Brake lines.

[DJ3100]

I bleed the brakes yesterday. Pressurizing the brake lines with air showed me most of the leakers. Most of them just needed to be tightened a little more.

One line leaks on both ends. I am going today to get one the right length and use the factory flares - I hope.

Why am I having problems with leaks?

I think leaking brake lines are standard for ameteur builders. Certainly if anone builds cars and has no problems with leaky joints, I'd like to know what flaring tool they're using and what their secrets are. Fill us in.

Most tools being made today are complete junk - Paying real money for a NAPA tool only got me high priced junk. Looks like I need to move up into the 100's of $ to get a reliable one - or build my own.

 

[CR55]

For some unknown reason, the brake and lines were no problem for me.[S I used an inexpensive and old flaring tool and just took my time. The brake system has been on there for 18 years with no apparent problems, now if some of the other parts of the build had went that easy!!!. Hang in there and I'm sure you'll get them worked out and BTW the build is coming along great. To quote Gastrick again(this is a great line too!) If it was easy, everybody would be doing it!!![cl...CR

 

[rockabillyrat]

Wow brake lines hate you dont they.

Post a pic of you flare maybe some one can pic out whats wrong with them.

 

[Shea Laking]

I bleed the brakes yesterday. Pressurizing the brake lines with air showed me most of the leakers. Most of them just needed to be tightened a little more.

One line leaks on both ends. I am going today to get one the right length and use the factory flares - I hope.

Why am I having problems with leaks?

I think leaking brake lines are standard for ameteur builders. Certainly if anone builds cars and has no problems with leaky joints, I'd like to know what flaring tool they're using and what their secrets are. Fill us in.

Most tools being made today are complete junk - Paying real money for a NAPA tool only got me high priced junk. Looks like I need to move up into the 100's of $ to get a reliable one - or build my own.

You're not alone. I, ahem, "mess up" flares and have to redo them ALL the time. I would agree with what you said above-a GOOD QUALITY flaring tool is worth it's weight in gold. This being said, patience and experience cannot be substituted for. I always find I have leak problems when my boss is on my ass and I have to HURRY_HURRY!!! Kind of embarassing to admit, but just so you know, "the pros" have the same problems, too, from time to time.

When it comes to the standard "double flare", you absolutely MUST have it perfectly even all around or it WILL NOT seal worth a damn. It has to contact the seat of whatever hose or component it is threading into evenly all around, as well as the inside of the flare nut. Sometimes, you just don't have it tight enough, but PLEASE be cautious, as overtightening can damage brass fitting which are common to some brake components and hoses.

Best final words of advice I can give is: Keep plugging away. You WILL eventually get all of your fittings properly formed and leak-free. As they say, "Practice Makes Perfect."

Regards,
Shea

 

[purple32]

Harbor Frieght

 

[olcarguy]

I know this is an older post but what I have to say might make some sense. Make sure that the tool is securely held in a vise before attempting to make your flare. You can't make a good one trying to hang on to it. I know from experience, been there before I figured it out, and lube the die and line with brake fluid as well. Hope this helps....

 

[Shea Laking]

I know this is an older post but what I have to say might make some sense. Make sure that the tool is securely held in a vise before attempting to make your flare. You can't make a good one trying to hang on to it. I know from experience, been there before I figured it out, and lube the die and line with brake fluid as well. Hope this helps....

Another excellent point! It certainly does make it easier using a vice. I always seem to find myself forming the first flare that way, then attach it to the vehicle, cut to length and form the second one under the car (bus, these days). Ideally, you would cut, bend to shape, flare both ends, then attach it to the vehicle....but my boss likes to poo on me for "taking too much time" doing it that way. Oh well, there's never enough time to do it right, but there's Always enough time to do it over...

BTW olcarguy, welcome to RRR, fellow Ontarian!

Regards,
Shea

 

[Sam_Fear]

Not sure this was ever mentioned, but cut the tube with a pipe cutting tool, not just hacking it off.

 

[Gasser300]

I do not mean to hijack this thread but what about bleeding lines for the first time. I am struggling to get the air out. Ive used one of those cheap HF vacuum pumps. ALso did it the old fashion way with the pedal. Just cant seem to get the air out.

 

[olcarguy]

Did you bench bleed the master before starting on the rest of the lines? Often there is air in the master that has to be removed before continuing on with the wheels. Install a piece of brake line from the master ports back into the tank of the master.....slowly pump the brakes until no air is seen.....re connect the original lines and try again. What procedure are you using for bleeding? Do not pump the brake when bleeding...simply apply downward pressure on brake peddle holding until bleeder is opened and closed...release peddle only after bleed screw is tight...repeat.....you are starting from the furthest line first I hope.....I hope this helps.

 

[Gasser300]

Thanks carguy. I did bench bleed master cyl. I have tried all you suggested. I have even had the vacuum gizmo on it. I recieved a PM with a suggestion and will try that tomorrow.

 

[DJ3100]

I just stumbled on to this thread again. There has been a lot of discussion since I last saw it. I did get my brake lines sealed and bled.

Getting the air out seems to be one of those things where you work and work and finally all of a sudden it's good. I use a hand squeeze, vacuum pump on the bleeder. I put grease on the bleeder to keep the vacuum line sealed. Patience is key.

I got the new clutch master yesterday - check my build post. The port is in a different location, so I had to re-do the line. On the third try I got one end. But by now the line is just the right length - a little short but possible. That gave me one chance to do the other end. Square cut, chamfer the ID, burr and polish the OD, hold the tool in the vise, remember to put on the fitting, set the length with the die - you guessed it - the flare is off center. No way to make it seal. When the zone opens, I'll be heading out the get another - just the right length - brake line.

I'm going to chase down a Snap-on or Mac truck before I do any more lines - do they take plastic?