Chevy/Reo?

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I know what you said, but...

As awesome as your hood vents are & even though you said you were going to make them static. I saw this "Wheeler Dealers" episode that gave me an idea.

You see, they were working on a Porsche (914, I think) that had overheating problems. The thermostats were bad. They put bug thermostats in. They're aircooled, the thermostats are bellows that open air flaps when they reach temperature!

Here's a "The Samba" link with tons of information.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=434051
The important part:
The thermostat is a bellows design and is filled with a liquid that is designed to expand, thusly making the bellows expand, at a specific temperature. The thermostat does not actually push the rod to open the flaps, on the contrary it holds them closed when the engine is cold. When the thermostat expands, it relieves tension on the actuator rod and the spring on the cross linkage at the front of the shroud pulls the flaps into the open position.
The picture:
437208.jpg
 

Got a free pair of 215-85-16's mounted to the artillery wheels. Wheel color is a urethane primer, not the final wheel color. Jon,the friend who gave me the tires also mounted and balanced them for free. Not many people have state of the art tire equipment in their home shop.
My friend Jim was at the Moltrie swap meet Friday. He stopped at the Coker trailer and grabbed a pair of 6.00-16's for the front. He'll be travelling north in a week or so.
I an very fortunate to have friends that are so helpful and generous.
Every day I add more pieces and parts back on the Reo. I'ts looking pretty good, if I do say so myself.
 
I like the artillery wheels! Are you just doing a mock up then and dismounting the tires to paint?
I kinda like that color too, but I think you are going with Maroon on the body still yea? I bet you have a better color in mind!
 

I took the cracked, unusable, too large (for the front) tires that were on the back and threw them on the front. Gradually painting and adding parts to the engine and chassis. No big rush as we are just entering the hibernation time of year.
 

From the rear. The spare tire carrier and wheel have yet to be added.

Sam, I agree an aggressive tire tread on the rear and maybe even on the front too would look good. I was overcome by cheapness and used these free tires on the back.

Wheels will most likely be body color with a cream pin stripe and small caps.
 

Funny you ask, sawzall. I just got my front tires and wheels back last night and was intending to post this pic tonight.

Once I get the chassis work done on the Rover I'll be back on the Reo doing final assembly.
 
Bob, since I'm fairly new to this forum, I didn't get the chance to comment along the way on this build. I just caught up on the whole thread. I'm really impressed with your go do it attitude. I've been metal working in different ways for 40+ years and it always bothers me when people say "I don't have the equipment to do that job" ....I say BS to that. With simple tools and the right attitude, a man can do just about anything. Thanks for showing the step by step posting all along and bringing your talent to us. I'm sure lot's of ideas have been put forth that most just don't come up with.
I'm digging the overall look of everything on this build. Really stoked to see the I6 being used. I'm doing one for my 30/31 AA too. Thanks for the effort to keep us informed. Killer build!!!
D!ck
 


I've been gradually assembling the Reo. Buying small parts as needed. Altering brackets and such as needed to make things fit. It's going somewhat slow but this part of the build is fun.

I bought a chrome trans dip stick but it wouldn't fit. A while back Terry & Lee, known as Tator here on RRR did a thread on making a flexible dip stick. So I did just that.

Had a piece of 1/2" I.D. hose to use for the flexible part. Dug through my trays of "never throw a piece of metal away" and found some 1/2" O.D. by 9/32" I.D. tubing to use for the nipples. Then I tripped across a chunk of 11/16" O.D. by 1/2" I.D. tubing to use as a transition between the nipples and the remaining pieces of the purchased dip stick tube. The nipple, transition piece and section of original tube slid together for a nice tight fit. I brazed the pieces together as it takes less heat and is less likely to burn through the thin original chrome tubing. The brass flows nicely to seal the joints. It will be assembled with hose clamps and connected to the firewall mounted battery box with the clamp pictured. I got lucky in that the dip stick slides in and out of the flexible tube assembly.

Saved a bunch of money compared to buying a Lokar unit.
 

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