DozerII
Well-known member
Great design job on the mounts, they look like they should support the massive weight with no problems.
International L122 B Binder Rat Build
- Thread starter jmlcolorado
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rods Rule:
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
O'Reilly's auto-parts Ordered them.
Gunzenrosa
Well-known member
China couldn't handle those mounts. Lol. Are you planning on boxing the frame in?
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
I'm not really sure yet. I was kickin the idea around, but never settled on a conclusion.
I suppose I better figure that out now, since all the brake lines and fuel line plumbing will be effected by that.
Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Ok, what vehicle are they for? I might be looking for some for the trike build.
I believe they are for Chevy p30 step vans.
Part number is Anchor 2859.
They are huge. Bottom cup is 4" in diameter. 3 5/8" from top to bottom not including stud height.
bruno
Crusty Rusty Old Rat Rodder!
Looks like the mounts run the gamut from $25 to $40. Might pay to get them at the auto parts store if the shipping is high. Think I may get some for my Buick straight 8, it's pretty heavy.
Too tall for my setup by 2". FYI don't buy Speedway biscuit mounts, mine squished and cracked just sitting. Gonna get some from Chassis Engineering.
Too tall for my setup by 2". FYI don't buy Speedway biscuit mounts, mine squished and cracked just sitting. Gonna get some from Chassis Engineering.
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Dirtyrat
Got Fins?
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Snagged a few things for the rat.
Figured my fancy, fully custom butt welded, not so square tie rod adjusting sleeves needed changes before I forget.
With the disk brake upgrade on the front comes larger tie Rod ends then the frame side of the truck has, so an adapter was needed.
These are 5/16" on one side and 7/16" on the other side if I remember right.
I also pulled the gauges from the initial donor truck before I get completely tired of seeing it and haul it off to scrap.
The important ones. Trans temp, Exhaust gas temp, Boost (not as important, but fun still) and fuel pressure.
I almost forgot the exhaust was still in the old truck too so I snagged that.
Turbo outlet, 3"
And a bunch of 4" pipe.
I need to mount the cab to see where it lands, but the goal is to mount it on the outside of the frame and run under the cab. I think I'm going to shoot for it to dump through the rear fender, just behind the cab. Not sure yet really though. It's going to be straight piped, and I've driven a truck with straight pipes stack and it was ridiculous. Completely unusable. Couldnt hear yourself think with all the drone.
We'll try it and if it doesn't work there, I'll just dump behind the axle.
Problem is I have the trailing arm crossmember and trans cross members inside the frame, and no were close to enough room to squeeze in a 4" pipe through those.
Plus, the frame is c-notched for the axle when aired out, so here is even less room to go over the top of the axle there.
Just out of curiosity, and I think I know the answer, but is the sound and exhaust gas flow compromised drastically if I were to pancake the tube to, say, 2" tall?
Technically the inside space is still there, the pipe would just be wider then 4", just shorter.
Also picked up a power steering gear. This truck will have hydroboost brakes, so a power box was a no brainer.
Oh! And my ultra super duper custom intake! You can't find these things just anywhere!
Okay, it's just the rubber 90* elbow with a cheap filter. But still, one more thing "done".
At least for now, until I change it later. Again.
Figured my fancy, fully custom butt welded, not so square tie rod adjusting sleeves needed changes before I forget.
With the disk brake upgrade on the front comes larger tie Rod ends then the frame side of the truck has, so an adapter was needed.
These are 5/16" on one side and 7/16" on the other side if I remember right.
I also pulled the gauges from the initial donor truck before I get completely tired of seeing it and haul it off to scrap.
The important ones. Trans temp, Exhaust gas temp, Boost (not as important, but fun still) and fuel pressure.
I almost forgot the exhaust was still in the old truck too so I snagged that.
Turbo outlet, 3"
And a bunch of 4" pipe.
I need to mount the cab to see where it lands, but the goal is to mount it on the outside of the frame and run under the cab. I think I'm going to shoot for it to dump through the rear fender, just behind the cab. Not sure yet really though. It's going to be straight piped, and I've driven a truck with straight pipes stack and it was ridiculous. Completely unusable. Couldnt hear yourself think with all the drone.
We'll try it and if it doesn't work there, I'll just dump behind the axle.
Problem is I have the trailing arm crossmember and trans cross members inside the frame, and no were close to enough room to squeeze in a 4" pipe through those.
Plus, the frame is c-notched for the axle when aired out, so here is even less room to go over the top of the axle there.
Just out of curiosity, and I think I know the answer, but is the sound and exhaust gas flow compromised drastically if I were to pancake the tube to, say, 2" tall?
Technically the inside space is still there, the pipe would just be wider then 4", just shorter.
Also picked up a power steering gear. This truck will have hydroboost brakes, so a power box was a no brainer.
Oh! And my ultra super duper custom intake! You can't find these things just anywhere!
Okay, it's just the rubber 90* elbow with a cheap filter. But still, one more thing "done".
At least for now, until I change it later. Again.
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Old Iron
Well-known member
Looks like some good progress [cl
Shouldn't be a problem to oval the exhaust [
Shouldn't be a problem to oval the exhaust [
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Got the body mounts started. I had planned on using the weld on mounts on all four corners, but when laying on the filthy concrete last night and contemplating the plan, I realized I could use the factory rear mounts and just replace the worn rubber bushings with the new poly bushings.
Rear mount:
The bushings are a bit squashed on one side, but I'm not sure that will effect anything.
Front mount, I just placed the top bushing between the frame for now to get an idea of there the mint needs to be. I'm not sure if I should place the weld on brackets inside the frame, or on the outside of the frame.
The drivers side, outside the frame (like normal) is fine, but on the passengers side I need to pass the 4" exhaust past it and the under side of the door.
And pro's or cons' with mounting inside the frame rails?
Some of the parts required for lift off arrived today.
Truck will have an Accuair E-Lefel air management system on it.
I couldn't swallow the $2k plus the bags in one shot, so I bought everything BUT the ECU. I'll get that later once the truck is closer to drivable. I'll be able to operate with normal switches for now.
Just a fun picture when closing up shop last night.
The two compressors are quieter then I expected.
I will be mounting these under the cab, inside the frame rails. I will then pipe the intakes up somewhere else dry. They came with remote air filters. The compressors are "water resistant" but not water proof. Manufacturer says to just not submerge them. I don't plan of ford any rivers with this truck. Might be a struggle to overcome drainage ditches at street crossings with how low the truck will be anyways
Tank will mount on the drivers side frame rail. It will be slightly higher then the bottom of the frame.
The bottom ports will not be used. I will plug them with flush plugs and locktite.
The tank has one port on either end the compressors will consume. Then it has two others on one end. One will be used to plumb the air solenoid valve box, and the other will be the safety pop valve.
I'm not looking for fast operation of the bags, so I figure one 3/8" line to supply input of he valves will be sufficient.
Rear mount:
The bushings are a bit squashed on one side, but I'm not sure that will effect anything.
Front mount, I just placed the top bushing between the frame for now to get an idea of there the mint needs to be. I'm not sure if I should place the weld on brackets inside the frame, or on the outside of the frame.
The drivers side, outside the frame (like normal) is fine, but on the passengers side I need to pass the 4" exhaust past it and the under side of the door.
And pro's or cons' with mounting inside the frame rails?
Some of the parts required for lift off arrived today.
Truck will have an Accuair E-Lefel air management system on it.
I couldn't swallow the $2k plus the bags in one shot, so I bought everything BUT the ECU. I'll get that later once the truck is closer to drivable. I'll be able to operate with normal switches for now.
Just a fun picture when closing up shop last night.
The two compressors are quieter then I expected.
I will be mounting these under the cab, inside the frame rails. I will then pipe the intakes up somewhere else dry. They came with remote air filters. The compressors are "water resistant" but not water proof. Manufacturer says to just not submerge them. I don't plan of ford any rivers with this truck. Might be a struggle to overcome drainage ditches at street crossings with how low the truck will be anyways
Tank will mount on the drivers side frame rail. It will be slightly higher then the bottom of the frame.
The bottom ports will not be used. I will plug them with flush plugs and locktite.
The tank has one port on either end the compressors will consume. Then it has two others on one end. One will be used to plumb the air solenoid valve box, and the other will be the safety pop valve.
I'm not looking for fast operation of the bags, so I figure one 3/8" line to supply input of he valves will be sufficient.
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Oh!
With the motor mounts in place, and the cab mounts temped up, I wanted to see how much they minimized the rattle inside the cab with the engine running in regards to vibrations. Still diesel noisey, but I'm okay with that
HOLY CRAP!!!
Absolutely 100% better!
I would say it's very similar to a 1st generation cummins, maybe better.
I think with some lizard skin, and other sound deadening materials, it will be a pleasure to drive this thing.
With the motor mounts in place, and the cab mounts temped up, I wanted to see how much they minimized the rattle inside the cab with the engine running in regards to vibrations. Still diesel noisey, but I'm okay with that
HOLY CRAP!!!
Absolutely 100% better!
I would say it's very similar to a 1st generation cummins, maybe better.
I think with some lizard skin, and other sound deadening materials, it will be a pleasure to drive this thing.
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Old Iron
Well-known member
It all looks real good to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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DozerII
Well-known member
That's some pretty nice hardware that arrived. Looking good.
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
I was originally going to go 1/4", but figured it would be better to go a bit larger. The way if I found it to be too fast, all I would need to do is add reducers vs re-plumb the whole thing.
I've seen a few trucks run 3/8" and they had a good speed. Up they were running separate 3/8" lines to each valve from the tank.
We'll see if one 3/8" line is going to be enough.
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Old Iron
Well-known member
I used 3/8 line on the 38 Ford pickup I just done and the speed was just right.
I used 1/2 on the 53 AD I'm doing and I think it's too fast so, I'm gonna reduce to the 3/8 in line somewhere.
I used 1/2 on the 53 AD I'm doing and I think it's too fast so, I'm gonna reduce to the 3/8 in line somewhere.
CORPO
Buildin' it his way, one piece at a time...
yeah I got 1/2 running from the tank to all 4 corners.. I figured.. easier to reduce than to make it faster.. I do have 1/4" line running into the cab for the gauges.. one from the tank and one from each valve assem
I got line running everywhere.. lol
I was thinking about getting these, then I can adjust to whatever i like.. (attached photo)
Sorry to hi jack your thread JM
I got line running everywhere.. lol
I was thinking about getting these, then I can adjust to whatever i like.. (attached photo)
Sorry to hi jack your thread JM
Attachments
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Didn't want to spend a whole lot of time in the shop tonight, so decided to swap the steering gear box's. Manual for power.
Quite the size difference.
The frames almost always have 4 blot hole provisions for a power box. Manual box's only use 3 mounting points.
Later frames (68 and up) had a dent in them to accommodate the larger box's. The earlier frames don't.
Mine didn't have the dent. I had thought this frame was for a 68, but since the dent doesn't exist, I'd guess it's a 67 or 66. Either way, there are two options.
1) But an adapter plate that spaces the box away from the frame to allow room for the large box.
2) Place dent in frame.
I opted for #2 since I've heard some have problems aligning their trucks after the space plate is installed since it offsets the box.
Just a little heat, and a little tap tap tap.
Oooooo. Ahhhhhh. Pretty
All bolted up. Just like factory. Except the extra texture on the frame. That's called custom. Or something.
The bar going through the grill is intended to brace the front frame horns for this box. Need to minimize flex to allow for tighter steering.
Quite the size difference.
The frames almost always have 4 blot hole provisions for a power box. Manual box's only use 3 mounting points.
Later frames (68 and up) had a dent in them to accommodate the larger box's. The earlier frames don't.
Mine didn't have the dent. I had thought this frame was for a 68, but since the dent doesn't exist, I'd guess it's a 67 or 66. Either way, there are two options.
1) But an adapter plate that spaces the box away from the frame to allow room for the large box.
2) Place dent in frame.
I opted for #2 since I've heard some have problems aligning their trucks after the space plate is installed since it offsets the box.
Just a little heat, and a little tap tap tap.
Oooooo. Ahhhhhh. Pretty
All bolted up. Just like factory. Except the extra texture on the frame. That's called custom. Or something.
The bar going through the grill is intended to brace the front frame horns for this box. Need to minimize flex to allow for tighter steering.
