Elegant decay aka the "Ratty Caddy."

[Torchie]

HA, HA, love to know the story on that shredded spare tire [cl

Indeed zz. I was just preoccupied with finding the full set of 53 Wheel covers.
Fodder for build funds.[cl

Torchie, I've been using straight linseed oil on my 31 and it was intentionally rusted when I built it. Besides the smell, I have no problems with it. I do it about 3 times a year. Very easy to apply. I do it with a shop cloth and make sure you cover it all and rub it in. Then come back thru with dry cloth and take the excess off. Down here it will dry within an hour or so and you can make it shine a little with some buffing. Mines not all that smooth so I skip that part...
Im fixing to do mine again. I'll post before and after shots somewhere.

That seems to be the product of choice Smallfoot.
Mrs T even suggested adding a bit of Beeswax to it. Hmmm.
Not like I don't have about 50 LBS of it here.
We will see.
Any one else care to share what they use. If anything?
Thanks.
Torchie

 

[smallfoot]

Indeed zz. I was just preoccupied with finding the full set of 53 Wheel covers.
Fodder for build funds.[cl



That seems to be the product of choice Smallfoot.
Mrs T even suggested adding a bit of Beeswax to it. Hmmm.
Not like I don't have about 50 LBS of it here.
We will see.
Any one else care to share what they use. If anything?
Thanks.
Torchie

I used beeswax mixed in for a while, but couldn't see any difference in look or time it lasted...

 

[Torchie]

I used beeswax mixed in for a while, but couldn't see any difference in look or time it lasted...

Thanks for that info. Smallfoot.
Torchie

 

[Bamamav]

Just make sure not to dispose of any linseed soaked rags without completely drying them first. That stuff will self ignite. Ryan on the HAMB like to have lost his shop on account of them

 

[Torchie]

Just make sure not to dispose of any linseed soaked rags without completely drying them first. That stuff will self ignite. Ryan on the HAMB like to have lost his shop on account of them

Yep Bama. Highly flammable. Ive used it for years when i was buying and selling antique furniture. I never throw any shop rags in the trash.
I lay them outside the shop until there are good and vented.
Just one more reason to look hard at the Popys Patina. If i do anything at all.
Thanks for the reminder though.
Torchie

 

[charliebob]

Here is a link to experiments I did a while back.

http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38490

FWIW, My preference would be to initially go over it with CLR with a medium Scotch bride pad on a random orbital sander. It really brings out color under the rust. After that, I prefer PB Blaster sprayed on with excess wiped off. Easy and fast. Treat every few months. If you prefer shiney patina, this is not for you!

 

[Torchie]

Thanks for the info charliebob.
Ill have to revisit your thread.
Torchie

 

[DozerII]

Really cool car Torchie, on the Dodge I use DexIII ATF about three times a year.

 

[05snopro440]

I've tried a few different things and seen other products I haven't tried.

I was at the Goodguys show in Spokane in 2014, there was a sweet 55 Chevy Pickup (photos attached) that was done with Linseed Oil. I don't know what went wrong, it looked sweet from afar but there was dust stuck to it.

For what I've tried:
1. CLR and a scotch Brite - Works great to remove surface rust and oxidation as a first step and bring a lot of life and colour back.
2. Wet Sanding - Works great in areas with corrosion over paint to really bring back the paint.
3. Power polishing - The key is to use a product that doesn't turn white or cloudy (usually something polymer-based). I found this worked well on my truck, but eventually the sheen and protection faded and gave a chalky appearance, especially on bare metal areas.
4. Patina Sauce - A relatively new product and not cheap, but it works great. It is oil-based, but they give instructions for if you want to remove it. You're supposed to have to apply it a couple times a year, and it gave my truck a nice sheen, got rid of the chalkiness, and really deepened the colour. I'm a fan so far. Water beads right off.

Other products I've seen but haven't tried:
-Eastwood Patina Preserver - Kind of like a clear coat. You mask the car, spray it on, but it needs reapplication as well.
-Linseed oil - Haven't been pleased with the look on vehicles I've seen that have had it done.
-Clear coat - Expecting good adhesion to old patina is a recipe for a repaint in my opinion.

 

[lowbudget50]

How did I miss this????!!!!???? Beautiful!!!!

 

[Torchie]

I've tried a few different things and seen other products I haven't tried.

I was at the Goodguys show in Spokane in 2014, there was a sweet 55 Chevy Pickup that was done with Linseed Oil. I don't know what went wrong, it looked sweet from afar but there was dust stuck to it.

For what I've tried:
1. CLR and a scotch Brite - Works great to remove surface rust and oxidation as a first step and bring a lot of life and colour back.
2. Wet Sanding - Works great in areas with corrosion over paint to really bring back the paint.
3. Power polishing - The key is to use a product that doesn't turn white or cloudy (usually something polymer-based). I found this worked well on my truck, but eventually the sheen and protection faded and gave a chalky appearance, especially on bare metal areas.
4. Patina Sauce - A relatively new product and not cheap, but it works great. It is oil-based, but they give instructions for if you want to remove it. You're supposed to have to apply it a couple times a year, and it gave my truck a nice sheen, got rid of the chalkiness, and really deepened the colour. I'm a fan so far. Water beads right off.

Other products I've seen but haven't tried:
-Eastwood Patina Preserver - Kind of like a clear coat. You mask the car, spray it on, but it needs reapplication as well.
-Linseed oil - Haven't been pleased with the look on vehicles I've seen that have had it done.
-Clear coat - Expecting good adhesion to old patina is a recipe for a repaint in my opinion.

Thanks snopro.
Ive researched the patina sauce. Not sure i dig all the warnings that come with it though.
Linseed oil does seems to attract dust. It used to do that on antique furniture too.
I agree about the clear coat. It is also why i asked about the Popys patina as it seems just like a clear coat to me.
I seen or heard of people using everything from motor oil to WD 40.
I dont think im going the CLR route as i dont want that much work.
Much to ponder.
Ive got Mrs T and one of my daughters( she who owns a commercial seeing machine) lined up to help with the interior. Been looking at possibilities for fabric.
The car will be delivered on Weds due to the fact that Monday and Tuesday are booked with Drs appts. The start of my physical therapy as well as the first test fitment of my new leg.
Suddenly I’m busy.
Torchie
I will just leave it as is for now.

 

[Torchie]

How did I miss this????!!!!???? Beautiful!!!!

Lol. Just too much going on to keep track of it all.
Good to hear from another Cadillac fan. LB.����
Torchie

 

[05snopro440]

Thanks snopro.
Ive researched the patina sauce. Not sure i dig all the warnings that come with it though.
Linseed oil does seems to attract dust. It used to do that on antique furniture too.
I agree about the clear coat. It is also why i asked about the Popys patina as it seems just like a clear coat to me.
I seen or heard of people using everything from motor oil to WD 40.
I dont think im going the CLR route as i dont want that much work.����
Much to ponder��.
Ive got Mrs T and one of my daughters( she who owns a commercial seeing machine) lined up to help with the interior. Been looking at possibilities for fabric.
The car will be delivered on Weds due to the fact that Monday and Tuesday are booked with Drs appts. The start of my physical therapy as well as the first test fitment of my new leg.
Suddenly I’m busy.
Torchie
I will just leave it as is for now.

What warnings for the patina sauce are you worried about?

Any kind of initial wash like CLR (Comet is something others use) is a really important first step to get it cleaned and get the oxidation off.

To be honest, if you think the CLR part of it is too much work I suggest you just leave it alone. Not to be rude, but that has been the easiest part of patina care on my stuff and important to getting lasting protection. Just my experience, though.

 

[Torchie]

What warnings for the patina sauce are you worried about?

Any kind of initial wash like CLR (Comet is something others use) is a really important first step to get it cleaned and get the oxidation off.

To be honest, if you think the CLR part of it is too much work I suggest you just leave it alone. Not to be rude, but that has been the easiest part of patina care on my stuff and important to getting lasting protection. Just my experience, though.

LOL. Why would I think you rude. snopro.
After watching videos and reading for 3 days about patina. How to get it. How to treat it. How to maintain it. I've come to realize that some of these people spend more time and effort on it then I ever did with a shiny car.
I am sure that once we reach that point, some sort of treatment will happen.
As far as the Secret sauce goes ( Big Boys is 1000 island dressing for the most part) what I don't like is paying top dollar for something that is mostly $10 worth of linseed oil any ways. The whole "Danger. Danger. Highly flammable warnings they have turn me off. The stuff is probably toxic as heck, too.
I went thru enough of high priced products while working on that boat. And none of them will ever live up to the hype from their companies. JMHO.
Plus with both my elbows and one knee swollen up like grapefruits( Chronic Bursitis) right now. The thought of having to sand/scrub the Rust off of the Titanic leaves me ready to run ( well, limp.) for the bathroom.
Once old Ratty gets here on Weds. I will have more time to really give her the once over and see what's what.
AS always. Thanks for all the comments and info. I may not use any of it right now but I have it filed for future use.
Keep on keeping on...
Torchie

 

[Torchie]

One more question in regards to the CLR treatment.
Do i have to worry about getting it on the chrome or stainless steel. Does it stain that?
I can see using comet as you would have mote control over where it goes.
Also. Has any used a brass pot scrubber instead of a scratchy pad?
Thanks for the replys.
Torchie

 

[Torchie]

Just watched a guy do his truck in Flood Penetrol.
Absolutely no preparation other then a good wash.
He claims hes been using it for years and it dries as hard as nails.
I think it was Hooligan hot rods.
Interesting.
Torchie

 

[charliebob]

One more question in regards to the CLR treatment.
Do i have to worry about getting it on the chrome or stainless steel. Does it stain that?
I can see using comet as you would have mote control over where it goes.
Also. Has any used a brass pot scrubber instead of a scratchy pad?
Thanks for the replys.
Torchie

CLR says it can be used on chrome and stainless. After all it is a bathroom cleaner. I haven’t noticed any problems

A brass pot scrubber might leave scratches. CLR is easy to apply with a random orbital sander with fine or medium scotch brite pad. Messy but easy! Brings out a lot of original paint color. Makes a messy slurry that can be wiped off. I wear cheap painters coveralls because the slurry gets slung around all over.

I reapply CLR (with just a rag) or PB Blaster ever few months on my Dodge truck. Takes about 15 minutes to spray on and wipe excess off. Somewhat shiney for a few days. Even beads water for a couple of months. Been retreating for 5 years.

Works for me!

 

[05snopro440]

One more question in regards to the CLR treatment.
Do i have to worry about getting it on the chrome or stainless steel. Does it stain that?
I can see using comet as you would have mote control over where it goes.
Also. Has any used a brass pot scrubber instead of a scratchy pad?
Thanks for the replys.
Torchie

I use CLR as a wash. Dilute it with water and use it as you would car wash soap. I used sponges with a scotch Brite on one side and a sponge on the other. Do a wash then rinse it with a hose or bucket and sponge. It's just washing a car and scrubbing the oxidation off, so you can get everything wet.

Even with Comet, you dilute it with water and do the same type of wash.

No, don't use a brass scrubber. I used green scotch Brite. The more aggressive your scrubber, the more scratches you will get. I got some scratches with green, and might have gone slightly less abrasive if I were to redo it. You need to be able to wipe away what you're taking off, not drag it across like a scrubber would do.

The thing with cleaning the patina to get the oxidation off and get protection is that the oxidation will return. That's why I've experimented with other protection and researched almost every "patina miracle protectant" under the sun. I can tell you that my experience with the patina sauce has been very positive. I'll find out more how it holds up as the year goes on, but so far I've been very impressed. It goes on easy, doesn't have an unpleasant odour while applying, and looks great afterwards. Yes, autoignition of rags saturated with oil-based products is a problem and have caused garage and house fires. I don't quite understand being turned off by these warnings. In my line of work, we see every day that these types of dangers do turn into fires and people.losing garages and homes.

The warnings aren't that it's flammable, just to properly care for the rags after so they don't autocombust and destroy your garage. Same as oil-based treatment for many things, like what I last used on my deck.

In my experience and research, the cheaper solutions lead to doing it repeatedly.

Patina cars can take a lot of care, that's what I'm trying to get across. In my experience a proven product is worth the expense.

Oh yeah, I also used a product called Rat Wax. It sucked.

 

[Torchie]

Thanks charliebob and snopro.
Im just being paranoid snopro. My shop, like most is full of flammable and toxic chemicals.
At some point ill give it CLR bath. The next step is the one where im faltering.[cl
I don’t mind having to recoat every once in a while to renew it. No difference then doing a wax job in a shiny car.
I looked at the wax’s as well snopro. I don’t see any advantages to them.
Once the car gets here on Weds we can get a better idea of what to do.
Thanks for all the response’s and please forgive a patina newbies stumbling questions. I think it looks perfect right now and dont want to screw it up.
The patina is the main reason i’m Going for this car.
Torchie

 

[lowbudget50]

Ill toss another option in the mix. Permalac, its the clear coat I have been usimg for 10 years or so now. Its designed to stick to bare metal but works well on almost any surface. I have done many projects in it. It doesnt build up and give depth like an auto clear coat and wont turm yellow and come off. I wash it like a regular car.

It brings out a lot of color. Those two vehicles are just easy ones I could find that I had done. Both of them were washed thoroughly and scrubbed with a Scotch-Brite pad 2 help get the stuck on grime off. I didn't use any kind of coils for the washing other than car wash soap. I have found that a good muriatic acid bath works wonders for getting stuff clean. That's what I did with my Bronco although it is not clear coated it's going to get a heavy coat of wax