Frame Mounted Brake Booster / Cly

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Couper

Well-known member
RRR Supportor
Joined
Aug 26, 2020
Messages
1,397
Location
Northern NJ
Forgot a few things I learned......arrg.

On my frame mounted brake booster..... see pic. Are the front brakes plumbed to the port furthest from the can?

1735666215007.png


Thanks!
 
Normally yes, the port nearest the firewall goes to the front brake lines. Did your "kit" come with a proportioning valve? If it did, and there are instructions with the proportioning valve that tell you differently, follow the directions.
 
Hey Gene, No Valve with the kit but I just installed a prop valve in the rear brake line. I'm confused (again lol) on the front / rear reservoir. Its frame mounted and backwards so we'll talk closer to the can or mount. The reservoir closest to the can is the small of the two and I think Jason at P&J's told me larger res is for the front brakes so that would be closest to the can (smaller) rear, farthest from the can (larger) front. I snooped around on the "pork" and everyone says something different and geezzze I won't ask. LOL. I'm gona check in with Jason after the holiday. I bent up some nice runs today but just made them longer at the master so I can tie in either way. I do also have the residual valves as well.
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I was under the impression that the reason for the two different volume reservoirs was that as front discs wore the fluid would end up in the calipers. the rears should not use as much fluid because the rears would get adjusted and only have the same amount of piston travel in the wheel cylinders. I also thought that the piston size in the master was the same front and rear. If both reservoirs are the same it shouldn't matter which is front or rear.
 
I was told that the front reservoir was larger and for the front disc brakes....disc calipers hold more fluid than the small drum brake cylinders. I'm gona just double check with Pete & Jakes to confirm what Gene is thinking. I don't want to have to redo the lines. Right now they are long at the master so I can tie them in either way. I also need to secure some emergency brake cables and decide where I need to weld the brackets to the frame.... I can't find any diagrams worth a nickle online. I have another question but need to locate a picture......next post. I did talk to Scott today Kenny.....he's going to see how he does with a bid he has in on another carb. We'll be in-touch...thanks for the lead!
 
Question for you guys.... I have a brake line running from the right to left frame rail and am using thru the frame fittings a ni-cooper 3/16 line. I'm not sure who but one of you guys was concerned bout that line being unsupported, and that it would vibrate and break. That I don't need. If it's a concern I can weld a piece of upside down 1" wide c channel from rail to rail and secure it with a couple hold down clamps. Let me know what you think. Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF6878.JPG
    DSCF6878.JPG
    5.9 MB
  • DSCF6875.JPG
    DSCF6875.JPG
    4.5 MB
In my opinion....
The master cylinder that has a larger diameter port should go to the front brakes (this is new information I didn't have before). The reason being is the larger port will deliver more brake fluid, faster then a smaller port will. Generally (there is that word again) you want the front brakes to apply faster then the rear brakes because the front brakes generally have more stopping power in most vehicles. If the rear brakes grab before the front, there is a better chance to loose control. If both ports (and both reservoirs) are the same size, I'd go with port closest to the pedal application end of the master, because it will be moving the fluid first, most of the time.

The word "generally" is used because it applies to brake function most of the time, but there are master cylinders that were designed for specific vehicles that have different requirements. If someone from P & J told you which port on the master cylinder to connect to the front brakes, I would go with what he said, he knows what he sold you. (I did tell you to follow any instructions that came with the master or the proportioning valve).

As far as that front brake line, I would add some support. Why would you want that long of a line to be able to freely bounce around without support and take a chance of it work hardening and possibly break? I don't know that it needs a full length bracket unless there is not another option, I would probably support it near the "S" shape or towards the center (the most likely location to bounce on that line) with a small bracket bolted to the frame (maybe one of the bolts under the radiator?) just to hold it in its position in relationship with the chassis without being able to bounce freely.
 
Thanks Gene....All that makes perfect sense to me. I'll touch base after I talk with P&J. I hear you on the break line flapping in the wind. Supporting it just in the middle is something I didn't think about, and I'd rather not run something all the way across if I don't have to. Thanks for your help. Talk Soon
 

Latest posts

Back
Top