My '39 Chevy Pickup Project

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Nice project, we have the same engines! :cool:

Is that how the steering setup going to be? I'd be a little worried about it in the event of an accident. The drag link is only inches away from your crotch.
 
I agree with you about strengthening the front bracket. I don't think the four spot welds are going to be enough to hold it. Once we get everything in place we are going to pull it all apart and weld in the extra supports and gussets.

The steering link is going to be about two feet away from me. I don't think it would be a problem in an accident. I'm going to give it a try so see how it works. If I don't like it we'll put a box out on the frame.

Keith
 
I got a couple free hours this afternoon to work on the truck. I was able to cut out and weld the upper door frame in on the passenger door. I also cut the windshield frame down and got it tacked together.

4138888565_efc422435d.jpg


4138885471_99dec617b1.jpg


Keith
 
Andrew, I think the steering box is out of about a 1967 Chevy pickup. It was one that we had laying around. We kept trying different ones until I found it. It is six and a half turns from lock to lock. The steering arm is one that I picked up at a swap meet.

Porkchop, here are a couple pictures of the steering shaft coming out of the firewall. I took the pictures yesterday while we were working on it. We ended up having to open the hole up more and we're building a new steering shaft. I'll post more pictures later after it's all hooked up.

4143463438_ac367a95d9.jpg


4142704657_dac157fcd5.jpg


I cut out and welded up the driver side door frame yesterday. Here are some pictures of how I did it. I'm not sure if it's the best way to do it but it worked for me.

I used poster paper to cut out the shape and size of the back of the door.
I then transferred that shape to the frame and cut it out.

4142707259_1757eb345e.jpg


4143467488_84caf78e0b.jpg


I tacked the piece in place before cutting out the front section.

4142710611_53987d926b.jpg


Keith
 
I then made a mark on the "A" pillar for the length of the front section and cut it out.

4142711983_69da443736.jpg


4143470542_fe20c79042.jpg


4143470980_515c5219ef.jpg


I used a piece of the lower section to fill in the middle. I cut out the back bracing and trimmed the edge to fit.

Here's the finished door.

4143471468_9b0c275933.jpg


Keith
 
Here's what I got done today. Norman drew up an idea we have for an adjustable height rear suspension with the coil over springs. He drew everything to scale size. I cut out the cross member steel and the brackets for the pivot points. I picked up the chain binder yesterday which was be used to make the adjustments. We will finish putting everything together on Wednesday and see how it works. We are figuring that we will get about six inches of adjustment out of it.

4148452681_967e111e02.jpg


4149215316_d3d2aabb14.jpg


Keith
 
Hmm that looks interesting! I've never seen a cantilever system using a chain binder before!
haha sweet. Can't wait to see it fabbed up!
 
Hey Rainman that's some funny S*%* I don't care who you are.

I got the outside bearings and seals changed out in the rear end today and installed the third member. We got the rear cross member tacked in and tested the rear ride height adjusters. Here is a picture of the suspension in the raised position.

4161393669_e399dd4fd1.jpg



Here is a picture of the suspension in the lowered position. You can see that the frame will actually sit down on top of the rear end. It will sit so low that the rear tires lift off the ground. It should make it really easy to win a burnout contest. We ended up with a total of seven inches of adjustment.

4162147450_29522e4486.jpg


4162146632_0fb9c2d6dc.jpg


Keith
 
That is awesome!!!

No concerns on the strength of the binder for a suspension application?

More pictures (&/or drawings) please!!!

-Chaz
 

Latest posts

Back
Top