Fillet Weld Issues

[cornfield customs]

are you pushing or pulling the weld puddle? when pulling it will have more build up and less of a consistent look. pushing also helps with penetration as you are pushing forward into the joint

 

[1952B3b23]

Cut into the weld and check your penetration. Might as well.

Good call Sam, ill do that. Hopefully ill have some time tomorrow after work to do some more test pieces with weld thru primer for comparison.

-Chris

 

[1952B3b23]

are you pushing or pulling the weld puddle? when pulling it will have more build up and less of a consistent look. pushing also helps with penetration as you are pushing forward into the joint

Im pushing the weld puddle in a sort of half moon motion. Might try "small cursive e's" for comparison. Thanks for the comment.

-Chris

 

[endicott_jb]

Hey B3b23, you asked how we can tell that you're moving too fast. The answer to that is really easy. Your welds lack consistency. You start out pretty good, the bead looks tight but then it's like all hell breaks loose and either you get antsy to have it done, like your hand is on fire or somethin. You can always stop to let the weld cool down and when you start back up, start ahead of the original bead, work your way back into the original bead and then move forward. One thing I have found that works wonders, is hold the stinger in a fashion that feels natural. Ie, if you are looking at the plates you are welding from in front of it, hold the stinger sideways and move left to right or right to left. Also, depending on your light source( mine sucks in my shop) turn your welding hood down a bit so you can actually see the bead. When I get a chance, I'll try to snap a picture of one of my better beads.

 

[26Troadster]

Why hasn't anyone even mentioned his Argon/CO2 mix setting? I know that most machines want 18cfm max. But then again, I don't know Millers.

most of the time i run my gas wide open, but i use the mig with v71 .045 flux core wire with 75/25 to back fill holes so they can be drilled and tapped.

 

[1952B3b23]

Hey B3b23, you asked how we can tell that you're moving too fast. The answer to that is really easy. Your welds lack consistency. You start out pretty good, the bead looks tight but then it's like all hell breaks loose and either you get antsy to have it done, like your hand is on fire or somethin. You can always stop to let the weld cool down and when you start back up, start ahead of the original bead, work your way back into the original bead and then move forward. One thing I have found that works wonders, is hold the stinger in a fashion that feels natural. Ie, if you are looking at the plates you are welding from in front of it, hold the stinger sideways and move left to right or right to left. Also, depending on your light source( mine sucks in my shop) turn your welding hood down a bit so you can actually see the bead. When I get a chance, I'll try to snap a picture of one of my better beads.

Thanks endicott, i appreciate the tips. Its funny that you say that it looks like i get antsy to have the weld done, you're right i do. I need to teach my self to be more patient. At the beginning im alright but towards the middle/end i lose my patients. I do have the shade turned all the way down on my auto darkening helmet but i still feel like i cant really see what the heck im doing. The lighting in my shop isnt the greatest so i may invest in one of those lights that clip on to the MIG gun, that should help. As for welding postion i usually always weld right to left and try to be in a natural position. I think the root of my problem is that i lose my patients and poor lighting.

Thanks again,

-Chris

 

[endicott_jb]

Patience grasshopper

The biggest thing is patience. You have to have a lot of it, especially if you're doing really thin sheet metal. If you're having trouble seeing the arc, try to turn the stinger sideways a little like a 45 degree angle. That may help. It's so much easier to just show someone what you're trying to explain but I think you're starting to get the hang of it. Keep practicing on scrap metal until you feel comfortable enough to actually weld on something that matters.

 

[1952B3b23]

The biggest thing is patience. You have to have a lot of it, especially if you're doing really thin sheet metal. If you're having trouble seeing the arc, try to turn the stinger sideways a little like a 45 degree angle. That may help. It's so much easier to just show someone what you're trying to explain but I think you're starting to get the hang of it. Keep practicing on scrap metal until you feel comfortable enough to actually weld on something that matters.

I understand what you are trying to say by turning the stinger sideways a little, i can picture it in my head. Yea ill have to work on my patients a bit but i usually dont make such crappy welds as in Post #1. I was getting frustrated cause i was having a hard time figuring out where i was going wrong. The welds in Post #13 are more like my usual welds, decent but definitely not perfect. Thats why i appreciate the critiquing so that i can get better.

Thanks,

-Chris

 

[Old Iron]

Here's the best thing you can do for yourself.
Go to your local Miller dealer and buy one of these cups for your welder. The smaller cone will let you see everything easier [

The cone on the left is the factory one
The cone on the right is the slimline model

 

[1952B3b23]

That's pretty cool Old Iron, never even heard of those.

-Chris

 

[maverickmk]

Does the smaller cup help with the shielding gas? More concentrated, maybe? [S

 

[Bonehead]

Does the smaller cup help with the shielding gas? More concentrated, maybe? [S

No, the gas is the same, but you can see around it better, and get into tighter places.

 

[Old Iron]

No, the gas is the same, but you can see around it better, and get into tighter places.

Actually it does help especially on a windy day.
I do a lot of repair work on semi car haulers and I do it all outside.
I used to use the factory cup. I experienced trouble with the wind blowing the shielding gas away from my welds without running the flow almost wide open
I found these at Scott Gross Co. I bought one just so I could get into tight places and found an add benefit, the cup does concentrate the gas in a tighter area and I only have to run the flow between 20 to 30 on a windy day now.
The cup paid for itself within the first hour of use

 

[Bonehead]

I usually turn the gas up for outdoors, but the small tip I use seems to be the same.

 

[Old Iron]

The most important part is being able to see around it better

 

[1952B3b23]

Actually it does help especially on a windy day.
I do a lot of repair work on semi car haulers and I do it all outside.
I used to use the factory cup. I experienced trouble with the wind blowing the shielding gas away from my welds without running the flow almost wide open
I found these at Scott Gross Co. I bought one just so I could get into tight places and found an add benefit, the cup does concentrate the gas in a tighter area and I only have to run the flow between 20 to 30 on a windy day now.
The cup paid for itself within the first hour of use

It makes sense that the smaller cup will help with the shielding gas blowing away in the wind. The smaller diameter of the cup will accelerate the flow of the gas and provide better coverage of the weld. This is because the cross sectional area of the cup is smaller. Hence why you can now run your flow rate at "20-30" CFH instead of having to go wide open on a windy day. Thanks for telling me about these.

-Chris