brakes again

[Yankee Transplant]

about tired of the brake issue ,, both feet on pedal and it will slow you down to a stop ,,, cant drive it like this ... done scuffed up the shoes and drums and adjusted to a scrub no help. replaced the lines from 5/16 all the way threw to 1/4 till it gets to the rubber then its 5/16 to the cylinders. still the same , got new manual master for a 76 c-10 no difference. I have a 79 camaro rear under it , but it acted the same way with the 64 pick up rear under it . Doc helped me last year (I think) with ID on my axle , can you help again Doc ? I will put it on the wall this time ,, I think he said it was a 55 ... Im going to do some shopping for a disk brake conversion and see if it will fix everything . I have to many mis-match parts on here to make it work i guess . I drove drum brakes for years so I know what they shound be .

 

[Yankee Transplant]

any help on a good brake conversion will help too ..

 

[Willowbilly3]

What kind of pedal ratio do you have?

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Your axle casting # listed here...

Disc brake kit here...

http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/early_chevy_discbrake_conversions.html

.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

thank you Doc . when i look stuff up for some reason I go in circles

 

[Yankee Transplant]

willow this is what i have if this answers your question . top of the brake rod to the bottom of the pedal is 10" when there were no fluid in the system i could push the pedal down about 3&1/2 to 4" ... now when bled out i can push it about 1/2 " before its a hard pedal


the hole where the spring is hooked is where the pedal was before , I changed it thinking maybe more throw ,, which didnt help any , i cant make the pedal longer because its already a tad lower than it needs to be .

 

[sneakysnake]

Moving the rod down the pedal arm looses the leverage making the push harder.You want it as close to the pivot bolt and be able to get the stroke.

 

[Old Iron]

Sneaky's right, you have it in the power brake position, move the rod to the upper hole.
Also is the master cylinder a 1" or 1 1/8" you need a 1" bore master for manual brakes.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

thank you sneaky, i guess common sense should have popped in there about leverage ... old iron this is what i got 1.50 i guess you would call it a 1" ?




i never delt with these i used a tape measure ...so if im wrong , it wouldnt surprise me

 

[Old Iron]

Yep 1"
Move the rod and let us know how that works.
While we're at it, do you have a proportioning valve in the system similar to this?

 

[Yankee Transplant]

no nothing but lines do i need that ? its drums all way round

 

[Yankee Transplant]

i have a few ideas now that common sense kicked in a little , let me run this by y'all ... ive got a few other holes that i could use as far a leverage . but i will have to cut another hole in fire wall and move the master up about 3 or 4 inches and shorten the rod and cut the pedal off and re- weld it (i think i can do a better job of welding than the last fella , and i cant even weld that well ) that way the pedal will go in toward the fire wall to line up with the push rod ,,,, hmm but will i have enough throw with the pedal after this ?

done some measuring if yall think this will work I only have to raise it a inch and a half . that means some more holes in fire wall but if it fixes it thats ok ... it will blend in with the rest of the patches .

 

[Willowbilly3]

Measure from the pivot point to the hole the rod is in. Then measure from the hole the rod is in to the center of the pedal. The second measurement needs to be about six times more than the first. So if it's 2 inches from the pivot to the rod clevis hole, it needs to be 12 inches from there to center of the pedal. Make sense? You can get away with 5 1/2 to 1, no less on standard non power brakes.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

willowbilly I got brakes !!!!!!!! they aint 100% but its stopping the truck now . I see why it never had good brakes since i had it ... the rod was way to low ... i modified a bunch and moved master up and cut the rod to fit the top hole and that made the difference . i'm not afraid to drive it now .... thanks a bunch , after you mentioned the leverage deal i went to get the most i could out of what i had to work with, and now it works ...ya hoo ... I only had this truck for 33 years with crappy brakes and now i can drive it like a normal truck ....

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

[cl [cl [cl

.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

Hey Doc . Thanks for your imfo. I know if I need information I will get it on here... most of the time you will pop on here first and I do appreciate that , I feel like others on here do too .. Thanks for the ability you have to find stuff I cant seem to get too.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

old girl got some brakes now we can do some running around

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

My pleasure, Y.T.

I did nothing to cure your problem, but I'm happy to contribute whenever I can.

.

 

[Yankee Transplant]

I dont have $ to throw away , but with out the know how to get the imfo you need to fix the problem , I often throw parts at my problem till it goes away . some times it cheaper , most times its not .. .when willowbilly went to talking about leverage , a light come on and it went good for a change . Thanks again willowbilly And Doc I wrote the front axle year down on the wall Thanks

 

[Old Iron]

Right On