mid 40's chevy truck

[cprince09]

Well I told yall it would be a slow process, and I wasn't lying unfortunately. I got a little done though. I've been fighting rusty bolts a lot. I got the chop lines just first very rough mock up on it just to kind of give me an idea of what it will look like and I finally got the windshield crank to work. I'm not sure on the back yet. I don't know if I want to take 2 inches out of the window or not yet. I'm picking up some more steel tomorrow to finish bracing up the cab. Hopefully I can start cutting next week [

Here is my "attempt" in paint

 

[cprince09]

testing these smaller pics again since I have failed a few times

yes I finally figured it out. You would think that me being in college and all I would be a little better with computers but I'm not lol oh well

 

[flatgreyG]

Solid Cab

That is a solid looking cab will be watching. I am working with the same year but alot less material. LOL Will be watching.

 

[cprince09]

My question is on the A pillar do I need to cut it like that or make it straight in line with the rear cut (flat)

 

[sneakysnake]

My question is on the A pillar do I need to cut it like that or make it straight in line with the rear cut (flat)

You will want to cut it square not angled to make the mating easier.Something to think about,If you take 6" out of the front you will only need to take 5 1/4" out of the rear to keep the roof straight.Also consider where you cut, there is a big demple in door jam. I chose to make my cut there for cosmetic reasons.

 

[cprince09]

I'm thinking of just doing 5" all around or 5 in the back and 5 1/2" in the front because I'm going for the raked look. On the A pillar they will be square but do they need to be parallel with the ground? On your second picture it looks like they aren't parallel with the ground, they look like the way I have mine right now. Is that ok?

 

[sneakysnake]

Make your cuts 90* to the A pillar.Rakes look good but be careful to much will cause a V at the cuts that make them stand out.

 

[sneakysnake]

A (R)5"to (F)51/2 wont give you a rake. at best you'll be 1/4" high in the front.Picture your cutting the back which is straight up and down but the front is on an angle, so it takes more to get the same results. There is about 3/4" difference to keep the proportions the same as stock regardless of the chop.So If you cut less than 3/4" the front will be up and more than will rake fwd.

 

[Mike S.]

I'm thinking of just doing 5" all around or 5 in the back and 5 1/2" in the front because I'm going for the raked look. On the A pillar they will be square but do they need to be parallel with the ground? On your second picture it looks like they aren't parallel with the ground, they look like the way I have mine right now. Is that ok?

Here's a couple of pictures of a 1940 Chevy that I chopped 5 1/2" in the front and 5" in the back. Just as Snake said, a 1/2" difference really won't look raked. Here's how I did both of my chops. Start by deciding on a number, for instance 5". Measure the interior and make sure you will fit in it. Mark all of your front and back cut lines at 5" making sure the cut lines for the posts are perpendicular (90 degrees) to the posts. Cut your top cuts first then do your bottom cuts. Next you can split the roof from side to side and clamp the rear portion back onto the cab. This enables you to set the front portion on and off the truck repeatedly to check the front post heights. Due to the fact you only cut 5" off of the posts, you can now "sneak up" on the final measurement by trimming 1/4" or so at a time, test fitting the front portion of the roof after each trimming until it sits to your liking. A few things to remember; keep your post cuts as square as possible. This will save you a lot of work when you finish weld. Also, when doing the back, take your "waste" material out of the most vertical area aka the flats. That way your top and bottom will be the same angles when you line them back up. Also, before you cut, measure and mark the vertical centerline of the cab. This makes it way easier to line the rear back up after you've cut it. Measure everything several times, then mark it, then stare at it for a day or two and make sure it's right before you cut. It's pretty late so hopefully I explained this well. There's a lot of examples in the build section if you need references. Good luck!

 

[chipper]

I now have that same cab , gonna watch this build [P

 

[cprince09]

thanks snake and thanks mike s that makes a lot of sense. I've been watching your build

 

[Mike S.]

You're welcome.

Don't forget to brace your cab really well before you do any cutting. [

 

[sneakysnake]

And make sure your doors are fitting properly. Its better to fix any problems now while things are original.

 

[cprince09]

Yeah I already braced the bottom of the cab before I took the body mounts off. I plan and bracing the rest of the cab before I do any cutting at all. Right now I am fighting windshield frame screws....and they are winning, but I will beat them eventually. Honestly I'm not sure if the frame is even worth saving. I sure hope it is though since they cost so much (the same as I paid for the whole truck) I need to work on the body gap a little before I brace though. My gaps are off by probably an 1/8th inch or so. I am going to the shop in the morning to make some panel clamps and to work on the frame screws some more. I will give yall an update when there is something worth wild to give yall. Thanks for all the info so far.

 

[cprince09]

Also a little teaser for yall. I think I know what engine, tranny and rear end I want to run....I have a ZZ383 gm engine and build 700R4 in a old truck my dad owns I am thinking about talking him out of. The only problem is the 700 is a 4x4 so I am going to call a few transmission shops to see how much it would cost to get it changed to a 2wd. I want to run duals out back with a triangulated 4 link and bags if money will allow it. And yes I will be building my own frame when I get the engine, front end, and rear end.

 

[sneakysnake]

The best trick for removing rusted screws and bolts is to heat them with a torch.Get them cherry then while theyre still hot unscrew them. Only draw back is watch heating thin metal around screw and it will discolor the metal but other than that it works great.

 

[cprince09]

I bought a torch the other day it's just a slow process but oh well. I ordered some clutch head bits today so that might help as well. And Dad just said I could go right ahead and use the engine and tranny, all I have to do is go pull it out, score. A local transmission shop said around $100-$150 to change it to a 2wd output, deal.

 

[LUCKY DEVIL 13]

I bought a torch the other day it's just a slow process but oh well. I ordered some clutch head bits today so that might help as well. And Dad just said I could go right ahead and use the engine and tranny, all I have to do is go pull it out, score. A local transmission shop said around $100-$150 to change it, deal.

Be careful with the clutch head srew bits they like to strip out the head of the screw real easy!!!

 

[cprince09]

they can't be any worse than a flathead screw driver can they?

 

[LUCKY DEVIL 13]

they can't be any worse than a flathead screw driver can they?

Yeah they can LOL You have to make sure you have them in the hole square and turn very slowly - I bought a set of the bits as well and almost everyone I tried stripped the head a few came out nicely but for the most part use heat and go slow otherwise I took my cut off wheel and cut a slit so I could use a flat blade screwdriver - As far as a torch i just used one of the little blue bottle propane torches and that seemed to work very well