Yankee Transplant
He started out with nothing, he still has most of
Thanks bruno ..
How thick should tubing on a frame be ?
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saleenme1
Well-known member
frame tickness
My truck has 2x3 tubing 120 wall works great the truck is about 2600 lbs 1000 on the front 1600 on the rear.
My truck has 2x3 tubing 120 wall works great the truck is about 2600 lbs 1000 on the front 1600 on the rear.
Yankee Transplant
He started out with nothing, he still has most of
this 120 is 3/16th ? or close to it ? I was kinda leaning towards the 3/16
choppinczech
Well-known member
.188 is called 3/16" at most steel yards.
Yankee Transplant
He started out with nothing, he still has most of
so you have about 1/8th ?
1/8 is .125 so .120 is .005 less
Yankee Transplant
He started out with nothing, he still has most of
OK . I think I'll still get the 3/16th 2x4 and build it with the same Z drop that I have now , in the rear , on the modern frame thats under it now . Ill have to wait on the front cut till I get an axle and spring set up . Cant find that stuff no-where around here . I can get an 8 lug , but I dont think I want it .. I'll take a 6 lug ,
saleenme1
Well-known member
yes my frame is 1/8 the frame under most older vehicles is about 1/8 and only has one side that is where the strength is in a tube. i have a 14 inch kick up in my frame.look at http://youtu.be/FTchC8LabTs it shows how the frame looks.
Yankee Transplant
He started out with nothing, he still has most of
Hey , your truck looks pretty good ,, I may have to buy a tube front end also .. but this will be about the last thing Id get for it ,, maybe hold out and get lucky and find a 5 lug.
saleenme1
Well-known member
Thanks , the frame doesn't take to long to build once you figure out what you want. A good way to do that is to go buy some 2x4's and cut and screw them together to get the style frame you want then transfer the design to steel .2x4 "s are a lot cheaper than steel and easier to work with.
I would suggest using 2x4 as well. the thickness not as important. I read about one builder using 3\16 because he could thread it for brake line tabs and other tubing. I built mine using 100 wall 2x3 and it is to light it flexes a little, and doing burnouts it twisted some! I will bend it back and v brace it
Yankee Transplant
He started out with nothing, he still has most of
Wiebeweld thats what I dint want to happen to me .. my rat dropped a number on the to do list a while back but its done got back on the list again.its #5 now .. [cl
King Herald
Well-known member
We build a lot of frames and we always use 3/16"
You could do a simple Z splice/butt joint at the front like you did at the rear. With 3/16 wall thickness steel there is no need whatsoever to overlap and weld, and then weld doubler plates inside and out. It will never break at that joint if V prepped and welded correctly. You could drop the biggest big block in there and still have no issues.
If you are a frame builder you know this already, so I assume it is just for looks, the way you do it.
phil cottingham
Well-known member
Tubing size
I have 2 20ft sticks of 2x3 tubing on hand. I think they are 3/16 but may be 1/4. I will have to measure. I plan to use the for frame of my Studebaker pickup. I plan on it being a bobber with a small block and automatic. I felt that this would be strong enough but you guys have me wondering. Would welding a piece of rebar or flat bar to bottom length help? The frame length probably won't be but 12 ft a the longest maybe only 10. Phil
I have 2 20ft sticks of 2x3 tubing on hand. I think they are 3/16 but may be 1/4. I will have to measure. I plan to use the for frame of my Studebaker pickup. I plan on it being a bobber with a small block and automatic. I felt that this would be strong enough but you guys have me wondering. Would welding a piece of rebar or flat bar to bottom length help? The frame length probably won't be but 12 ft a the longest maybe only 10. Phil
Should be ok. If you use an x-member setup instead of ladder type cross members it will be stiffer.
phil cottingham
Well-known member
Tubing thickness
Kenny, would you explain about the x set up. I'm not sure I know what that is. Phil
Kenny, would you explain about the x set up. I'm not sure I know what that is. Phil
King Herald
Well-known member
Next frame I build will be that same size tube you have. Forget about the extra steel or re-bar, you won't need it. 3/16 wall thickness tube is more than strong enough to run a blown FE big block in, weight wise.
My current car has 2.5mm wall thickness, some local steel tube I found, which is less than 1/8, and that seems okay so far, but I'd definitely prefer heavier stuff.
An X member frame has an X shaped fixture under the cabin area section. It adds torsional rigidity tothe frame, less twist. You can see how mine is done in my build thread at the bottom of the post. My frame is built of .120 wall 2"x4" tube and it is solid. there are other ways to build an X member and I went over kil. I have a tendency to over build things.
