How to hook up proportioning valve?

[thanksbe2]

I have an 02 Blazer frame with ABS. I want to get rid of the ABS stuff and just run straight power brakes. As I understand it I'll need a regular old proportioning valve to control/distribute pressure between front brakes to back brakes.

Can you point me to a cheap proportioning valve that will work and any tips on hooking it up?

Thanks!

 

[dutch]

I used this adjustable wilwood on my cuda. Not sure if it`s cheap in your book....

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/

 

[smallfoot]

I used one of these on mine and it works good. The adjustable feature allows tuning up the brake set. The adjuster only cuts pressure to the rear circuit but this block also gives you the break light switch and it neatens up everything.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Proportioning-Blocks-With-Brake-Light-Switch,6160.html

 

[Old Iron]

This is one of the slickest parts I've ever found and I used them on all my asphalt circle track cars.
[SIZE=-1]They are just a tad high at $124 but well well worth it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.dpiracingproducts.com/lock-resistant-brake-system-lbs/
This is a quote from the page.

Why LBS does work[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]LBS doesn't reduce rear brake pressure, it just slightly dampens and delays it. LBS prevents rear brake lock up without degrading rear brake performance and overloading the front brakes.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]I am sure that like me, you have a story about a close call you had while driving, where you were nearly creamed by some idiot who made a left turn in front of you, or pulled out of a driveway, or wasn't paying attention as traffic slowed in front of him.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Whatever the circumstances, your reaction was to go into panic-stop mode. You slammed on the brakes, the rear tires locked up, and the back end of your truck decided it wanted to pass the front wheels. If you were quick to react and started counter-steering soon enough, you stood a chance of at least skidding in a straight line, but if you were tardy, you had to hang on for a spinout.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Trucks require about 70 percent of the total braking force to go to the front wheels. When the brakes are applied in a sudden stop, there's a "spike" in the brake line pressure, where too much pressure is momentarily allowed to go to the rear brakes. When that happens, because of the weight transfer to the front of the truck, the rear brake pressure is higher than necessary for sufficient braking.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Stewart Components of High Point, North Carolina, has solved this dilemma by engineering a Lock Resistant Brake System that eliminates the spike by damping and delaying the brake pressure so that excessive pressure to the rear brakes is controlled.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Originally designed for Winston Cup racing, the system has been made available to the public. It's simple to install and improves the brake performance of any truck. I have one of these on my 85 C-10 and can testify that it works great, and it works just as advertised.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]This is a photo of the Lock Resistant Brake System (LBS) from Stewart Components. The overall valve is small (about 1.75 inch in diameter and 1.25 inch in length), and the ports where the brake lines attach are 1/8 NPT. The bracket assembly is included.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]Installation Procedure:[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]1. Locate the brake line fittings where the rear line meets with the frame line. Loosen the fittings to allow the LBS to be mounted between the lines. Make sure that any debris on the exterior of the fittings is cleaned prior to loosening to assure that contaminants won't enter the brake system.[/SIZE]
​

[SIZE=-1]2. Install the 1/2- to 1/4-inch fitting into the valve. The valve is made of aluminum, so be careful not to cross-thread the fitting into the valve.[/SIZE]
​

[SIZE=-1]3. The bracket is attached to the valve. This gives the valve a rigid mounting platform to attach to the framerail.[/SIZE]
​

[SIZE=-1]4. Tighten the brake line to the valve. Once the valve is installed, press on the brake pedal and check for any leaks in the system. If there are on leaks, check the master cylinder to make sure the reservoir has the proper brake fluid levels.[/SIZE]
​

 

[05snopro440]

Your proportioning valve is the same. You just have to get rid of the computer and ABS sensors, and it will work fine.

If your ABS goes out your brakes work normally.

My dad's 52 is on an S-10 frame and that's what we did and it works great.

 

[thanksbe2]

Thanks for all the responses.