Jeep Engine Build

[bob w]

I've looked at them. They are not described as adjustable. Been on Jeep websites and watched videos of them on a dyno. No mention of adjustability. I'll dig deeper.

 

[05snopro440]

I don't know which "them" you're referring to, bob. From the links I previously supplied, all of these linked below in this message are described as adjustable for your application (the photos don't all show an adjustable rocker, so they are probably stock photos) I found three manufacturers that offer either adjustable or non-adjustable arms in different ratios, so I'm not sure what I'm missing. It sounds like if these would work your next issue would be valve cover clearance and you may need different length pushrods still.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-0501/make/jeep
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-0503/make/jeep
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-0501-1/make/jeep
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s40196a/make/jeep
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-0503-1/make/jeep
https://www.boostedtech.com/solutions/accessories/roller-rockers/jeep-2-5l-and-4-0l-harland-sharp-1-71-adjustable-roller-rockers/

 

[bob w]

Yes, Colin, I looked more closely. I have mainly followed a guy named Newcomer and his videos. In the rocker arm test video he changed pushrods when installing Harlan Sharp rockers. I assumed it was because they weren't adjustable. Now I assume he changed because the set up with the Sharp rockers is enough different that they don't fall within the adjustability range. The rockers are good for about 15 hp.
For now, I'm content to run shims under the rocker stands and stock push rods. After I get some minutes on the engine and a few squirts up the driveway I can decide what's next.
Thanks for being persistent. Otherwise I would have assumed I was right.

 

[bob w]

As most of you know, I swiped the Anglia axle from the Crosley to use in the dragster. That left the Crosley axleless. I have an old Chevy beam axle I intended to use but have no hubs for it. Then a light bulb went off, why not use the early Ford axle assembly that came out of the dragster. And I did. Made a spring perch and here she sits. The wheelbase is a bit longer and the nose piece sits quite a bit more forward. I'll get used to the look, I hope.

 

[soltz]

Great idea[cl I’ve had that lightbulb come on a few times

 

[old28]

The rims with their new bolt pattern look great. I think you will like the 9" Hoosiers better than the 10" MT.

I think the Chevy beam axle looks fine with the nose piece.

 

[Old Iron]

I like the front axles under the radiator cowl better than stuck out front.

 

[bob w]

I like the front axles under the radiator cowl better than stuck out front.

I do too. Since it is a drag car only, a little more wheelbase won't hurt, even if it damages the proportions. 'Sides, too much fab work to move the axle back.

 

[old28]

My mistake, you have the old dragster axle & not the Chevy, looks fine, I think the front sheet metal works out very nice with it. [cl

 

[bob w]

Redo on the front axle mount. Senility trumps experience. The tie rod doesn't have enough clearance.[S

I mocked up the nose piece quite a bit lower and it looks good to me.

 

[old28]

pictures please [cl[[cl

 

[bob w]

I think it was zz that pointed out that the front axle was not the best fit. So, I got a dropped tube axle with Chevy spindles from a friend, for free. Cut 7" out of it. Now working placement.

 

[old28]

Bob w, See my reply to you on your thread "I'm Going TO Build A Dragster.

Thanks old28.