Brake lines.

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DJ3100

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
1,899
Location
Chandler, Arizona
I just finished the brake lines on the F2 stang. After my experience on the '53 - nearly every double flare I made leaked - I would like to be able to pressure test the lines while I can still get to everything. Is there a way to pressure test the system without the mess of brake fluid -which seems to be the best paint stripper I have found.

I bought a new flaring tool from NAPA for this project. I was very careful to inspect and remake any flares that were suspect - but it would be nice to be sure it's leak free.
 
DJ, I'm sure you didn't get any responses because nobody had any suggestions. It wasn't from indifference. I've has miserable results doing double flares and now use pre made lengths exclusively. Even then, I occasionally get one that leaks.
 
Huh. I don't think I had any problem with leaky double flares - did about 10. :confused: BTW, I think the NAPA flare kit is the same one I saw at HF - for about 1/4 the price! (I bought the NAPA one too)
 
I searched the net and found zip on testing lines - everyone has the same problem we do. Well, not everyone, some people spent $400 - $2000 on flaring tools that actually work. I'm not surprised or offended that no one had an answer.

My NAPA tool went belly up - the threads seized and the clamp wouldn't tighten. Took it back and got a new one on thier Lifetime Warranty. I have not made a good flair with the new set. Now that I know I could have gotten it at HF I'll probably take this one back, too.

Bonehead, air turned out to be a good idea, maybe. At least it pointed out several joints that leaked with air pressure. I'll be bleeding the brakes next week, I'll see how accurate the air pressure test was.

I posted some photos on my build.
 
My question is. When you had the leaks were you flaring steel line or Stainless steel lines. Stainless flare have to be perfect or they will cut the set of what they are screwed into.
 
I do alot of brake lines being a mechanic in ohio. I never had a problem doing them by hand with the KD flare tool. But it just takes to long and its a pain. so i bought a hydralic flare tool. fast simple and perfect every time. but it is $300.

all i can say is make sure you cuts are straight. that seems to be the biggest problem ive seen.
 
DJ you are right about brakefluid being a great paint stripper, on my bake lines I bet I had to redo every fitting at least twice till I got them right so to say if there is a good way ??? I don't know it yet :D good luck.. Chip
 
Harbor Freight...Some pros and cons to buying their tools! Some good, some bad, you have to check what you're buying carefully. I'm not saying they're all bad, but at such a reduced price on some of the tools they sell you can't expect them to be top quality...CR
 
I did regular steel lines not stainless. Didn't have problems. Well, beside my own mistakes - to short, etc. No leaks though.

As for HF tools, yeah, buyer beware. But I swear the double flare set was the EXACT SAME set as the NAPA set.

Consider anything you buy from HF as a consumable - it's gonna get used up quick.
 
I've got the NAPA double 45 flaring tool, had it for about 3-4 years. gets routine use as I'm also a mechanic.

My buddie's Snap-On works SOOOO much better...I wish I could afford one, but every time they come on sale at the truck, I'm broke...:( I use a bubble (METRIC) flaring tool from Princess Auto, kinda like Harbour freight but Canadian. Same thing, Snap-On is far superior.

As said above, make double sure the ends are cut square, if you're using bulk (rolled) tubing make sure the area you are flaring is straight as you can get it-this will cock the flaring bar at a slight angle and "F-up" your flare. Another tip is to dribble some clean brake fluid on the flaring bar and flaring die after the tubing is clamped in properly. This seems to help lubricate the tool and help a mediocre one form better flares.

hope this helps.

regards,
Shea:)
 

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