Engine not sitting level

[Ford49Rat]

Hey everyone,

My motor is sitting in an S-10 frame that was already set up for a sbc motor
with the mounts when I bought it. I simply dropped my chevy 350 in and
that was it. I'm trying to figure out why my motor is not level.

What are my options for making it level?

I have ruled out raising the back of the motor closest to the firewall because
that would raise my transmission tail up as well and it is already on an angle
as far as it can go for the driveshaft.

 

[1952B3b23]

I'm assuming you're talking about the motor not being level front to back not left to right?

Also who set up the S-10 frame for the SBC, the previous owner?

Id think that you'd have to lower the front if you really don't want to raise the back. Lowering the front may throw off the back though and then you'll have to reconfigure it all. From the picture it looks like the engine is tilted backwards way to much. Whats the angle of the measured at the transmission tail shaft? If it was mine i'd just redo the entire mounting scheme (motor and trans) in order to set everything where it needs to go for smooth operation. In my mind trying to save a bit of work now may really cause you way more headaches down the road.

Good Luck,

-Chris

 

[Torchie]

Not being a S-10 expert I will say this. From the pic it looks to me like the engine sits high up in the frame based on the frame rail that I can see. You may have to redo the front mounts to bring the engine down in between the rails more. Plus that may help your drive shaft angle as well.
Post some pics of the engine mount setup as well as the trans/driveshaft angle.
Lots of S-10 guys on here that will have a better idea.
Torchie.

 

[smallfoot]

When a sbc sits in right it does not sit level except at carb base. Trying to set the correct angle only takes getting that part right. When that's right, you still have to have your 3 degree pinion angle too with the trans, the rest of it is fitting it all in with mounts...

 

[Ford49Rat]

Yes, I am talking about from front to back being un-level.

The previous owner did the motor mounts.

I am also being told by others that the motor needs to be moved
back a good 6 inches towards the firewall. That shouldn't be too big
of a hassel and neither should cutting the mounts and remounting it.

The question I have is, when I do this, do I need to mount the motor
completely level?

The next question I have is, while I agree the motor/trans needs to be lowered
some, how is that possible with the crossmember that supports the trans is
there? The trans rests right on top of it and can't be lowered.

The tailshaft of the trans is maybe 20 degrees higher than the rear end
where the pinion goes. So it would make sense that the trans needs to
be lowered to be even with the rear end, but maybe a slight angle like it
is now wouldn't hurt. I don't know.

 

[Sam_Fear]

Is that still a 2 piece drive shaft?

Put a level on the carb base. When that is level the motor will be at 3˚ incline. (I think thats right) It looks like you have plenty of room to lower the trans too.

Take a pic from underneath so we can see better what you're working with.

 

[Ford49Rat]

Is that still a 2 piece drive shaft?

Put a level on the carb base. When that is level the motor will be at 3˚ incline. (I think thats right) It looks like you have plenty of room to lower the trans too.

Take a pic from underneath so we can see better what you're working with.

No it's no longer a 2 piece drive shaft after I shortened the frame. After
I get everything sitting and mounted exactly where it needs to be, I'm
getting one cut to size. In the next couple of days I'll get some more pictures.

 

[1952B3b23]

Here's a PDF document that I found real helpful when setting up my driveline:

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf

Also if you go to the transmission section of this forum you'll find a thread started by me called,"transmission angle/pinion angle". It's a short thread with some good info on setup. I actually called a driveline shop and talked with the guy on how to properly do it, his answer is in that thread.

I also believe that Sam Fear is correct. If the carb base is level that puts the engine at a 2-3 degree incline. Good luck.

-Chris

 

[Ford49Rat]

Ok everyone here's a quick update.

I haven't had time to do any changes to the motor or trans, but today we planned out what
we are going to be doing next weekend. We are definitely going to pull the motor and trans
and cut the current motor mounts off and make new ones.
I'm taking everyone's advice and moving the motor and trans back closer to the firewall and
lowering it an inch or two as well.

I was able to get a closer pic of the mounts like they are now.

 

[snowtiger_40]

looks to me like the wrong system was used....tall block mounts, plus the thick channel iron probably add an unnecessary 3 inches height to the front of that motor....check out pictures of custom built s10 v8 mounts....they are really low profile.....If your moving it back you might get away with the stock v-6 mounts in their original position. Basically the original V6 mounts are one cylinder further back than a V8, so my thought is...if you move the engine back one cylinder, they would be in the right spot

 

[05snopro440]

looks to me like the wrong system was used....tall block mounts, plus the thick channel iron probably add an unnecessary 3 inches height to the front of that motor....check out pictures of custom built s10 v8 mounts....they are really low profile.....If your moving it back you might get away with the stock v-6 mounts in their original position. Basically the original V6 mounts are one cylinder further back than a V8, so my thought is...if you move the engine back one cylinder, they would be in the right spot

That doesn't really work in practice though, as far as I'm aware.

Since it's already custom, he just needs to put a flat plate on there wherever he needs the mount to sit and gusset it on the bottom.