Custom Mopar ????

[Neto]

There are a few (at least) members here who are also on the P15-D24 forum, but I don't know if you're a member there, and if so, if you've posted your questions there. (It started as "strictly" MoPars of the 46 to 48 model run, but with openness to earlier & later models an increasing trend, so there are now lots of guys there with MoPars up into the middle 50's.)

The reason I pointed out the serrations is because on mine, that is designed to press into the upper part of the hinge frame (or what ever it should be called - the part that is fastened into the pillar) and prevent the pin from turning there. On my car, when the doors were (presumably) left closed for years, the pin rusted fast into the tongue, or strap part of the hinge. Then when someone forced the door open, it twisted off the pin right below the serrations. The bottom hole in the hinge frame is a loose fit, because the pin has to pass through the hole in the tongue or strap. The serrated part of the pin is a larger diameter. So just going by what I saw on mine, IF the design was the same, then I'd guess that the same situation on your car resulted in the upper hinge frame hole becoming stripped out (instead of twisting off the head, as in my case). But I think that either approach will work fine, and in some ways, making the pivot point in the outer frame holes is the better design, because those points are wider (more spread out). (And also a lot easier to keep lubricated.) That type of hinge-pin design would then commonly have bushings in those two rotation points, correct?

 

[Torchie]

I’m a member if that site Neato but I can’t remember my log in. Lol
I grabbed a lower hinge from the donor and while it moved freely the pin is turning with the tongue on this one too.
I’m gathering enough parts and pieces to do it either way.
Your description a few posts back was aligned with the way I thought it was supposed to be. I was swayed by others that it couldn’t be that way.
My minds working better now. Lol
My problem would be opening up the hole in the tongue to put a bushing in there.
I doubt I have anything that would bore that hunk of steel with any precision.
I’ll get something together. It may just not be how Dodge had it.
The second series 49 Dodge seems to be a black hole when it comes to info.
Thanks for all your help.
Torchie

 

[Neto]

I’m a member if that site Neato but I can’t remember my log in. Lol
I grabbed a lower hinge from the donor and while it moved freely the pin is turning with the tongue on this one too.
I’m gathering enough parts and pieces to do it either way.
Your description a few posts back was aligned with the way I thought it was supposed to be. I was swayed by others that it couldn’t be that way.
My minds working better now. Lol
My problem would be opening up the hole in the tongue to put a bushing in there.
I doubt I have anything that would bore that hunk of steel with any precision.
I’ll get something together. It may just not be how Dodge had it.
The second series 49 Dodge seems to be a black hole when it comes to info.
Thanks for all your help.
Torchie

After I got the pins out (drilled them out, as I could not get them to budge) I drilled out the hole in the tongue by working my way up little by little, like 1/16" at a pass. (Figured I could keep it more accurate that way.) Then the last pass was 1/64" under, followed by a hand reamer. I bought oilite bushings and made a tool to press fit the bushing. I've only done one of them, because then it came up that I was no longer sure what the original size was, 5/16" or 11/32". Someone on P15-D24 said that he had a Dodge manual which gave the size as 5/16", and so that's the size bushings I got. But most evidence points to 11/32. Now I'm not sure if that part of the tongue has enough 'meat' on it to allow for a larger bushing, even just that little bit, plus where am I going to find a bushing with an ID of 11/32"? (At that time I was convinced that the hinges had been reamed out for larger pins at some time in the car's life, as different people said it was a common practice when the doors got sloppy.) So now I'm left to either find a replacement, somehow manage to make the holes in the hinge frame smaller to accept the 5/16" pins, or cut that part of the tongue off and weld on larger diameter steel tubes to be able to press in a larger bushing. (I started in on building a jig to properly align the tube with the rest of the hinge tongue, but my work keeps getting in the way of my hobby, so it's all been side-lined for some time now.)

 

[Couper]

I didn't read this thoughly but I thought I'd just say this. And maybe it has been covered but I had some discussions on other forums concerning hinge pins.

The knurl on the pin is important, the reason being if there's no knurl the thin area of the door hinge turns on the pin. What you want is the pin to stay fixed in that area and only turn in the length of the fixed part of the hinge which has much more surface area 2" versus 1/8 x 2.

I'd say the proper fix is to drill oversize thru the door and body hinge areas and make oversize pins that have a knurl to hold in the door hinge. When turning the pins I threaded the bottom end of the pin to accorn nut it to stop it from backing out

I may have missed the whole point on this thread but that's where my mind went.

BTW....this was for my truck cab.... not sure if were talking bout a car or truck but I believe the knurl would still be key

Hope I'm not out of line...

 

[Torchie]

Not at all Couper.
I appreciate all comments.
The main thing is the fact that this car never came with any kind of a bushing system on the door hinge.
The pin is steel on steel. What was thought to be a bushing in the housing pin holes is really the residual metal left from from the hot punch press process the factory used to make the hinge.
I have the new parts waiting for me but since we are in the middle of a heavy snow they will continue to wait.
Torchie

 

[Burgerman]

How about adapting a set of Pilot House mopar hinges. They seem rather stout. I may be way off base Torchie. Have been confused before.

 

[Couper]

Not at all Couper.
I appreciate all comments.
The main thing is the fact that this car never came with any kind of a bushing system on the door hinge.
The pin is steel on steel. What was thought to be a bushing in the housing pin holes is really the residual metal left from from the hot punch press process the factory used to make the hinge.
I have the new parts waiting for me but since we are in the middle of a heavy snow they will continue to wait.
Torchie

Torchie..... which build is this for?

 

[Torchie]

Torchie..... which build is this for?

1949 Dodge Coronet. Couper.
Torchie

 

[Torchie]

How about adapting a set of Pilot House mopar hinges. They seem rather stout. I may be way off base Torchie. Have been confused before.

You are fine Burgerman.
I’m confident that I can fix these but that’s a good back up plan.
Torchie

 

[Torchie]

I regret being mostly AWOL these past few days.
No good news on the health front so I keep on keeping on.....
Mrs T ceded me some of her studio space so I can have some heat.
I stripped out the dash....mostly.
I need to learn how to remove those knobs so I can finish the job.
This also arrived yesterday. Not sure I know what to do with new parts.
Today is Mrs T's and mines 36 wedding anniversary.
Torchie

 

[BillM]

Congrats Mr and Mrs T! I hope you have a good day.

It's always exciting to get some new parts - same stuff I used on the Thriftmaster by the look of it.

 

[bob w]

Congratulations you two.[cl Glad to see you making progress. Do you know how to wood grain?[dr

 

[dutch]

Congrats Mr & Mrs T. [cl

 

[smallfoot]

Happy Anniversary Torchie!

 

[soltz]

It's coming along[cl

Happy Anniversary have a great day.!!!

 

[Torchie]

Congratulations you two.[cl Glad to see you making progress. Do you know how to wood grain?[dr

I do and have , Bob. Not on this one though.
Thanks for all the good vibes gang. We can use all everyone can spare.
Figured out the knob removal.
Hidden trigger inside the knob. You get to it through a notch in the biotin of the knob.
Now to just get it working .
Torchie

 

[MercuryMac]

Many Good Vibes coming your way, Torchie. [cl[cl
I was hoping you would give us a tutorial on the knob removal, as I will have to do some of that on a '46 Dodge car in the future.

 

[DozerII]

Congrats on the anniversary, and more good vibes coming from up here.

 

[Old Iron]

I too would like to congratulate you guys on the aniversary.
Out of curiosity, what's the measurements on the brake pedal from the pivot point on the mounting bracket to the master cylinder push rod and the pivot pion to the center of the foot pad?

 

[Torchie]

Many Good Vibes coming your way, Torchie. [cl[cl
I was hoping you would give us a tutorial on the knob removal, as I will have to do some of that on a '46 Dodge car in the future.

Thanks Mac.
Sorry I'm so slow on the downbeat lately. Spent most of today back in the ER.
As far as the knob removal goes....
There is a hidden trigger system inside the knob.
The procedure, as far as I have learned, is to insert a really small flat bladed screw drive into the notch at the bottom of the knob.
Then gently pushing in and up???? the knob should release from the shaft.
You will need a screwdriver from an eye glass repair kit. Or it's equal. Size wise.
Ive got a picture of what the inside looks like but my computers not co-operating. If you go to e-bay and type in "1949 Dodge dash knobs" it should bring it up. They we be shiny chrome.
I sourced this info from the PD18 forum. The person that posted it used an earlier model plastic knob to demonstrate. The process is the same for mine.Ive got to scrounge to find one of my tiny screw drivers. Maybe tomorrow.

Torchie