Knowing my frame is useable

[32Bowtie_Rat]

Hi everyone!

I just picked up a 32 Chev 2 door coach that was in a farmers field. Also, I was able to find the original frame for it within his barn.

My question is, despite a couple soft spots that have to be cut out and new steel added, how do I know that this frame is useable?

The cross members appear to be in good shape and solid. Before I start to box it in what should I be looking for?

Thanks in advance and I will post some pictures of the frame for a better look.

 

[donsrods]

Yep, post up lots of pictures, especially of the bad spots. That will give us a better idea.

Don

 

[fuzz]

That's an 80+ year old frame, I would build a new frame. If you have the skills to patch the old frame, certainly you have the skills to build a new one!!

 

[Sam_Fear]

Fuzz said what I was thinking. Welcome to RRR!

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

Thanks for the warm welcome!! [dr

I have the 'know how' to patch and box it in but it's a different story for making it myself. Would it cost very much? any ideas?

Random question.... Would a 32 Ford model A frame fit my 32 chev 2dr coach body? Only reason I ask is because I know where I can pick up a custom built model a frame for $500. Give me your thoughts.

I appreciate all of the feed back and realize the frame is 81 years old... that's why I'm still hesitant to use it.

Here some pictures of the frame.... give me your thoughts please.

 

[super56]

Just my 2 cents, spend the $500 on the other frame. That way there is no worries and no hassle...

 

[skull]

measure

is the new frame at a place where you can do some measuring of the dimensions and body mounts?

1. what kind of suspension does it have or designed for & are you planning on running that style or have to change it.

2. the wheelbase, depending on rather you run fenders or not, will it fit?

3. width at the firewall & tail end of the car??

if you can, try to make it work without a lot of modifications like l did on my 3OlSH dodge sedan, l made custom body mounts so l could use the chassis shell valley custom makes for there 1929 ford roadster body's. we had to extend the rear of the frame, but overall, not to much to mate the body/chassis together.

l hope this help.

Later

 

[Sam_Fear]

There are a bunch of builds on here where they did their own frames too. I'm no expert, but 81 years old and as pitted as that looks, I wouldn't use it unless maybe I was running a 4banger. you could probably even salvage the front horns and the rear arches and build the rest.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

You know, I was thinking of the same thing.... So basically I could cut off my front horns at the most forward cross member and rear arches before they start curling upward. Those sections are very solid too and there is no pitting what so ever.

Correct me if I'm wrong... I could buy the tubing and weld the front horns and rear arches back on.... then box those in.

Wha about my cross members? How do you get the correct measurments for new ones?

 

[Sam_Fear]

Don't cut your old frame apart until you have the new one built. The measurements are right in front of you.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

That makes total sense because I haven't been able to find any blue prints for the '32 Chevy frame.

What is the best way to build my archs? I have the bare bones for tools... a back yard mechanic.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

If I wanted to build my own custom frame... what are my main measurments?

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

Question... Now that I've made up my mind on building a new frame rather than using the old one is it in my best interest to take the measurments from my old frame & build a new one to spec?

Can you build something entirly ddifferent or would it be a waste of time when I have the old one right in front of me?

Newbie question... With a body that has no floor or interior structure (I'm working on it)... How would you go about bulding a floor?

Where does the body attach to the frame? Is it even the body? Will it be my floor with added body mounts?

Thanks in advance... Just think guys... I gave myself 3 years to complete the build. That means 3 years worth of questions lol. [dr

 

[zzrodder]

If you're not running fenders, there's no reason you have to duplicate the original frame measurements. Working with a wood framed body like this, there will be changes to pretty much all mounting points plus you may want it to sit differently than originally (lower ?). These bodies originally had wood subrails that mounted to the frame and the rest of the structure was built around it with probably two mounts at the firewall to the frame being the only metal mounts. Decide on your suspension front and rear before designing a frame so you can make it fit your needs.
What works for me is to do a full scale chaulk profile drawing on the floor. Measure up your body and draw it out first, decide on your tire sizes now and draw them in on a ground level line. Next you can draw in the suspension, then design the frame around it. Simple huh?
I don't want to blow my own horn but search the build threads for my 1934 Cadillac build - I pretty much went thru the same process with building the body, floor and frame construction.
Have fun, looks like a great start. [P

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

That....is....awesome!

I have another thread in the body q&a & decided to square off the body before a frame. Makes complete sense now.

One more question... My body mounts will get attached to the frame but is it the floor that attaches to those?

 

[zzrodder]

One more question... My body mounts will get attached to the frame but is it the floor that attaches to those?

With the body positioned over the frame, build a square tube subframe that is welded to the body and bolt that substruture to the frame. Then you can weld the floor sheetmetal over the tube subframe.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

I found this online.... is it worth the money & would it work for my 32 Chevy 2dr coach???????
I could probably get it cheaper than the $450 too.

What would make this frame NOT work?

Ad States:
Boxed reproduction 1933 / 1934 frame rails. Pinched ahead of the firewall approx. 7 inches.

These would be great for a 33/34 hot rod, a rat rod, or shorten them up for a T modified.

Body mounts were installed by the builder, a Indy car and hotrod fabrication shop - Speed Metal Weld & Creating out of Sunbury, Ohio.

Mounts from Speedway have been welded on for split wishbones.

Front 33/34 crossmember, modified for these rails, is included.

I took a different direction on the build and now these have to go. They've been cleaned up, but there will be an area to repair on both rails from where the cross members were cut out. A bit of light surface rust in some spots, but they've been sitting in my garage since I got them. No pitting.

I paid $700 for them and $155 for the crossmember. I'll sell them for $450 as a package.

 

[32Bowtie_Rat]

I emailed the owner today & this is the response I got back.... let me know what you think.


Thanks for your interest.

I'm not overly familiar with early Chevy products/frames, but I have some info that might help. I believe the width of the Chevy frame at the rear framehorns was around 42.5" from outside to outside. A 33/34 Ford frame is 44" outside to outside. Of course, since these are only frame rails, you could narrow them the extra bit if needed.

Since it seems like you're planning on channeling the car, you'll need to build your own subframe anyways, so the slightly curved shape of the Ford frame shouldn't matter. You'll see that the kick up in the rear of the 33/34 Frame works pretty well with channeled cars, as the rear already has a kickup to help get things lower.

Wheelbase on a 32 Chevy should be 109". Wheelbase on a 33/34 Ford is 112". My frame rails will need to be shortened a bit, which is easy to do, and will help reduce the amount they are pinched at the front.

Putting a 350 Chevy engine in won't matter, as you'll need to fabricate motor mounts for it anyways.