MACKAZs 22 Buick model 45 Rat
- Thread starter MACKAZ
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bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Nice fabrication work on the chassis. I like the X member. Makes it nice and strong.
MACKAZ
Well-known member
The k members and kinks in the steering shaft are MANDATORY to get the rod on the road in New Zealand, and a bit more clarity to why things have been done this way.
bigger pics of X Members
Fabricated k members made from 75x50x3 box. The drive shaft loop is 150x6mm tube elongated by our good friend, Mr Sledgehammer. Its roughly 200mm long
From behind the chassis, and no, that's not the drive shaft, its a piece of exhaust tube acting as a drive shaft for mock up. Drive shaft loop is mandatory but by law this only needs to be 50x6mm flatbar within 150mm of the centre of the uni joint. Me and the old man like things that don't break....There are to be more gussets extending down from the 75x50s to the original cross member underneath
Gearbox is mounted to original Holden rubber mount by another piece of 75x50mm on its side welded between front of the k members, just in front of the drive shaft loop
Steering shaft incorporating all important deflection angle in event of frontal collision (part of the cert) No less that 10 degrees, no more than 30 degrees, To stop getting impaled in event of an accident, Theory is column will deflect away from the driver.
side view
Hasnt really changed much apart from old boy using it to clean his paint brush
bigger pics of X Members
Fabricated k members made from 75x50x3 box. The drive shaft loop is 150x6mm tube elongated by our good friend, Mr Sledgehammer. Its roughly 200mm long
From behind the chassis, and no, that's not the drive shaft, its a piece of exhaust tube acting as a drive shaft for mock up. Drive shaft loop is mandatory but by law this only needs to be 50x6mm flatbar within 150mm of the centre of the uni joint. Me and the old man like things that don't break....There are to be more gussets extending down from the 75x50s to the original cross member underneath
Gearbox is mounted to original Holden rubber mount by another piece of 75x50mm on its side welded between front of the k members, just in front of the drive shaft loop
Steering shaft incorporating all important deflection angle in event of frontal collision (part of the cert) No less that 10 degrees, no more than 30 degrees, To stop getting impaled in event of an accident, Theory is column will deflect away from the driver.
side view
Hasnt really changed much apart from old boy using it to clean his paint brush
Last edited:
MACKAZ
Well-known member
No pics this time, lanced the tack welds off the cowl and removed it ready to make up the bracing inside the cowl. We did a quick "string line" imaginary mock and found our cowl is all on the pi$$, needs to be lifted up about 25mm in the front and about 60mm in the back or else the body is going to look like its broken at the front door line. So yeah, theres actually less of it to look at currently....
MACKAZ
Well-known member
Heading around tomorrow night. Discovered today that the tubing bends I had done for the top of the body are too "tight". After talking to my exhaust building mate he had a rat(excuse the pun) around and found a former 2" larger in the bend. Grabbed a chunk of pipe today while round there to polish up to get bent. Wish me luck it works
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Glad to see you are taking the time and effort to make it right. Are the bends you are making to add strength to the cowl area?
riverrat44
Well-known member
This build is fascinating, you're going to have a nice ride there soon. Awaiting more updates.....[P
MACKAZ
Well-known member
The bends are actually to form the rear quarters of the body. The radius of the old bends just weren't right. We have basically finished the firewall end of the cowl which has formed flat bar "ends" MIG welded directly to the body with 2 25x25mm box extending right across the cowl. Where the brake booster comes through the firewall there's a hunk of 3mm plate sandwiched between the booster and pedal box. That is welded to the box sections. If a quick stop is required the whole ensemble has to be pushed through the firewall. Cowls now getting heavy but it has no flex in it whatsoever. There is one more 25x25mm box section to be made that will support the drivers end of the column and that will be tied to the other box sections. Bottom of the cowl needs additional metal because its too "short", roughly 150mm should sort that. There is some more flat bar to be welded where the doors would normally be. The top of the body attaches to that. Then the skeleton starts.[clIll take some pics soon.
God thats longwinded!!!!!
sawzall
Well-known member
This build is getting more interesting all the time, keep the pictures coming! I have found a old body that is or might be a Buick from the 20's, it is missing the back of the body. I am going to get it next month
MACKAZ
Well-known member
Spanner in the works
Two days ago I managed to drop the sharp windscreen corner of a car bonnet (hood) halfway
thru my left foot resulting in a 4 hour wait at the ER to get it cleaned up and stitched up. Now off work for a week. Another visit to the docs today because it puffed up reveals its infected and It hurts like the devil. Real clever dick Been relegated to feet up on the couch. Cant even have a beer. DAMMIT
Two days ago I managed to drop the sharp windscreen corner of a car bonnet (hood) halfway
thru my left foot resulting in a 4 hour wait at the ER to get it cleaned up and stitched up. Now off work for a week. Another visit to the docs today because it puffed up reveals its infected and It hurts like the devil. Real clever dick Been relegated to feet up on the couch. Cant even have a beer. DAMMIT
Chevord
Member
That sucks thats gota hurt. hope you back on ya feet soon. About your ride what steering column did you use? [
thats gota hurt. hope you back on ya feet soon. About your ride what steering column did you use? [
MACKAZ
Well-known member
Everything is L200 Mitsubishi, column, brake booster/ master cylinder and pedalbox. Took a lot of thinking to get it in unmodified, even the steering shafts/universal joints are 100% unmodified Mitsi parts. The only thing that will be is the brake pedal as I cant find an auto pedal to go into it.
bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Sounds like if you can utilize unmodified parts you have less issues with your officials. Is that correct?
MACKAZ
Well-known member
Seems like that's the case, well, from what Ive read in our Hobby Car Manual. I know of plenty of rods with modified bits on the road, but all rods built after 2002 have to apply to a different set of rules.Many are just downright unsafe but the rules don't apply to them.The only way to be rid of these vehicles is for them to be either cut up or crashed. Newly built rods need everything crack tested, porosity checked etc etc which all equals $$$.
For me its a case of off the shelf parts if anything wears out. Once this is completed its actually going to be my daily runabout.So I intend to use it a lot....
For me its a case of off the shelf parts if anything wears out. Once this is completed its actually going to be my daily runabout.So I intend to use it a lot....
MACKAZ
Well-known member
Dammit. Doctors again today, wound hasn't healed properly due to not enough sutures. Another 3 days off. Actually looking forward to going back. Poor Buick, no work done on it for 3 weeks
MACKAZ
Well-known member
First day back at work. Now no more hassles from the missus about working on hot rod while sick. Foots still got a mean hole in it though....
MACKAZ
Well-known member
Photo update.
Took a couple of snaps when around on Wednesday night. Ive cut the rotten bottom off the cowl and lengthened it by 270mm with a 30mm overlap, full weld outside, stitch welded inside.Bent the ends at 90 deg and just cut and bend them to get an approximate height, its got to come down about a 100mm. Now to find the seating position, got some seats to have a look at.
Anyway, for your viewing pleasure.
Left hand side cowl bottom
Right hand side cowl bottom. These will get pruned back later on.
Pedalbox and master cylinder bracing
Attachment plates
Attachment plates from the outside.
Took a couple of snaps when around on Wednesday night. Ive cut the rotten bottom off the cowl and lengthened it by 270mm with a 30mm overlap, full weld outside, stitch welded inside.Bent the ends at 90 deg and just cut and bend them to get an approximate height, its got to come down about a 100mm. Now to find the seating position, got some seats to have a look at.
Anyway, for your viewing pleasure.
Left hand side cowl bottom
Right hand side cowl bottom. These will get pruned back later on.
Pedalbox and master cylinder bracing
Attachment plates
Attachment plates from the outside.
MACKAZ
Well-known member
Crap update with no pics again. Will sort that out on Thursday.
Ok, holdup has been trying to get seat(s) that will go in between the rails. Escort, Mini, old, new, nothing would fit! Anyway was talking to a mate whos mate had an old bus 2 seater bus seat (out of god know what) chilling in his shed. On a gamble one 15 pack of Brenner Blue Lager secured it unseen, and its exactly what is needed. Stoked!!!! Hopefully between now and wednesday Dad will have something come into the yard with useable seat runners that I can use. Wednesday nights mission is to strip the seat and cut off the side off that goes outward, form a new base and weld it on, then start making a floor, fingers crossed.
Ive also boxed up and heartily tacked in plates around the drive shaft loop to the original crossmember, Looking good....
Ok, holdup has been trying to get seat(s) that will go in between the rails. Escort, Mini, old, new, nothing would fit! Anyway was talking to a mate whos mate had an old bus 2 seater bus seat (out of god know what) chilling in his shed. On a gamble one 15 pack of Brenner Blue Lager secured it unseen, and its exactly what is needed. Stoked!!!! Hopefully between now and wednesday Dad will have something come into the yard with useable seat runners that I can use. Wednesday nights mission is to strip the seat and cut off the side off that goes outward, form a new base and weld it on, then start making a floor, fingers crossed.
Ive also boxed up and heartily tacked in plates around the drive shaft loop to the original crossmember, Looking good....
