Flipper_1938
He recycles the right way
94-95 camaros had a 3.4 liter version of this motor. That motor with the 82 ignition and an aftermarket intake would be fun.
bought a roadster thing
- Thread starter Camo King
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That's what I'll probably end up doing is a 60* then. Does a t-50 bolt up to it? I have one in the barn. Only I'd have to use the v6 bellhousing? I may have to redo the trans tunnel since it's really narrow. Anybody know what those motors go for?
Flipper_1938
He recycles the right way
If there is a pull-a-part near you, around $200.
Try looking up forums with 60* stuff. The later model front wheel drive GM stuff had better heads and intakes. A while back there were some people building hybrid motors with the good heads on RWD 3.4 blocks. I didn't follow it too closely but it did seem interesting.
I bought a 3.4 camaro motor to stick in a suzuki samurai, but never got around to it.
Try looking up forums with 60* stuff. The later model front wheel drive GM stuff had better heads and intakes. A while back there were some people building hybrid motors with the good heads on RWD 3.4 blocks. I didn't follow it too closely but it did seem interesting.
I bought a 3.4 camaro motor to stick in a suzuki samurai, but never got around to it.
Skip
Well-known member
If a Mustang II front suspension will hold up under a BBC, I think you are likely OK with a baby V6 sitting on the Opel suspension. If you find one with a 4- or 5-speed, it ought to fit in your tunnel OK, too. Guessing here. Its been a few decades since I played with Opels.
Didn't think of it like that! We should be good then. As for the rear axle I'm not positive though. I have a 5 speed that came out of a blazer. It's a T-50. Looks a bit big though. Does anyone know if the t50 is a sibling to the t5 or what the differences are between the two?
Bamamav
Well-known member
I doubt that Opel rear would last long behind a V6. A 4 lug Mustang or Maverick 8" might be a better choice, and cheap too. They have smaller axle tubes and outer bearings, so guys putting a V8 in toss them in favor of the 5 lug rears. The center gear section is the same as the 5 lugs rears.
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
T50 in a Blazer? Check your casting number. T50 would begin with 13-38... T5 with 13-52.
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Skip
Well-known member
You can make any diff a limited slip for a price. I think you are over thinking your project. Does it really need a limited slip diff if you are not taking it racing. Other than the cool factor of saying it has one, I am thinking it is unnecessary for this application. Early in my build, I was looking at putting a Ford 9 in my 39 ford PU. The lads at Dutchman told me to save it for a bigger badder project. The S10 diff will handle 400 HP. Point is, this project looks like a fun zip-around car, rather than a monster race car.
Of course, a limited slip Ford 8 wouldn't hurt it a bit, either.
It is wider than the Opel, I am pretty sure. So figure out how much it will stick out and if it will look OK that way.Have fun!
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I can see the point about that but in my mind a roadster fun car needs to lay two strip of rubber. I have two trucks with open rears right now and I'd like to have a posi to have fun with. That being said if it's big $$ I may have to settle.
Bamamav
Well-known member
Look on eBay, usually some pretty good deals on lockers and posi units. Cheapest way out is a mini spool, although they don't recommend them for the street a lot of guys run them, About $50.
zzrodder
It ain't grey hair, it's chrome!
I've driven a car with a spool before and it really is just for one thing - straight line drag racing. Very weird driving around corners when the car is trying to go straight, also a little embarrassing in parking lots or just turning a corner at a stop light when the inside tire is squealing constantly...
BTW, those older GM 2.8 V6's are a piece of poo IMHO
BTW, those older GM 2.8 V6's are a piece of poo IMHO
Skip
Well-known member
Yup. That pretty much covers the spool story.
Ok. So I pulled the car out in the open and started getting a good look at how this thing was assembled and it's got a few problems. First, for some reason they have the body sitting up on top of the z in the front. So basically the body is sitting g half on the z and half on the frame in the rear. It's at such and angle that they ran the exhaust through this space. [S I was also looking at the trans tunnel and it appears that they have lifted the body to clear the trans rather than redo the tunnel.
I'm beginning g to think they built the body and then set it atop the frame later and then made what they had work.
Another problem is that the rear fenders are crooked. I can put 4 fingers between the front of the fender and the tire on the passenger side and only two on the driver side.
I'm kind of brainstorming right now on what to do with it. I may end up trying g to take the body off the frame so I can see it all a little better.
What do you do when everything is crooked?? WhWhere do you stop???
I'm beginning g to think they built the body and then set it atop the frame later and then made what they had work.
Another problem is that the rear fenders are crooked. I can put 4 fingers between the front of the fender and the tire on the passenger side and only two on the driver side.
I'm kind of brainstorming right now on what to do with it. I may end up trying g to take the body off the frame so I can see it all a little better.
What do you do when everything is crooked?? WhWhere do you stop???
First order of business is to figure if the body is bolted on or welded on. The exhaust is welded to the body flange so it doesn't look hopeful lol
There was debate on the fenders already. Depending on drivetrain choice I may have to remove them anyway. This thing is definitely a rat rod.
There was debate on the fenders already. Depending on drivetrain choice I may have to remove them anyway. This thing is definitely a rat rod.
Skip
Well-known member
Fenders might be crooked.
Body might be crooked on the frame.
Rear end might be crooked on the frame.
Or it could be a little of each.
[S
I think a tape measure is you best friend here. Measure everything before you start taking things apart. Take notes. There will be a test.
Check the frame for squareness. Measure from one corner to opposite corner. The numbers should match. Or really close.
Check the body for squareness. Same deal.
If the frame is square, check the location of the rear end from the front of the frame. Both sides and crosswise.
Then check the location of the body in reference to the front of the frame.
If the body is square, then check the fender location in reference to the front of the body.
Etc.
Have fun.
Body might be crooked on the frame.
Rear end might be crooked on the frame.
Or it could be a little of each.
[S
I think a tape measure is you best friend here. Measure everything before you start taking things apart. Take notes. There will be a test.
Check the frame for squareness. Measure from one corner to opposite corner. The numbers should match. Or really close.
Check the body for squareness. Same deal.
If the frame is square, check the location of the rear end from the front of the frame. Both sides and crosswise.
Then check the location of the body in reference to the front of the frame.
If the body is square, then check the fender location in reference to the front of the body.
Etc.
Have fun.
