Have you guys seen these?

[RPM]

This guy in Texas has these pretty neat frame rails. Was wondering if anyone has used them? What do you think of them?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11076820426...66&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

 

[T DRIVER]

never heard of them

But I would get a project car and not start from the bottom up. You'll get in to a lot more money but thats just me. Get a Speedway Catalog and start at the bottom and price everything that it will take to start building and you wont beleive what the Total is I mean every part not counting Labor. I did this and came up with the Total of 28,000 Thats why I bought one started and add the things that I want. [P

 

[Torch]

lightening holes in frames

GIMMICK... I'm a hater
Those aren't really lighter they are heavier by the time you add in the tube to box in the holes.
Performance is a world of function over form

Function over form styling results in a ride crafted for business. the well equipped hero of the day all geared up for the epic struggle.

those rails scream form over function which taken to the extreme results in a tragic comedy with no hero and a confused audience.
...Like coffee can exhaust tips on ricers
...Like too many skulls on grandpa's fishing lexus
...Like tits on a bull

 

[Torch]

If he would have used C channel frame from an old pickup and boxed it and drilled it

Or if he would have used 2x6 instead of 2x4 he could have added sum taper to the rails drilled it and left the holed un boxed.
Most all of the stress a frame sees is along the top and bottom of the rail and into the side of the rail by no more than the width of the top and bottom

2x6 or 2x8 bona fide frame channel if drilled no closer than an inch to inch-and-a-half from the edge and not boxed would have lost almost NONE of it's strength from the holes.
ANy hole you drill into the top or bottom of the frame rail should have a bolt in it.

The engineering by actual automobile manufacturing engineers shows that 80% - 90% of any integrity steel loses from drilling a hole in it is reclaimed by simply torquing down a nut and bolt in the hole with washers.

when they punch holes in a C channel rail they also stamp in a bevel which carries stress around the hole instead of allowing the stress to localize at the hole.
Stress, all stress, mechanical, hydraulic, electrical...follows the surface.

when stress hits a hole it finds an edge... a place for stress to localize in what they call a moment.
they call it a moment I think because everythign happens in the moment, not in the past or the future but...here... right...here

that's how i understand that.

when stress hits a flange around a hole it is deflected and travels around the hole and finds no moment at the hole.
You want stresses to be broken up and spread all over, not localized in moments

 

[donsrods]

Not a fan of those type of rails at all. Too many holes punched in them and don't like the way they are not smooth around each hole. I agree with the comments above and do consider them a gimmick.

Don

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Hey, Torchmann kept it under 1000 words!

I completely agree with him and the other comments made. Notice how they build their own car with structural tubing, but offer their front end "kit" in pieces?



And, for $425.00 you get this.....

or this.........

Some flat iron with holes in it? No thanks, pass the peanuts.


..

 

[26Troadster]

ron you or i could build these real easy. but do you really want something like this? you and i both like t-buckets and i really don't care for the look on a t, maybe on something like a 32 or newer. might be a kit you may want to offer, because there are alot of people that do like them.

odie

 

[Torch]

I took a look and I was pretty mean wasn't I
Not trying to bust your bubble rpm if you like em, you like em... it's about building your own car ain't it? not some one else's?


If you like the look I would suggest smaller holes and more meat between the holes and the edge.
Also get the holes flanged I'm not sure exactly what they call it but it's a flared bevel thing going on at the edge of the hole.
I'd do that and not weld pipes in between.
Matter of fact I'd use drawn rectangular tube and if you cut some out to make them taper... stay away from welding along the edges so you have a flexible folded corner not a rigid welded corner.
and make your seam in the vertical side of the tubing never in the top or bottom.

 

[Westtexasspeed]

Thanks guy for all the great comments! I am not trying to scam anyone. If you don't like me that's fine. And no offense to any comments above but some of you have no clue what you are talking about! Engendering 101... X0X0 pattern. Channeled steel.. That cracks me up. And why would you need to bevel 3/8 steel? we are not building a bus. When I get In later I'll post some cosmoworks stuff about retention and dynamic pressures associated with structure. I am on my I phone now and don't have it. But thanks all for the interest. And just to make it clear..... The frame on the 29 is that exact kit after welding and smoothing! Sorry to burst your buble. Go check out macsratz.com and Rickey bobby rod shop... They offer very similar stuff. Thanks guys nice to be here! No junk or unsafe stuff, I'm not a oil change mechanic. By the way RPM is a great business, used his stuff for years. Reccomend him to anyone! Just got off the phone with him, changed my business name and he did realize it was me and told me about this post. Hope I've answered any question about me being a scammer?

 

[Torch]

West texas When I said bevel I didnt mean grind a bevel like when you weld I was talking about when they raise an edge not a flanged edge but more of a bevel to strengthen the sheet around the hole. it's like bending the metal around the hole at a slight angle but I cannot remember the correct terminology for what I'm thinking of. It looks like a lip edge around the circle

 

[Westtexasspeed]

It's called dimpled. 3/16 does not need dimpling. That's for use mostly in aircraft! They don't even make a dimplier that's big enough to dimple 3/16. But I understood what you meant. Thanks for your ideas, but they are not needed. Go read my add again and you will understand how these designs are developed and tested.

 

[Torch]

dimpled would be stronger than undimpled and with an ironworker or press you certainly could do it. It's not going to happen with a greenlee dimpler that's true your going to need serious dies but I have seen it done on frames.
3/8? most frame channel up to 3/4 ton trucks is 3/16...as a matter of fact...your own ad says 3/16 ah ha! I win! game over lol...no really just kidding

I guess I was pretty hard on you a couple posts up lol sorry nothing personal.
I'm not saying they are poorly engineered and weak, I'm saying I don't like them because I can clearly see that they are heavier than a naked frame. lightening holes are to lighten...and these things are just for looks and make the frame heavier

To me, something done for looks in the style of something done for a technical advantage...but in actuality causes a technical disadvantage... is ghetto... to me...my taste... me saying I think it's ghetto doesn't actually make it ghetto.

I'm not saying I don't like the look, I'm knocking at the way the look is achieved with what I think is lesser industry than used to create the real deal.
Ive seen Lightening holes done this shade tree way by a lot of different guys trying to get the look the top builders get.
You gots the mad skillz and the hax, I know you can do better i sure the hell can't

 

[Westtexasspeed]

O yea, no hard feelings at all. I understand. They are not for function, they are for looks. I thought thats what rat rod were about? unique-ness. But you dont have to fill in the holes to gain any strength. I guarantee they are not shade tree at all. I done them both ways, and drilled the holes as well, but the freedom to do many many different looks and achieve the same result... its easier for everyone to use a kit like these. I meant 3/16... It sould probable surprise you that 90% of the top builders make these front rail the exact way! They plasma cut everything by hand tho!

 

[bob w]

You don't need to dimple and you don't need to sleeve. Those frame rails are strong enough for the application intended. Like holes or not, that's a personal taste issue. They do provide an early era competition look, which I happen to like.

Yes, typically form does follow function. But hot rods are frequently an exercise in creating new and unique forms. These frame rail pieces provide a styling form that some builders would want but couldn't or wouldn't want to make themselves.

 

[Torch]

I yield sir

 

[ANNAMEL]

LOL!!

 

[rainman]

Better save this thread, I get the feeling you won't see that "YIELD" often!!!!

 

[Sam_Fear]

You don't need to dimple and you don't need to sleeve. Those frame rails are strong enough for the application intended.

I disagree on the larger tapered ones. There is not enough metal around those big holes. The straight ones seem to be pushing the max. My rough understanding is you should be able to draw uninterrupted 45 degree lines (either direction) from all points on the tops to all points on the bottoms.

 

[RPM]

Here is a pic of one Slaughter House Kustoms chassis. Looks very similar to me.

I think they both look great and should be plenty strong enough.

 

[Sam_Fear]

I think they both look great and should be plenty strong enough.

Sleeved - no problem. Unsleeved - wouldn't trust 'em. And I do like the look. They'd look even better dimpled instead of sleeved IMO.