Man I need some help

[rustylocke]

I am using a stock 46 ford truck I beam and there is no travel in the front suspension. The problem is the batwings are to close and it binds the front before the shackles can do their job

The spring is 25 1/4 eye to eye and Speedway says that it needs to be 31" between pivot center to pivot center. Well there is no way that will work.I can't spread the spring out. I tried moving the batwing bracket,(thats bolted to the I beam) and bolted the inside holes on the outside holes of the I beam. Which is about 31 1/2". The problem is there is no way I can streach the pivots out to bolt to the batwings. Can you help me??????
The next question is what do I bend on the batwings to get the right angle to my hairpin mounts? Do I weld the batwings on an angle and bend the center spring mount or weld the batwing on straight for the spring and bend the 2 tabs for the hairpins? Does this make since?

 

[zzrodder]

How about cutting the batwing piece off of the angle iron bracket that bolts to the axle and move them out to the outer ends of the angle iron brackets. To flatten the spring out to mount it to the shackles, try taking the leaf spring apart so you only have to spread the main leaf out - then you can use a C clamp to compress the leaves together to get the center bolt back in...

 

[rustylocke]

Good idea, but do you think it will stretch an extra 4"? It seems that maybe the spring is to short. Also any ideas on getting the angle I need for the batwings to the back hairpin bracket?

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

The spring isn't too short, it is too long. You need to either move the brackets farther apart or get a shorter spring. You shouldn't be bending anything on the batwings. They should be welded on in such a manner to line up with the rear mounts, which hasn't been done here.

Besides that, what's going on with the suspect welds, zero adjustment and missing locknut on the drag link? Also where is the leak coming from? Steering box? Caster adjustment looks out of whack too. I'm seeing some serious safety issues here. Have you been driving this?

 

[rustylocke]

The spring measures 25 1/4 eye to eye. They don't make one shorter. Also I am curious to know if this isn't a trailer spring. I found some number on a band that goes around the leafs. Also by what you are saying, my batwings are almost parallel with the frame. There is no side to side movement in the clevis joints on the batwings so if I move the batwings out, how do I get from batwing to rear frame mount. Something has to be at an angle. Also it is the steering box that is leaking and I don;t knowhow to stop it. What welds look bad and what nut? I drive it all the time. Not mad just let me know.

 

[rustylocke]

Even if you go to Speedways website they tell you to weld the batwings at an angle and bend the spring perch. Look up Speedways part# 91339006 and look at info and there is a PDF file at bottm that tell me this.

 

[rustylocke]

I had a hunch. I looked up a 26" Trailer Spring and sure enough on Tractor Supply's website, there is my spring. TRASH!!! Going to have to order a Speedway.

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

Even if you go to Speedways website they tell you to weld the batwings at an angle and bend the spring perch. Look up Speedways part# 91339006 and look at info and there is a PDF file at bottm that tell me this.

Yes, that is what I was saying by welding on the batwings in alignment with the rear mount. They should be welded on at that angle, not bent afterwards. The spring perch ear - yes, it is adjusted as needed. Also, why are the rear mounts bent? What's going on there?

If you are going to leave the perches where they are width-wise you WILL need a shorter spring. Having one made isn't a big deal if there is a spring shop around you. Otherwise you will have to move the perches. Here is a diagram for measuring -

I was talking about the drag link earlier. Why are the ends welded? Should be no reason for that. There is also no adjustment left in it, and the locknut is missing from the steering box end. As far as your leak goes, where is it coming from? That's the first step in stopping it.

Sorry for the bad news, but you should not be driving that vehicle with these issues until they are properly corrected. Suspension/steering issues are no-go's, just like brakes. They can't be ignored. It's not a dent in the fender...

 

[BigIrish]

I hope I'm wrong, but that drag link looks like it consists of tubing with a nut welded on each end, instead of a bung.

Is that the case?

 

[rustylocke]

I have decided to redo the entire front suspension and steering. Yes it is a mess and NO I did not do it. I hate to say that I was trying to buy instead of build, but now I can say that I have done both. There is not one thing on this truck that I have not had to "redo."

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

Honestly, it's the smartest thing you could do in this situation and kudos to you for being man enough to admit it. Deposit most of that stuff in the scrap pile where it belongs and put a proper front end under your truck. It may cost a few pennies now but the driveability and safety of your vehicle will be well worth it. Not only that, it will look SO much better than that cobbled mess you are stuck with right now. Get a plan and stick with it. We'll be here when you have questions. Good luck!

 

[rustylocke]

I do thank you for your help.

 

[BigIrish]

I would just order a whole new front axle & disk brake kit from Speedway, as well as a new drag link. You'll be up and running on a new front end in a weekend. Or check your local CL, maybe find someone that has a stalled project with a good setup they are trying to sell.

Some "stop leak" in the steering box may help or maybe switch out the oil to a heavier weight, such as Model A gear oil. It's about as thick as honey.

 

[rustylocke]

Thanks for the info BigIrish

 

[rokhound]

speedway has a cool front end but if you can part it together you might be money a head.

 

[rustylocke]

I wish I could afford their frontends but play money is hard to come by these days.