Thanks for posting the pictures, they help a lot. Well, cowl steering is one of those gray areas when it comes to steering. My Son wanted to use cowl steering on his rod and we talked about how to make sure it didn't create any problems with proper geometry. In the end, he decided to not do it, but to go with conventional steering.
Here is what I see in your pictures. First of all, the draglink from the pitman arm to the steering arm on the wheel is extremely long.........that allows some flex and monkey motion. It is like taking short rod compared to a very long rod, you can bend and flex the long one much easier. Secondly, the draglink terminates at a different mounting location than the wishbone. If you were to lift up on the drivers side front wheel and watch the movement, the longer drag link would slightly "steer" the wheel. The two are not rotating in the same plane, so one will travel further on the arc than the other. The idea is to neutralize this difference in movement as much as possible.
I don't know what the fix is for your car. When we build a car that is a little unorthodox (and I don't mean unorthodox in a bad way.......my own T is unorthodox in it's lowness ) we have to accept that we may have some problems to overcome. Your car, by being so long, low, and having cowl steering could possibly have some geometry issues to correct. How to do that is what I am puzzled about.
I would play with the alignment, like toe in, caster, and maybe add a steering stabilizer between the tie rod and the frame or axle. Those are the mini shocks like VW's had on their front ends to damp out bump steer and death wobble. Different shops like SoCal sell them and lots of people swear by them. Nice rod by the way, and I hope you get your problem solved.
Don