top into 4 sections, correct?
[S
but instead you are moving the windshield pillars back to meet the cab instead, correct?
Here is what I have, a '52 F-1 cab that I am wanting to chop between 6" to 7". I also have a '49 F-4 cab that I figured I would need when I lowered the copped top. Figured that I would be cutting the top section into four pieces and the using the '49 cab as donor sheet metal for the strips to fill in the gaps on the top.
It does not appear that you will be cutting this top into 4 sections, correct?
[S
but instead you are moving the windshield pillars back to meet the cab instead, correct?
moparcowboy
Well-known member
Having wheels under the cab is great. I can spin it around, and move it anywhere in the shop. I hope to put bigger wheels under it soon.
chop looks about right, good job Bonehead!
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Hey BH, I'm watching....and learning.
I think we all are.
Bonehead
Skull Master
Okay here is the answer. I am keeping the roof whole. The cuts I made were in the most straight up and down sections of the cab. There is 1/4 inch in width difference I will take care of with the removable hard top.
I am slanting the windshield posts back to make up the 3 inches or so, that you normally would section into the top, to bring the top forward to meet the posts.
There is alot to deal with slanting the posts, even cutting the dash loose.
The donor top is something I wouldn't use, just because I would just use strips of steel instead, and that is what I did on the Bonehead Truck.
The timing of your question is perfect, here are today's pictures.
I am slanting the windshield posts back to make up the 3 inches or so, that you normally would section into the top, to bring the top forward to meet the posts.
There is alot to deal with slanting the posts, even cutting the dash loose.
The donor top is something I wouldn't use, just because I would just use strips of steel instead, and that is what I did on the Bonehead Truck.
The timing of your question is perfect, here are today's pictures.
ok here goes my first round of silly questions...............
Here is what I have, a '52 F-1 cab that I am wanting to chop between 6" to 7". I also have a '49 F-4 cab that I figured I would need when I lowered the copped top. Figured that I would be cutting the top section into four pieces and the using the '49 cab as donor sheet metal for the strips to fill in the gaps on the top.
It does not appear that you will be cutting this top into 4 sections, correct?
[S
but instead you are moving the windshield pillars back to meet the cab instead, correct?
Bonehead
Skull Master
Sorry Sam, here they are, had to turn a couple of them.
Bonehead
Skull Master
Thanks, It turned out to be 4 1/4th in the back and 5 1/2 in the front. I was shooting for 6 in the front when I started, but did not know for sure what the slant posts would do, so I cut it at 5 1/2, and got 5 1/2.
Bonehead
Skull Master
I bet you already know more than I could ever learn. But thank you.
Snake Farm
Ol school snake charmer!
Yeah Bone, you are way beyond my skill level
So I'm just quietly observing ........carry on. [P[P[P
'49 Hank
Active member
OH! WOW!...........
would have never figured on having to cut the dash.............
would have never figured on having to cut the dash.............
'49 Hank
Active member
Ok for the the second question,
Since you have leaned back the post to meet the roof. How does this affect the windshield?
both at the bottom lip where the rubber and glass come together? is it a hard fit or no concern?
And does this cause any distortion with/on the glass itself?
[S
Since you have leaned back the post to meet the roof. How does this affect the windshield?
both at the bottom lip where the rubber and glass come together? is it a hard fit or no concern?
And does this cause any distortion with/on the glass itself?
[S
Bonehead
Skull Master
The glass should fit fine, as far as being flat. There is an edge left in frame, and it may have to be tweeked a little, but probably not. The dash dropped about a 1/4 inch when I pulled the windshield back. I'll cover the cuts on the dash when I build it back. I probably could have taken the dash out, but it looked like alot of work.
'49 Hank
Active member
Ok, wow!, still trying to get my pipefitter mind around cutting the dash.......
what changes does this do to the doors then if any?
what changes does this do to the doors then if any?
Bonehead
Skull Master
I have left the hinges alone, so just the shape of the door top will change, nothing else.
'49 Hank
Active member
Thanks so far I think I'm keeping up with what you have going on here.
I had not realized or thought about cutting the front post lower that the back section when you do the chop until I started reading the treads here on RRR. Thanks for the nugget guys! Pretty exciting stuff. I can see/understand how it gives a more "aggressive" look. I really like that.
[dr
Now when you cut the cab like this, lower in the front than in the back. Do you pretty much have to adjust the pillars? Or does it depend on if you section the top into 4 parts?
I had not realized or thought about cutting the front post lower that the back section when you do the chop until I started reading the treads here on RRR. Thanks for the nugget guys! Pretty exciting stuff. I can see/understand how it gives a more "aggressive" look. I really like that.
[dr
Now when you cut the cab like this, lower in the front than in the back. Do you pretty much have to adjust the pillars? Or does it depend on if you section the top into 4 parts?
Bonehead
Skull Master
The back cut had to be tapered a little, as it rounds the corners towards the doors, so it is not a straight cut. I did it by scribing the line after I did the original chop cut. I'll fine tune that cut with a grinder and should have a really good fit.
'49 Hank
Active member
Thanks for the info. That's all good stuff there. I'll sit back and watch for a while.
